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Re: On switch doesn't always work!
Assuming no other fault other than the switch itself, it would require that the unit be opened and the switched exposed. Underneath the button would be the actual switch. it is possible that:
cold solder - would require re-application of heat through a soldering iron;
dirty contacts - initially try electronic contact cleaner or if still a no go, then replacement;
Often the repair is rather quick and easy, what might be more demanding would be opening the case/paneling to expose the switch. Should you be uncomfortable going through this route, then perhaps your best bet would be to seek the services of a qualified professional. In considering a DIY (do-it-yourself), familiarity with electronic components and circuitry is a necessity.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
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Certainly, if you jumper the connections to see which ones turn the monitor on or off, then you can go to an electrical supply place and get a micro switch and wire it in in place of the power button, or perhaps find a type that is flat that the power button can press. What you need to determine is if it is a push-on, push -off type switch, which always stays on or off depending on position or if it is a momentary interrupt switch where the button pressed momentarily turns it on and then releases and a second press connects the circuit to turn it off. You can do this by testing with your jumper wire, attach it and if the monitor stays on when you remove it, then goes off when you attach it again, you need the second type switch, if it goes off when removed, you need the always-on always -off first type switch. .
I have to assume you are currently using the larger size called a tube type monitor and would like to have an LCD or flat screen type monitor connected to your computer.
To connect to new LCD flat screen monitor to your computer would be exactly the same connection as what you are currently using.
The only problem you could run into is the connector itself. Some of the flat screen LCD monitors do not have the older style connector called VGA, usually blue called DB15, because it has 15 pin connector. They may have only have the newer style called a DVI type. Some do have both types.
Please be sure the LCD you want has the older style DB15 connector to connect to the rear blue VGA input of your compter.
Use a flashlight and shine on your screen. Look carefully is you still see the image on the screen. If you do, this is an indication that the monitor is still working, but the backlight has failed.
A common solution with backlight-failures is to open the monitor, and look if you see any "swollen" capacitors (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague). If you see one you should replace it.
Only open your monitor if you know what you're doing and have basic knowledge of electronics and soldering.
Release the menu button (check if anything is leaning on it), and press and hold the menu button again until the message disappears (app. 10 seconds). If this doesn´t work, the button may be stuck, or there´s a problem with the hardware.
Probably find the screen inverter has failed and needs replacing. Can be a fiddly job as you have to dismantle the monitor so take it to your repair shop if you're not familiar with this type of repair.
It may be worth going to the game makers web site and see if there are any patches regarding your make of your graphics card.
It may also be the fact that the game resolution does not match the screen resolution, try changing it in the game settings if it's possible for you to do so, as the monitor seems to be struggling with the change of resolution as you start up the game.