Question about Sony MDS-JE320 Mini Disc Player

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3 connection leads inside

I am not sure where I unplugged these 3 black wires with a metal clamp type tip. Can you help?

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These are ground wires and can be attached to the chassis anywhere where they will fit.

Dan

Posted on Sep 30, 2008

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No power from gigabyte motherboard


Nope

Just basic diagnostic tools

First thing to check IS the Power Supply.
Then the diagnosis goes on.

So far all you have told me is an assumption. You ASSUME the Power Supply is OK.

Don't.

1) If ALL of the LED's were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

3) A typical Processor can draw from 51 to 125 Watts of power.
Just depends on what Processor it is,

By having JUST the CPU on the motherboard, and the fan on the Power Supply doesn't work; you have just PROVED that.

Do you have a multimeter?
An economical one can be purchased for as little as $5 to $12.
Available in a multitude of stores.

There are 3 main voltages to check. Check while PSU is plugged into mobo. (Power Supply Unit; MOtherBOard)

A) 3.3 Volts
B) 5 Volts
C) 12 Volts
All are DC Voltage. (Dotted line over a solid line for Multimeter)

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

The Orange wires are 3.3 Volts
The Red wires are 5 Volts
The Yellow wires are 12 Volts. All are DC Voltage. (DCV)

The 24-pin ATX main power cable is left plugged into the mobo.
The BACK of the power cable's connector; is where the wires go in.

Power Supply unplugged from power; a straightened out paperclip is inserted down into the socket hole with an Orange wire in it.
The paperclip slides down alongside the insulation of the Orange wire, and touches a metal female terminal.

Every wire going into the 24-pin ATX main power cable's connector, ends in a Molex female metal terminal,

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0002081202_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml&channel=Products&Lang=en-US

The brass tip openings can be seen, in the Playtool link's middle photo. (Tip openings; Front. Paperclip touches Back)
MUST touch that metal terminal.

Another paperclip is slid down into ANY socket hole, with a Black wires in it.
ALL Black wires are Ground wires.

Making sure the paperclip jumper wires, are of the correct length by cutting; there is no way they will accidentally touch each other.

Positive (Red) probe lead of multimeter to Orange wire paperclip;
Negative (Black) probe lead of multimeter to Black wire paperclip.
You should read 3.3 Volts (DC)

Do the same for the Red - 5 Volt wire. Red wire and Black wire.
12 Volt - Yellow wire and Black wire.

Post back in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

On another note;
Did you just recently mount the mobo to the computer case?
Did you use metal Standoff's, or plastic Spacers?
(Standoff - Hex shaped brass piece, usually 1/2 inch tall; and with a threaded hole on one end, and a threaded shaft on the other)

The Support Plate can be a separate metal plate; or is an integral part of the computer case.

IF, there is a Standoff on the Support Plate, that is NOT lined up to a motherboard mounting hole, it can touch exposed solder joints on the bottom of the motherboard.

This will short circuit the motherboard. MOST of the time when the 'offending' Standoff is removed; everything is OK.

Dec 25, 2012 | Computers & Internet

2 Answers

How to change a 2003 x-type jaguar head light bulb


Open your hood.Behind the head lamps you will see black plastic covers held with spring clamps. There is one on each side of the assembly (the outer clamps not visible). So reach in and undo the clamps to remove the covers. Disconnect the wire on the headlamp bulb and release the small spring clamps on each side of the bulb. It should come right out. Install the new H1 bulbs and make sure the dimple goes inside the little alignment hole in the housing for alingment. Slight twisting L & R will help you check this until you feel it insert) Install the small clamps. Install the connecting lead wire on the bulbs and install the covers. Make sure to place BOTH clamps on the covers. NOTE: the passenger side is really limited in room to remove the outer clamp. I recomend a long screwdriver to help release it. Re clamping the outer clamp will take some finesing to get a hold of it and bring it forward. I recomend looping a metal wire on the middle to help bring it out and pull it to clamp it.)

