Offset of verticle stove pipe between stoveand chimney
The wood burning stove is connected to the chimney using four ft.of double wall and two 90 degree double wall elbows at the chimney which travels another 12 feet through the roof This oause ffset is required to aligne the stove with the cgimney. It is not possible to reposition either stove or chimney.
the problem Is that the fire is hard to start and smokes badly until the fire and stove are hot. My question is thie cause due to this pipe installation or is there another reason? If this is the problem would replaceing the two 90 degree elbows with two 45 degree elbows improve the performance? If this is the solution how is it accomplished?
This is a Canadian made stove. made by LTD. Barrie Ontario Canada
Model EPA 1400 EPA # 027870 DATE CODE 04/17/01
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by C Care - Cited by 2 - Related articles
your fireplace heater, please contact Crane. Customer ... This instruction manualapplies to the following models of the Fireplace Heaters product line: Color.
Oct 19, 2011 - Uploaded by ROCKNTV1
CHIMNEY FLUE DOUBLE WALL INSULATEDhttp://www.rockntv1.com/2011/10/insulated-stove-pipe-diy .. And see google for vendors
To burn properly, it needs proper combustion air and proper draft. Draft is effected by the size and height of the flue the appliance is connected to and by how much combustion air is available. The appliance flue connection should not be reduced to fit a smaller chimney size. That is, an 8" flue should not have an 8 x 6 reducer to vent it into a 6" chimney.
The wood you are burning could contribute to a poorly burning fire. To burn properly, the wood needs to have been "seasoned" for a minimum of 1 year or close to it. Two years is even better. "Green"
or freshly cut wood contains an unbelieveable amount of moisture in it and a tremendous amount of the heat is wasted just "preheating" the wood to the temperature that causes it to release gasses for ignition.
I don't know the style or model of your Buck, but all wood burning appliances should have combustion air dampers of either a sliding design, rotating round design or hinged design with handle at the bottom front of the firebox. I'm sure there are some fancy new designs that have air piped in from outside the structure.
Every wood fired stove, fireplace or furnace has its own idiosyncrasies and its up to the user to determine what's required for making it operate as designed.
Creosote consists of combustion byproducts,[smoke] that gradually builds up in the stove & chimney.MOISTURE in the wood,and slow burning greatly increase build-up. 1/4 '' of creosote is considered a hazard. Consult a professional chimney sweep,then burn only 'seasoned' dry hardwood,and when you start or re-kindle the fire,burn it hot enough to thoroughly heat the flue; this will draw the smoke up the chimney faster,decreasing the time build-up can occur. Stay Warm!
First make sure everything is clean,from the chimney to the stove.insure all metal flues are tight from stove to chimney. Open damper on top of stove(some are in metal pipes). Open your draft vents, usually on clean out door at bottom. Depending on chimney draft you may need to open clean out door to get it started. Load your kindling and get it started. Add bigger wood as it catches. Turn down venting and drafting as the fire roars. Just don't shut draft before vents. You'll get used to balancing draft and vent as you go. I hope this helps
To regulate air flow, there are damper devices built into the stove, flue and stove pipes. Keeping the air flowing correctly through a wood-burning stove is essential for safe and efficient operation of the stove. Fresh air needs to enter the wood compartment to provide oxygen fuel for the fire; as the fire burns, the smoke must be allowed to rise through the stove pipes, and exit through the chimney.
I've never used a ceramic chimney, or seen one for that matter. I know that the dual walled vent pipe works better when warn/hot. Can't explain it real well but the inner pipe gets hot while venting the heat and smoke. And between the inner and outer wall is cooler air, which is drawn down towards the wood burner. Creates a suction by the exhaust out of the center pipe. Mine smokes up the house when I leave the doors open and when it's a low flame inside. I'm sure you've checked on the manufacturers' specs for venting but, if you don't already know, look into the thermal dynamics of a dual walled vent pipe. And also a ceramic as you have. Has to be something with your stove install or vent pipe. Hope this couch advise helps!
With a wood stove or vent type chimney it is easy, just
take a section of chimney out and insert the heater. With a brick chimney you
may have room to put the heater in from inside the house. If not, lower the heater
down the chimney.
ChimneyHeaters.com Chimney Heat Exchanger Hi. I also have the toyo stove and that combined with one of these Heat exchangers will heat a 2000 sq/ft House to the point that you have to open the windows in winter.
I got mine at Chimneyheaters.com but I am sure there are of lots of places that have them.
If it is a single wall vent pipe and it goes into a masonary chimney that
has double wall pipe, you can expect the temperature to be over 120deg.
If it is double wall vent pipe all the way to the roof, I would say that
the pipe might be under 100 deg. I guess I would have to no what type
of vent config you have.
If you think that it is way hotter than you can recall in the past, if it has a induced draft blower, make sure it is operating. You could take the vent connection apart at the furnace and make sure it is not plugged.
If you have a water heater tied in with the furnace vent. You could take
a lighter or a match and put the flame near the water heater vent, if it
blows out than you have a problem with your vent system.
Things that could cause this is another fan operating, a gas or wood
burning stove or an attic fan. Could also be due to the chimney vent
not being above the roof line and on a windy day could cause