Wall thermastat set on correct settings fan operates compressor trys to to engage draws to much currant throwing breakers. has been suggested that the start capacitor could be faulty.
I have a Mach III that the fan runs fine but when the compressor tries to kick in the unit just boggs down for a few seconds and the picks back up. After it picks up I could smell hot electronics. I took off the side panel and the small round capasiter(I think capasiter?) has a big flat conecter that looks like it is suppost to come apart when it gets hot that is chared. When I touched it it fell apart and looked like it was suppost to do that. My question is what does this mean, why did it do that, and how do I fix it?
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Re: no cool air
I'd be looking at replacing the capacitor also, but be real careful playing with one of those if you aren't familar with them, shock can be hazardous even with power off, you know that, right ?
Use well insulated pliers or whatever as a precaution when disconnecting that old one, and don't leave it lying around where someone could touch it the wrong way & get shocked.
The capacitor you saw has quick disconnects on top of it, but they're not supposed to be cooked, that was the burning smell you noticed. I think your start cap could be bad, causing the ex cessive current draw. I think its time to replace the capacitor.
By the way, those small round caps have a habit of going bad, another way of mass production making things that "just get by".
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Yes. due to low rpm of fan motor in the condensor copil. or dirty condensor coil. I If so, replace fan capacitor.
If all good, check the seating of condensor set. It needs minimum 2mtrs open space for air throw. If not due to overheat compressor gets short cycling on and off.
There are lots of possibilities. Are you perhaps just running just the fan? Is the inside air below the thermostat setting? Is the compressor engaging? If the compressor is running, what is the current draw on the common line going to the compressor? A white tag on the housing should show the RLA for the unit. RLA: Acronym for "rated load amps". The maximum current a compressor should draw under any operating conditions. Often mistakenly called running load amps which leads people to believe, incorrectly, that the compressor should always pull these amps. You should never use the listed RLA to determine if the compressor is running properly or to condemn a compressor. The running amps of a compressor are determined by the evaporator temperature, condensing temperature and the line voltage.
If it is at the published specs for current draw then perhaps the just cleaning the evaporator and condenser will restore the unit if you can feel that the output of the compressor is nice and cold. Also a broken cover can make the unit not channel air properly through the condenser and evaporator. A missing baffle or large seams in the ducts portion that separate the intake from the outflow will cause the unit to recycle the cold air and not distribute the cooled air to the duct system.
If the compressor is not running, it could be a bad start capacitor or the temperature cutoff switch. It could also be a defective control board or thermostat. A test light on the output plug of the control board will help isolate the problem.
Download this illustration and then using a good multimeter start basic troubleshooting.
residential window air conditioners have a cooling system made up of
four primary components, a compressor, an evaporator fan, a control or switch, capacitor.When the thermostat is calling for a colder room temperature the compressor is energized. It is
normally very quiet.
evaporator is always located on the front of the air conditioner. It
also has silver fins. Be sure it is clean. Use a foaming type cleaner and rinse with plain water. Because the evaporator is absorbing heat, it is very
cold to the touch. The temperature drop causes any humidity in the air
to collect on the evaporator - sometimes called sweat. There is a fan
inside the air conditioner that circulates the air for the evaporator
and condenser coils.
The circulating fan and compressor are running
simultaneously. The fan motor has two fan blades attached to it on
either end. The fan blade on the inside part of the unit continually
draws room air over the evaporator coils, which are cold. The fan blade
on the outside part of the unit continually draws fresh outside air over
the condenser coils, which are warm. Because the evaporator coils are
cold, they cause moisture in the room to collect on them, much like a
cup of ice water on a warm, humid day. When the amount of moisture
increases, it begins to drip down off of the coils into the bottom pan
of the air conditioner. If the compressor fails to start or the fan you may need to replace the capacitor. You may need a hard start kit.
Thermostat control The
thermostat on a window air conditioner works by sensing the air
temperature entering the air conditioner. As the air entering the unit
reaches the set temperature it will cause the compressor to turn off.
The blower may continue to run depending on the selection chosen on the
control panel. Digital thermostats work on a similar principle but
display a more precise temperature. Test for continuity with the multimeter between the two terminals . Warm you should read continuity (contacts closed). If not change it. Selector switches The
air conditioner selector switches allow the user to choose the fan
speed. The compressor always runs at the same speed regardless of the
settings. If low cool is chosen, for example, the fan runs at a slower
speed but the compressor still offers the same cooling capacity. There
are other switches to control louver operation and other features on
If you don't here the compressor kick in after about 3 min then the thermastat is not telling the compressor to com on, or the control board is not telling the compressor to come on. The power can be traced from thermastat to the control board and will have a 12volt feed on the yellow wire at the control board with compressor mode on. From there it is 120volts the control board has a relay that turns on the compressor. the compressor capasiter can cause the compressor not to come on, normally it will have burnt wiring.
You don't say what size unit you have. Does it draw 76 amps and then go to about 10 or 12 and you can hear the compressor running or does it draw 76 amps and the breaker trips. I suspect it draws 76 amps until the breaker trips. Confirm that the capacitor is niether shorted nor open. It may be worth your time to replace the capacitor, if you have one of the correct size available. If this does not get your unit running, it sounds like you are drawing Locked Rotor Amps, which means your compressor has physically siezed. There are a couple other posibilities, but looks like its time for a professional.
You cannot accuratly check the freon level without compressor engaged. Without car running that needle better be pegged or its low. Charge with car running with dials set to max cool with fan speed on hi. Slowly while charging with compressor engaged bring it up to 2K rppms while filling. Should take around 3 cans. Get the stuff with stop leak.
I have the same car. The cooling fan activates at 227F. Only one fan will engage at this temp, the other one[closer to the A/C compressor] won't engage unless the A/C is working. Try charging the system with half a can of refrig. It'll be tough retrofitting to R-134A, the LOW PRESSURE connector is under the air box pointing sideways about an inch from a large bracket. Try and find a 90 degree adapter of some type and go from there.
if the fan motor is on but the compressor is not : if the compressor has correct voltage up to the terminals and is not operating, the compressor is bad, if ther is not power to the terminals, the start components may be the culprit, if there is no power to the start componenets then the controller is the issue.