My steel clamps on my polypipe home water supply are underground and every five or six years they are so rusted that they break away and I don't know it till I get a huge jump in my electric bill from running the water pump to cover the leak. Is there a guaranteed not to rust metal clamp out there I can use?

Depends on the make and model

Replace your light module

The hum is caused by a stuck motor. Use the special wrench (allen) that came with unit and from the bottom turn it to loosen it. You need to run those suckers at least once a week so to constantly break up the rust that forms ever so quickly on the bearing.. And the metal that they use inside is junk and will rust out in maybe 2 - 3 years. After use spin it dry to minimize water accumulation and rust.

How can I put this nicely.
TAKE IT BACK!!!!!! First moisture is forming where it shouldn't, air leak/door gasket not sealing, and second stainless doesn't rust. If rust is forming than it's of poor quality. More iron in it than steel. Isn't there atleast a one year warranty? Don't wait! Till it's too late. Complain NOW!!!

Check the hose clamp connection on the water pump.

Most clamps are either 3/8" or 5/16" requiring either a good (six point) wrench of either 9/16 or 1/2" to remove (can rust to a smaller, usually metric size like 14mm or 12mm) Remove the old clamp and bring the bottom part to your local parts store and match it's size (even the best quality clamp is generally under $5.00). To replace, support the exhaust system and make sure the pipe ends you are clamping are in all the way. When you put the clamp back on, position the threaded ends to the side or straight up if there is room. That way they won't snag on ground obstructions. Tighten them well but don't snap them. Re tighten after about a day of driving if necessary..

GE is made by Rheem, but the market is always changing. Rheem-based serial number shows tank was made in 1990.
Tank will last as long as anode rod(s) protects steel tank from rusting.
If your tank has two anode rods, then tanks lasts longer.
That's how companies determine if water heater is '6-year' or '12-year.'
I don't have manual for your product to say if you have 12 year tank. Side of tank might have information blurb besides mandatory label that shows serial number.
You can update your water heater by replacing anode rod(s) assuming they can be loosened and removed after this number of years, which is a big IF with old heaters. Your plumber might have impact wrench he uses to see if anode can come out.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html

If the water heater is making gurgling rumbling and/or crackling sounds then tank has sediment build-up.
You can also get a baseline of rust by flushing tank and watching if water is very rusty.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html

If you flush tank regularly, and inspect anode every 1-3 years, a tank will last many years longer than manufacturer's label.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html

Many have tried same, and only a few have been successful, and at best, only temporarily. Believe it or not, I had 3 do the exact same thing last year, corroded right through the meaty part of the fitting, where you would think would be the last place it would eat through. Being in the RV Service trade, I only want to have to fix it once, and don't want to be responsible for any future floods when away from unit so I replace the tank. I've seen some wild fixes over the years, such as a piece of thick rubber hose over the pinhole with a gear clamp (hose clamp) tightened over it to stop the leak, and it was actually working to stop the leak. Your choice, your gamble, but if you decide to try a quick fix, I'd make real sure I shut the pump or city water supply off when your not going to be close by or in the trailer for any amount of time just in case. Hate to come back from a walk and see water running out the door of the trailer. Good Luck.

You cant break stainless steel cutter blade, welded parts and steel ball bearings with water mellon rinds.
Even a metal fork should not break a garbage disposal ... the fork will wedge against the side wall and cause cutter blade to get stuck. Once the fork is removed, no damage is done.

If insinkerator is shaking, then either a bearing has rusted out, or the shaft has finally worn out.
The stainless cutter blade is permanently attached to a steel shaft that goes into the sealed bearing. If the cutter weld is broken, then the disposal will wobble. If the bearing wears out, then the steel shaft will wobble. If the steel shaft is worn down at the bearing, then the cutter plate will wobble. A tiny bit of wobble will cause the disposal to shake. A brand new disposal will vibrate.
Check date of purchase receipt.
Amazon shows warranty is 2 years:
http://www.amazon.com/InSinkErator-Badger-Food-Waste-Disposer/dp/B00004U9JO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1303015273&sr=8-3
If disposal is 3-5 years old then that is a short lifetime for a solid product like the 1/2 HP.
If disposal is 5-8 years old, that's a good run. 8-12 years is very good.
I wrote tips for replacing disposal from days when I worked apartment maintenance:
We replaced disposals every 6-7 years. Some never wore out. Others went bad right away.
http://www.fixya.com/support/r7929008-replace_garbage_disposal

Your Reliance serial number shows your water heater was made in July 1994.

Except for the Marathon water heaters, and copper-tank water heaters, all tank-type water heaters are made of steel. That steel has an enamel coating which people call a glass liner.

So in that sense, there is a glass liner.
See a photo of the liner:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Enamel-coated-steel-290.jpg

Also inside the tank is an anode rode.
The anode is made to protect the steel tank.
Anode is made from lower noble metal than steel, so water reacts with the lower noble metal first.
The water eats away the anode rod instead of rusting the tank.
Once the anode rod is gone, the water begins rusting the tank.
The enamel coating does not protect the steel from rusting.
The tank rusts away and begins to leak.
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20047047,00.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html