Dec 12, 2010 | 2003 Jaguar X-Type

2 Answers

Rear heater motor not working bought new one still not working


Hello harlydale
In the fuse block below the inst. panel, there are two fuses for the blower moter, fuse#4 and #5 both are 15amp fuses. If the fuses are
good, pull the yellow/blk wire from the the bl.moter and using a test
wire ground the contact the yel/blk wire came from. If the blower works,
replace the blower resistor assembly. It's located near the blower mtr.
and has 4 wires from it, yel/blk- pnk/blu-brn-grn. Also make sure the key is on and the blower is on when you do these tests.
Hope this helps.

Mar 02, 2010 | 1995 Mercury Villager

1 Answer

Joecoolvette, so far I think I am able to isolate the power outage area. By using a Voltage Tester I found in my attic a wiring entrance (hole) where four wires are present: two energized wires come from...


My extreme apologizes yacunix, as I just received notification!

I do realize the gravity of your problem due to,

A) Your indication of shutting all power off to your residential structure

B) The grave safety factors that are involved, and it is my contention that you should be led step, by step, with safety guidelines being implemented during the entire course of the procedures involved.

All safety issues Need to be addressed, Before starting the procedures, and During the procedures.

In my possible defense, and this website's defense, I would wish you to know why my response is so late.

I didn't provide a Solution. I provided information in a Clarification. This was implemented, because I hadn't provided any sort of solution to your problem, just possible information to tools you may want to consider, and a way to start diagnosing your problem.

I was alerted that you had posted again, and had my user name in the heading, by a fellow expert, jyackle5.

More information was needed before proceeding further.

I needed to know if your residential structure was of the vintage that used the old knob, and tube wiring system.

With this older type of system, the Neutral, or Common wire, is led all throughout the residence on a single strand of wire.

There are individual Hot wires for each room, or a series of receptacles.

Now that I see we are dealing with a Service Panel, that has circuit breakers. Hopefully all the wiring is NM.
(Non Metallic insulation. A moniker frequently used is 'Romex'. Romex is/was a manufacturer of NM wiring, and the name stuck.
Just like when an open end adjustable wrench, is referred to as a 'Crescent Wrench')

[ I know it's a pain accessing the attic, and going back to those proposed power source wires. All I can state, is welcome to the world of an electrician.

Are the two energized wires, and the two non-energized wires in a junction box?
The junction box will be made of metal, or plastic. (Metal preferred)

If they are not, they need to be put into one. Anytime you have a connection you have a possible source for resistance, and also the connection coming loose.

Resistance causes heat. Heat can cause Fire.

Connections are put inside a junction box to keep them contained in a safe manner, and for physical requirements.
I use a metal style of junction box. I use 'Romex' wire connectors attached to the junction box, and clamped down on the wires.
I also use the metal cover.

This is a safety requirement set out by the NEC a long time ago. (US)
If a fire breaks out do to a loose connection, it is contained inside that junction box.
If a connection becomes so loose that the hot wire touches the junction box, the circuit breaker for that circuit, trips.

(ALL junction boxes, must be connected to the bare copper wire. Earth ground)

Stated this information in case you have a situation where NM wires are sticking up in that attic access hole, with wire nuts for the connection, and are NOT in a junction box.

It would behoove you to put them in a junction box, believe me.

A metal junction box used for this purpose is octagonal shaped.
There are four knockout holes, on the outside edge of the junction box. There is a metal cover that screws down on top of the junction box

An instrument such as a metal flat tip screwdriver, is used to partially tap the knockout to the outside of the junction box, then a pair of electrician's pliers are used to twist the knockout back, and forth, then remove it.

There are two different styles of these metal octagonal junction boxes, and two different sizes that I use.
(IF space permits, you can also use a square metal junction box)

One style has Two - 3/4 inch knockout holes, and Two - 1 inch knockout holes. Small and large in size.

The other style has Four - 3/4 inch knockout holes. Small and large in size.

Since you are only dealing with 4 wires, I would suggest the style that has Four - 3/4 inch knockout holes, and is 4 inches in diameter, plus 1-1/2 inches deep.

Buy Four Romex wire connectors.

( Illustration of what a Romex connector looks like,

http://www.gordonelectricsupply.com/index~ID~,Conduit...Fittings,NM.Romex.Connectors~path~product~part~35870~ds~dept~process~search

Note the two screws, and the bar clamp, in the front of this Romex connector's view shown.
The NM wire goes under the clamp, and the two screws tighten the clamp to the INSULATION of the NM wire.

