I have GE refrigerator PSS26SGPASS and had the fan knocking and frost build up inside the freezer. Thawed unit for 24 hours with doors open. Solved the problem for a couple of days then it would stop working for a while, thaw, then start working again. Defrost heater has continuity. I replaced the thermistor, Defrost thermostat and recently changed out the WR55X10942 mother board. Now when you open the freezer door the fan does not shut off at all. It continues to run. Any help would be great!

Maybe evaporator fan making noise. After leaving open for long time, there was probably significant frost build up on evaporator near fan.

Hi,

Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer



• The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)



• The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater. To determine if the defrost heater is burned out, watch this part testing video

Hi

Check the back wall or floor of the freezer section for frost. Check the evaporator fan to see if it is running. Check the condenser coils under the unit for blockage from dust. Check the condenser fan under the unit to see if it is running.If you have frost in the freezer there is a problem with the defrost system and the freezer will start to warm eventually as well as the fresh food section. If that is the problem you can check the defrost terminator, defrost heater/s, and the defrost timer or adaptive defrost control If used on your unit or the main control board if so equipped. These things usually require dismantling the freezer and other areas of the refrigerator to be checked.
You could defrost the freezer by disconnecting the power to the refrigerator and letting it sit for at least 24 hours with the doors open to allow the frost to melt completely but it will build up again in 1-2 weeks and start the warming up again.

However there are various reasons as to why refrigerator is not cooling. Please check this link to get an in-depth knowledge related to your issue:-

http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/refrigerator-not-cooling.htm

Pease get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.
Thank you for contacting fixya.com

When a refrigerator door is left open the freezer will continue to run to keep it cold and since it can't cool an open area it will freeze up on the inside, to resolve this you will need to unplug the fridge and open the freezer door and allow the freezer to thaw completely, once it is thawed you can plug it back in and everything should go back to normal after a 24 hour period

A defrost system problem could be preventing the refrigerator from cooling properly. If you do see excessive frost on the evaporator in the freezer, you may be able to restore proper cooling in the refrigerator by storing your food in an ice chest and then shutting off the refrigerator/freezer and letting the unit completely defrost for about 24 hours. Leave the doors open for air circulation. After the frost on the evaporator has defrosted, plug the unit back in and see if the refrigerator and freezer will cool properly.
If there is still same problem then you need to replace evaporator fan.

Hope this helps.
Please feel free to ask us, if you have any further queries.
Shane

Hello and Welcome to FixYa!

The Poor/no cooling that you are facing is caused due to the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing/opening the panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer that is exactly the thing you quoted. Such a frost build-up usually shows a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed/designed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (usually a bi-metallic switch) The defrost heater Also you need to clean the dust, lint from the condenser unit by using a condenser brush or a vacuum cleaner to remove all the dust from the unit (it is usually located at the back of the refrigerator). If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. If the problem still persists and the above quoted techniques/tips didn't work,You may need a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem.

Best of Luck,


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Concerned.

Open door let too much moisture into refrigerator. (The cooling coils, behind the back wall of the freezer compartment, are blocked with frost) If you unplug the refrig for a day or so it will work again, or you can take the back wall out from inside the freezer and melt the frost with a hair blower.

Hello,

Check the back wall or floor of the freezer section for frost. Check the freezer( evaporator) fan to see if it is running. Check the condenser coils( under the unit ) for blockage from dust. Check the condenser fan (under the unit) to see if it is running.

If you have frost in the freezer there is a problem with the defrost system and the freezer will start to warm eventually as well as the fresh food section. If that is the problem you can check the defrost terminator, defrost heater/s, and the defrost timer or adaptive defrost control If used on your unit or the main control board if so equipped. These things usually require dismantling the freezer and other areas of the refrigerator to be checked.

You could defrost the freezer by disconnecting the power to the refrigerator and letting it sit for at least 24 hours with BOTH DOORS WIDE OPEN to allow the frost to melt completely but it will build up again in 1-2 weeks and start the warming up again.

is the freezer fan running?is there any frost in the freezer?can you pull the frig. out and see how hot it is?is the comp. fan running?is the comp. clicking on and off,let me know what you find-mike