I've discovered the solution to the problem, I think. What has probably happened is that while wearing the head phone you have probably caught the cable any number of times on door knobs, under your heal, or perhaps around the feet of a passing dog. The cable is very long and very strong — it's Kevlar reinforced.
All this jostling has tended to bend the pins and probably the sockets they plug into. Using a delicate pair of jewelers pliers, preferably smooth-jawed, gently bend the pins outward (maybe even inward) so that they once again make a firm contact in their sockets. It's worked for me pretty well so far.
The fact that some people get no improvement from cable replacement suggests that the problem is with the internal cable sockets. The solution is still the same. I notice after doing a tweek that the plugs feel tight again.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
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click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
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Oil Pan, Ranger
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED
Engine Lifting Sling
Disconnect battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 14-01.
Remove air cleaner outlet tube assembly by unclipping air cleaner clamp, loosening hose clamp at outlet tube, disconnecting intake air temperature (IAT) sensor and mass air flow (MAF) sensor connectors, and crankcase ventilation hose.
Remove oil level indicator fan shroud retaining bolts. Position shroud over fan blade.
Remove radiator support bolts. Raise and secure radiator to front core support.
Remove engine mount nuts from studs.
Unclip 42-pin connector from bracket and position it aside.
Install suitable lifting brackets to left and right exhaust manifolds. Attach Rotunda Engine Lifting Sling 014-00036 (or equivalent) to lifting brackets. With a suitable lifting device raise engine approximately 50.8 mm (2 in). Install wood blocks between engine mounts and support brackets. Remove lifting device.
Raise vehicle on hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 00-02.
Drain the oil.
Remove transmission insulator retaining nuts and install a jack stand to extension housing. Raise transmission about 25.4-101.6mm (1-4 in) to gain access for removal of oil pan.
Remove transmission inspection cover.
Remove starter motor splash shield.
Remove starter motor retaining bolts and secure starter aside.
If equipped, disconnect and remove low oil level sensor.
NOTE: Oil pan fits tightly between transmission spacer plate and oil pump pickup tube. Use care when removing pan to avoid damaging either part. Remove oil pan bolts and lower pan.
Remove oil pump retaining bolts. Lower and twist pump to allow the oil pan to lower completely. Remove the pump and pan assembly from vehicle.
Remove and discard oil pan gasket.
Clean the oil pan mating surface.
NOTE: When using silicone rubber sealer, assembly should occur within 15 minutes after sealer application. After this time, the sealer may start to set up, and its sealing effectiveness could be reduced. Apply a 4.0-6.0 mm (1/5 inch) bead of Silicone Rubber D6AZ-19562-AA or -BA (or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESB-M4G92-A and ESE-M4G195-A) to junction of rear main bearing cap and cylinder block and to junction of front cover assembly and cylinder block. Position oil pan gasket to cylinder block and secure it with Gasket and Trim Adhesive D7AZ-19B508-B (or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESR-M11P17-A and ESE-M2G52-A).
Install oil pump assembly and bolt. Tighten bolt to 40-55 Nm (30-40 lb-ft).
NOTE: If oil pan is replaced with a new pan you must tighten new pan to spec then loosen and retighten. Position oil pan to cylinder block and install oil pan to engine bolts. Tighten bolts to 10-14 Nm (7-10 lb-ft).
Remove jack stand and install transmission insulator retaining nuts. Tighten nuts to 85-118 Nm (63-87 lb-ft).
NOTE: When replacing low oil level sensor, use a new metal gasket with a rubber O-ring. Install low oil level sensor. Tighten sensor to 20-34 Nm (15-25 lb-ft).
Install transmission inspection cover and retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 10-14 Nm (7-10 lb-ft).
Install starter motor and bolts. Tighten bolts to 22-28 Nm (17-20 lb-ft).
Securely install starter motor splash shield.
Install lifting device and support engine. Remove wood blocks and lower engine back into original position. Remove lifting device and Rotunda Engine Lifting Sling 014-00036 (or equivalent). Remove lifting brackets from right and left exhaust manifolds.