The screws are tightened down evenly, keeping the clamp flat on the wire's insulation.
The clamp is only tightened down tight enough to keep the NM wire from pulling out, Not so tight that it squishes the insulation too far.

NO more than 1 inch of the OUTER insulation sheath, of the NM wire, can be protruding inside the junction box.
Make SURE you have enough NM wire's outer insulation stripped back, when installing the NM wire into the junction box.
TIP: Strip back 3 inches of the outer insulation sheath, of the NM wire.

The locking ring nut comes off, and the Romex wire connector's threaded part is inserted through the knockout hole, from the outside of the junction box.

Then the nut is installed on the threads, from the inside of the junction box.
Use a flat tip screwdriver to tighten the locking ring nut, by putting the flat tip against the 'Teeth' of the locking ring, and tapping the handle of the screwdriver.

You want the clamp to be parallel to the cover, for easy access to the screw heads.
I turn the Romex wire connector to about a 45 degree angle, tighten the locking ring just so tight, then use my electricians pliers to turn the Romex connector, until the clamp is parallel to the junction box cover, and the locking ring tightens up all the way.

NO more than 3 conductor wires can be installed in a single octagonal junction box. The Hot wires, (Black), are the conductor wires.
(That means there will be 3 Black wires, 3 White {Neutral or Common} wires, and 3 bare copper wires. {Ground)

Apologizes for that, but IF those four wires are NOT in a junction box, I don't want you to fix the source of your problem, and leave these wires not in a junction box.

Not in a junction box is an excellent source for a possible fire hazard. ALL connections should be in a junction box in some form, or another. Even behind a light fixture. ('Pancake' box)

NOW,

You have identified the two source hot wires, (Or it is thought so at this point)

Did you physically check the wire nuts to see if they were loose?
Did you do this with the POWER being ON?

THIS = NO!

POWER OFF, and I mean the entire residence, if you are not 100% positive what circuit breaker/s provide power, to those two hot leads!

Even IF you are sure the power is off, use the non-contact voltage detector for those wires, and BE SURE!

I hope you take no offense, to my being overbearing about your safety. I am not trying to insult your intelligence at any time.
I am just VERY Concerned for your safety.

AC electricity used in your residence is Alternating Current.
The electricity actually alternates back, and forth.
As it does it Vibrates the wire.

This vibration can loosen connections such as a wire nut. Upon a casual glance, the wire nut may indeed look to be tight.
Upon closer inspection by trying to twist the wire nut on tighter, it may be found that the wire nut is loose.

The wire nut MUST be on tight!!
No ANDS, IF's, or BUTS about it!

I have come through MANY a residence, where the wire nuts worked loose.
I have been through a few, where the two wires were not properly twisted together, before the wire nut was twisted on.

Tip of one wire was barely caught by the threads of the wire nut, and eventually came loose out of the wire nut.
(Yes, it makes it so much FUN {?} to track these down!)

Another thing. I tape the wire nuts to the wires, with Black electrical tape. Prevents those babies from ever coming loose. The last wind of the tape is wrapped around the wires, then tied into a square knot.

(Yes, another electrician would hate to follow my work, and have to take that electrical tape off, before being able to remove the wire nut. Thing is, unless they are using this connection for another wire lead to something else, they don't have to touch my connections. My connections stay secure. I have residences from 12 years ago, or more, to prove this)

More in additional comments, leading more directly to your problem, with your recent information posted.

Jan 20, 2010 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

Welder will not weld even when I touch the wire from the gun to the ground clamp it will not burn off


