Question about Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

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Kenmore pressure sensor

Hi, you answered a question regarding a Kenmore Elite washer F02 error on this site recently. I am having the same problem. I know my pump works, as I see water pumping out except during the last drain cycle. At that point the pump runs but does not pump water out and the F02 error is thrown.

If I trick the washer by unplugging it or letting the pump cool down for 30 minutes or so and then just doing a 'drain & spin' cycle it will then pump and drain correctly and I can finish the clothes that way. However, that doesn't satisfy my wife : )

I'm about to buy a new pump, but I hate to do that knowing that the pump actually works fine for 80% of the wash program. So I'm thinking a sensor or something like you mentioned might be the issue. But I just need your help in clarifying where this manifold is and how I find the sensor and once I do, do I just wipe lint off of it, try a cycle and see if it solves the problem?

Let me know

thx,
matt_procter@yahoo.com

Posted by on

  • domi5500 May 11, 2010

    We are having the same F02 error and have checked the filter, the pump impeller, and all of the hoses for clogs. There was nothing present, but when the wash cycle enters its final spin you can hear the pump motor making a lot of noise, and then periodically we get the error. The only thing I have not checked is drain line from the bottom of the wash basin to the drain pump. 



    You mention that there is a ball-valve at the top of this line, and that there are sometimes garments or obstructions in here that could cause these draining problems, but how do you access that area? I did not want to disconnect a hose that I would not be able to re-connect. If I need to check this black rubber hose, what is the best way to check this hose and the ball-valve at the top without damaging anything?



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3 Answers

Sorry, please don't take my comments personally. I guess it's just my frustration level. I do believe that you're analysis is probably accurate, that the pump is beginning to fail. The first time my wife had the F02 error she continued to try and rerun the washer, probably up to 10 times in a row. I ended up finding a (!) panty liner completely obstructing the filter's exit into the drain pump, along with some coins and an earring. I believe that kind of complete obstruction and continual running of the washer during that obstruction may have done permanent damage to the pump. It just hasn't completely conked out yet.

I guess I'm just looking for some special silver bullet answer to my question that eliminates the pump as an issue--maybe because when I ordered on the Sears website I was told it was on two week backorder! But the more I peel back this situation it really does seem to be a pump issue.

I guess I'll just have to sit tight and wait til it arrives.

You truly are a guru JSrock. I can't imagine how clueless all of us would have been even 5 years ago without a resource like this. It's the real reason the Maytag repairman is without any work these days.

Posted on Aug 21, 2008

You always want to solve every drain problem with your 'check the drain filter' solution. I know that is the correct solution in many cases, but there are a number of us on this board who have checked (repeatedly) the gravity ball, big rubber drain hose and drain filter. These are all clear. And during certain earlier stages of the wash process the drain pump works like a charm. But during the final few minutes it doesn't.

But if I let the pump cool down and try again later with just a drain and spin cycle it (sometimes) will drain and finish fine without an F02.

So that makes me wonder if it is an electrical or circuit issue calling for the pump to run at sometimes but not others.

Anyway, just trying to point out that for some of us the drain filter doesn't seem to be the answer but yet the drain pump seems to be working, at times anyway. I have yet to see a clear answer on this issue.

Posted on Aug 21, 2008

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  • Master
  • 5,911 Answers

I don't know which posting you're talking about, or any sensor on a manifold. What I do know is that the "F02" error is a Long Drain error code. It usually indicates you have a problem with your drain line(s) or drain pump. The following link explains this:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r615268-f02_error_code_whirlpool_duet_kenmore

Tricking the pump to get it to work some of the time, isn't fixing the problem. Either, the pump impeller or motor are beginning to fail, or you have something obstructing your drain line somewhere. Since the pump IS running, you may assume you have a good electrical connection (you might want to double check it just to be sure). The drain line that many people forget about, however, is the line that runs from the bottom of the wash tub to the drain pump. I have personnaly pulled socks and wash cloths out of this line in the past. Small garments can sometimes get caight between the spin basket and wash tub and end up in the drain line. There is a ball valve there to prevent some clogging, but I have still found items there that shouldn't be. In addition, if you are in the habit of washing rugs or extremely dirty items (particularly items covered in soil or sand), all that dirt can also get clogged and pack in this area. If you have checked all these potential clog points and still have a problem, replace the drain pump. You can find a replacement at searspartsdirect.com for about $70. Just type in your model number and locate item number 10 under the "Pump and Motor" heading (part number 8181684).

If you decide to go the route of replacing the drain pump, the following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r401845-replacing_drain_pump_whirlpool_duet

I hope this helps answer some of your questions,and I hope this helps you resolve your problem. If you require addtional assistance, please let me know.

Posted on Aug 21, 2008

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Aug 21, 2008

    I don't know who you've been talking to before, but I can assure you that all my drain solutions don't revolve around "checking the drain pump". There are several problems that are commonly related to one another. The "F02" and the "SUD" errors are commonly caused by the drain issues. This is usually caused by excessive air in the pump and lines. Which, is usually attributed to a clog, pump motor failure, damaged impeller, or loose electrical connection. Since the drain pump is the most frequent cause of the problem it is a likely place to start. I have found all kinds of obstructions in the the drain pump reservoir, and if left there for extended periods will damage the pump. In addition, what may seem to be a running pump, is not always true. If the impeller is sheared off, or the shaft is stripped, the pump will run, but not pump water. If the electrical connector plug is loose or corroded, you may be getting intermittent failures too. I have never seen this as an issue, however. If the motor windings are beginning to fail, the motor may be dragging, causing it to overheat.



    This was an attempt to assist you. Not debate with you. All the information and advice I have given was derived from my experience in the field repairing this washer and from troubleshooting information provided by the manufacturer. I personally own the same washing machine and have become quite familiar with how it works. You don't have to accept the advice I have given, but I can assure you, leaving your washer in the condition it is will result in eventual failure of something. It is not normal to shut the pump off, let it cool down, then start it again in the hopes that it might work sometimes. Something is wrong with your pump or motor (mechanical or electrical) whether you believe this or not. If in doubt, pull the tech sheet from inside your washer and read the troubleshooting information. Eventually, you may cause damage to the operator controls, as they are not designed to be used in the manner you are using them. I have not heard any compaints from anyone else that I have offered this advice to. In fact, I have solved many consumer problems by the assistance I have provided. This was an attemtpt to try to save you money. If you which to jump on the Central Control Unit (CCU) and believe that may be causing the pump to sometimes run and sometimes not, you can attempt to troubleshoot it (connector 5 runs to the drain pump). The CCU is not serviceable, and costs considerably more. I have never seen this as a cause of this problem, though. Normally, a defective CCU, or defective interconnecting cabling causes addtional error codes, such as "F11". I hope you can find a solution to your problem.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Aug 21, 2008

    Nothing personal matt, just trying to help. I just don't want you to possibly cause addtional problems to your washer by running in the condition that it is. It can be frustrating having to wait on backordered parts. I know, because I have been there myself. I do hope you have luck with your repairs and are able to get your washer running again soon. Thank you for the kind words. I do this as a free service and it makes my day when I can help. I really do appreciate it.



    PS If you haven't ordered the part there are a few more resources, but they may cost more. Repairclinic.com, partsstore.com and pcappliancerepair.com are reliable resources as well.

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