i have icn530
i bought a replacement battey due to the poor life of the original however i cannot seem to remove the rear panel to access the battery
I have removed the two small screws on the bottom but the rear panel is firmly attached . is there a way to remove this without damage?
Besides the two screws the back lit is "clicked" to the front lit. I used a small screwdriver and carefully pushed it in between the front and back lit and after some careful manouvering it clicked open at several positions. My battery was glued to the electronic print! Again using the small screwdriver and watching carefully not to turn on the power I was able to remove it. This procedure is certainly not an advocate of Navman! But in my case it worked ....
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Your freezer is freezing up most likely due to a defrost issue whereas either the defrost thermostat, the defrost heater, or the defrost timer or adaptive control has a fault condition. Most of the time this issue is due to a fault with the defrost thermostat due to they are poorly made you would need a multimeter that measures ohms in order to troubleshoot which of these is the issue. You can access the thermostat, and the heater by removing the rear panel in the back of your freezer. If you have any further questions message me back. Thank you Rick
hi, my e63 used to do the same thing. i found that if you take off the battery cover and remove the battey then replace it, it should work after 5mins. but sometimes the phone just over heats and switches off.
Poor accelleration, stalling, running rough at idle, low power are symptoms of poor spark. With engine running, remove and replace spark plug wires one by one. when you do this you may note that the engine becomes rougher or quits on certain plugs, and does not seem to change at all on one of them. the long plastic boot has a rubber insulator at the end of it. Spark has been known to jump from this seam over to the metal tube, effectively killing that cylinder, making it seem as though you have a fuel problem. If it is really a fuel delivery issue, the pump is accessed by removing the rear seat. under that is an panel that gives acess to the pump/level indicator assembly. The fuel filter is typically on the firewall, left side (follow the tubing going to your fuel rail , you'll find it.)
I have had the exact same problem , the actaual cause of the seat not sliding back is due to the small cable retaing clip which fastens at the underneath of the seat this is a very common problem and is very trickY to get to as you say the rear panel appers to need to come off , it does not, you axs the small clip from removeing the liners at the very bottom of the seat where there is a footwell light , when you axs this area you be able to get to the clip or the actaul cable ,to which ever is broken,,
Remove the 2 small screws and use a tiny flat screwdriver and insert it by where the screws came out and twist. It is clipped down with a series of plastic flanges which can be popped with a twist in between the front and rear case. You need to work your way around the case doing the side with the earphone jack last as the cover needs to slide slightly sideways to slip off. Don't be afraid to use gentle pressure as they will pop apart and wont break
Ok, here's the problem and your solution:
I have had 3 blower motors go bad in less than 120K miles. Origninal made it to 74K and 1st replacement made it to 95K. All were replaced by dealerships with factory equipment at between $500 to $600 each time. This last time it failed, I decided to change it myself. Auto Zone has the replacement blower for <$200. It doesn't look exactly like the original equipment due to a modification which directs forced air over the blower's motor, (originals were failing due to poor design). Also, the replacement, at least for my '04, used different wiring plug. Just cut original off of harness and replace with correct plug.