Basic electricity, + and -, electricity needs a metallic path to follow, on the - side, start by inspecting the connection where the ground cable plugs into the machine. These connectors often wear out and sometimes they lose their connectivity. Wiggle it, feel it, visually inspect it, move on down the cable, are there any splices? I've seen them spliced in numerous places with black tape everywhere, and the owner's standing there scratching his head wondering... Check where the cable attaches the clamp, is it secure and tight? If you're satisfied the ground side is in good condition, then troubleshoot the +side. Now, how the torch side works is there are two electric paths that need to have connectivity. The first is a wire that connects inside the cover of the welder, runs all along the whip to the trigger, where it's connected to a switch (trigger), then follows back down the whip to the machine. If anything happens when you squeeze the trigger then this is all working properly, logical? If nothing happens, check the connections we just discussed. The other path is how the high voltage gets to your work. At the machine, connected to the wire drive is the liner of the whip. Where this is clamped to the drive is the connection, inspect it. then the electricity travels down the liner to the contact tip, which is how the electricity gets into the wire. If they put the electricity into the wire at the machine, the wire would be glowing red hot and melting all through the whip, because the resistance is the same as at the tip of the wire, get it? But the liner itself is heavier metal than the wire, so the resistance is less, so it doesn't heat in the liner, following? So if you pull the shield off the end of the handle, you'll see the contact tip that connects the + liner to the moving wire inside. Inspect it closely. If you still have no current flow after these inspections, there's still hope. Somewhere on the machine there should be two or more fuses. Find them and inspect them, if any are burnt, be sure to replace it with the same size and amp fuse. I'm sure that if you follow these steps, your welder will be working just fine before you know it. Please post back your results.

Feb 05, 2009 | Hobart Handler 140 Mig Welder

2 Answers

Welder not welding


The contact tip is the main source of power, if the tip is bigger than the wire then you will not get a proper conection, the earth clamp is a essential part of the system make sure you have a good earth and all the conections are tight

Jan 14, 2009 | Clarke Power Products Clarke 130EN Mig 110...

1 Answer

Dryer 4 tp 3 pring cord install


Hello wgirdler,
While it is preferred to upgrade the receptacle to a 4-prong type (which includes Neutral & Ground) Code requirements grandfather in 3-prong receptacles in older homes. So if your preference is to remove and replace the power cord on your dryer, make sure you get one that is designed for a dryer application and is 10/3 type. ( 10 Gauge wire with 3 conductors)...
Unplug the original 4 prong plug from the receptacle and pull the dryer away from the wall to gain access to the back of it.
Next, loosen the cord clamp that allows the cord to pass thru the back panel and into the druer compartment.
Open the access cover to where the end of that cord is terminated on a terminal block of the dryer.
Note which color is attached to which terminal ( red to red,black to black, white to white and green to green)...
3 Prong cables do not use a ground wire ( green) in the cord so you would wire the red to red, black to black and white to white ( The red and black are the power conductors and the white ..which is normally terminated between them.. is in the middle. You can get a seperate insulated conductor wire and route it from the ground stud of the dryer to the receptacle metal casing but do this with power disabled at the circuit breaker box...
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Rick

Nov 29, 2008 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Changing 3 wire to 4 wire cord on dryer [electric type]


If you had a 3 wire system and need to adapt your drier to a 4 wire system.. here is how you do it.. Your 4 wire cord should have the following colored wire ends.. Red, Black, White and Green.. The red and black are the power leads and should be attached to the red and black terminals on the back of the drier.. The White wire is Neutral and should be terminated on the white terminal of the drier.. The green wire is Ground and should be attached to the nearest frame or chassis screw at the point of entry into the drier.. If you are using a metal cable clamp as part of a feedthru system to get the cord into the drier.. you can attach the green wire to one of the screws on that.. but that should be done only if you canot find a suitable frame ground screw near the terminal block.. Hope this helps...

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1 Answer

DNX 7100


What type of car is it? Make sure the Black (Ground) lead for the radio is connected to an adequate ground wire in the harness or to chassis metal. Some vehicles (Nissan, Mitsubishi) have no ground lead in their harnesses and need to be grounded to bare metal.

Aug 17, 2008 | Kenwood DNX7100 Car Video Player

1 Answer

Kelvinator Stove Power Cable Connection


You should unscrew the small back panel, on the undercover should be a scetch of the wiring.
If not the three red are live, black is neutral and the g/y is earth, from number 5 to 1 connect as follows: 5 and 4-black,3,2,1 red and look for a screw type fitting or green wires to connect earth.
Its important to connect earth before operating the stove as it cuold lead to serious injury if not connected.
Hope this helps
Richard

Dec 23, 2007 | Stoves 1100ESIDLa Electric Kitchen Range

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