Remove support straps, lower radiator into position, and install radiator bolts to core support. Position fan shroud and install the retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 6-8 Nm (52-71 lb-in).
Install engine mount nuts and tighten to 98-132 Nm (72-97 lb-ft).
Connect 42-pin connector to the bracket and install oil level indicator.
Install engine air cleaner outlet tube assembly. Connect IAT sensor, MAF sensor, and crankcase ventilation hose. Securely tighten the hose clamp.
NOTE: When battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms can occur while powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) relearns its adaptive strategy. Vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more to relearn strategy. Connect battery ground cable.
Fill crankcase with correct viscosity and amount of engine oil.
Hello skullz, this is a fairly big task but it can be done in your driveway. Take your time, keep track of all your parts you remove. Use masking tape and a sharpie to label stuff if you feel like it will make easier to reinstall....These steps are for a 99 blazer 4x4 with an aluminum pan. You wont need to do some of the shift linkage removal due to the AWD and electronics the Olds has.
Disconnect battery and remove battery tray. Disconnect shift cable at actuator.
Raise and support vehicle.
Remove underbody shield from
steering linkage and engine oil pan. Drain crankcase. Remove starter motor.
Remove oil cooler pipes and both front wheels. Disconnect
electrical connector and remove wiring harness bracket at
shift cable housing.
Remove 3 shift cable housing bolts and disconnect shift
cable from differential carrier. Remove both front drive
axles. Remove differential housing.
Remove 10 oil pan bolts, 2 nuts at crankshaft rear oil seal and remove 2 transmission to oil pan
bolts....Remove oil pan from vehicle....When you reinstall & tighten the oil pan bolts, start in the middle of the pan and go back to the bellhousing, directly across from each bolt---left, right, left right...then, from the middle towards the front of engine, right, left, right left...Torque to 18 ft/lbs
Good luck... if you tackle this job its a fun one....
even if you bought a new trans pan gasket it will still leak this is a easy repair get a new gasket and silicone (gasket making silicone) use bothe gasket and silicone that the only way you will stop a leaking pan gasket and yes its simple
It's a mess to do it yourself but not all that difficult. First thing you need is a BIG drain pan. I use an old plastic storage box, like the kind that you store sweaters in and put under your bed. When you loosen the bolts on the pan, the oil goes everywhere... I loosen all the bolts just a bit and then try to let the oil drain out on one end of the pan rather than all over the place. I wear disposible gloves but they are slippery when the oil is on them. WEAR OLD CLOTHES. Once the oil is drained, remove all the bolts and remove the pan. You'll find crud in the bottom of the pan so clean it up spotless. Clean any gasket material off the pan and transmission surface. Next, remove the transmission oil filter. It should look like the one you bought at the Parts Store. They pull out CAREFULLY with a wiggle/turn. More oil down your arm will follow...
There will be a new gasket in the filter kit. This is tricky to remove. Again, BE CAREFUL. Do NOT damage the area where the gasket sits in. It is aluminum and very soft. Patience, patience...I use a little hook and a thin screwdrive to remove mine. Put in the new filter, new gasket on the oil pan and bolt it back up. Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern and DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. I like the oil pan gaskets they sell at NAPA. They have a metal ring feature that prevents over tightening the pan bolts and distorting the gasket material. Most recommend NO gasket sealer. Ask at the Parts Store. Also ask how much transmission fluid to buy.
After that, start adding transmission oil. I put in one quart LESS than they recommend to start. You don't want to overfill it. Start it up, let it warm up and check the fluid level while running on a level surface. Keep adding a pint or so (if needed) to get to the FULL mark on the dipstick.
On this old of a vehicle, I would run some SEAFOAM transmission additive BEFORE I changed the fluid. Drive it a couple of hundred miles then change it.
Like I said it isn't that difficult but a mess. Stay away from the places that offer a "Transmission Flush". All they do is drop a siphon hose down the dipstick tube and **** out the fluid. They don't change the filter and all the crud is left in the pan. A waste of money.
Oil pan drain plug and drain the engine oil into a suitable container
Remote oil filter pipe adapter
Remote oil filter hose clip bolt on oil pan
Starter wire harness bracket stud
Transmission oil cooler pipes (if equipped)
Access plugs for oil pan rear nuts
Transmission to oil pan bolts
Oil pan nuts and bolts
NOTE: The low oil level sensor is not reusable.
Remove and discard the engine oil level sensor (if applicable)
The oil pan
The oil pan gasket
Discard the oil pan gasket.
Clean all sealing surfaces on the engine and the oil pan.
To Install: Note: Whenever the transmission and the engine oil pan are removed from the engine at the same time install the transmission before the oil pan. This is to allow for the proper oil pan alignment. Failure to achieve the correct oil pan alignment can result in transmission failure.
Apply a 0.197 inch (5 mm) wide and 1.0 inch (25 mm) long bead of adhesive GM P/N 12346141 (Canadian P/N 10953433) or equivalent to both the right and left sides of the engine front cover to engine block junction at the oil pan sealing surfaces.
Apply a 0.197 inch (5 mm) wide and 1.0 inch (25 mm) long bead of adhesive GM P/N 12346141 (Canadian P/N 10953433) or equivalent to both the right and left sides of the crankshaft rear oil seal housing to engine block junction at the oil pan sealing surfaces.
Note: Always install a new oil pan gasket. The oil pan gasket and oil pan must be installed and the fasteners tightened while the adhesive is still wet to the touch.
Install the new oil pan gasket into the groove in the oil pan.
Note: The oil pan alignment must always be flush or forward no more than 0.011 inch (0.3mm) from the rear face of the engine block.
Install or connect the following:
The oil pan onto the engine block
Press the oil pan gasket into the grooves of the engine front cover and crankshaft rear oil seal housing
Slide the oil pan back against a suitable straight edge
The oil pan bolts and nuts, but do not tighten
Measure the pan-to-transmission housing clearance using a feeler gage and a straight edge.
Use a feeler gage to check the clearance between the oil pan-to-transmission housing measurement points
If the clearance exceeds 0.011 inch 0.3mm) at any of the 3 oil pan-to-transmission housing measurement points (A), then repeat the step until the oil pan-to-transmission housing clearance is within the specification
The oil pan must always be forward of the rear face of the engine block
Tighten the oil pan bolts and nuts in sequence
Torque to: 18 ft lb (25 Nm).
Measure the clearance between the 3 oil pan-to-transmission housing measurement points in order to ensure proper alignment.
Install or connect the following:
A new oil pan drain plug seal (O-ring) onto the oil pan drain plug
Hello! Engine noise is removed via shielded cable...The shields are then grounded to the chassis...They are loose or corroded at the contact point...Rather than hunt for its location...You can ground it to the floor pan...If your vehicle is equipped with the Premium sound system...Pins #3 and #7 on the 8 pin radio connector are the shields...Splice two runs of 10 gauge Green wire to each of these pins and connect both ends to a ring connector...Solder connections...Bolt ring connector to the floor pan...Insure contact point is bare metal...
you need to purchase a chiltons repair manual. no overly difficult but the front cv drive shafts and starter may need to be removed. be sure to drain all oil out of pan before removing. use a new pan and gasket. before to check the tightness of the new pan's drain plug before adding oil.
I've discovered the solution to the problem, I think. What has probably
happened is that while wearing the head phone you have probably caught
the cable any number of times on door knobs, under your heal, or
perhaps around the feet of a passing dog. The cable is very long and
very strong — it's Kevlar reinforced.
All this jostling has
tended to bend the pins and probably the sockets they plug into. Using
a delicate pair of jewelers pliers, preferably smooth-jawed, gently
bend the pins outward (maybe even inward) so that they once again make
a firm contact in their sockets. It's worked for me pretty well so far.
fact that some people get no improvement from cable replacement
suggests that the problem is with the internal cable sockets. The
solution is still the same. I notice after doing a tweek that the plugs
feel tight again.