No lights in any mode of thermostat, emergency, heat, auto, on; nothing, fuse looks good, circuit breaker good, switches intact at fan unit and furnace. Drain pipe cleared with bleach water, filter clear.
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Re: no air conditioning unit inop
You lost your 24v check the transformer at the furnace at R and C treminals see if you have 24v if not your transformer is gone but you also have to have the door switch on the blower section closed and check incoming power as well
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Jun 2, 2013 - Uploaded by KungFuMaintenance
Break A Breaker No Power To Air Conditioner Tripped AC Can I Get A ... I have a GE model # AEM14aQL1 air conditioner wallunit 14,200 BTU ...
If any of the following conditions occur, stop the air conditioner immediately, turn off the main power switch and contact the
• The indicators flash at short intervals (5 Hz). Reset the circuit breaker 2 to 3 minutes after the power main switch is turned
Despite the resetting operation, the indicators still continue turning on and off.
• The main power fuse often blows, or the circuit breaker is often activated.
• Foreign matter or water has fallen inside the air conditioner.
• Any other unusual conditions are observed.
Before asking for servicing or repairs, check the following points.
• The power main switch is turned off.
• The circuit breaker is activated to cut off the power supply.
• The main power fuse has blown.
• The electric current has stopped.
• The batteries in the remote controller used up.
• The ON timer is set.
• As a protective mechanism for the air conditioner, it does not operate for 3 minutes
immediately after restarting operation or turning on the main power.
Poor cooling or heating performance
• The air inlet or outlet of the outdoor unit is blocked.
• Doors or windows are opened.
• The air filter is clogged with dust.
• The louver is not at the correct position.
• The fan speed is set to low.
• The air conditioner is set
to the DRY or SLEEP MODE.
• The temperature setting is too high (during cooling operation).
• The temperature setting is too low (during heating operation). (heat pump models)
one half of the breaker you moved is not making contact in the panel or moving the breaker caused the fan relay to be on the same 115 volt leg as the power leg. If the breaker is connected to two points in the panel and you have 115 volts on each side of the breaker (230 volts) You can move the breaker one notch higher or lower or switch wires on the breaker to correct the circuit.
Split system Air conditioners are very often on two or more separate breakers, with a control voltage (24vac commonly) connecting their operation. the condensor unit and out-door fan generally on a 220 vc 'paired' breaker, possibly a quick disconnect near the unit with fuses inside, or an independant breaker pair, and the evaporator unit with INDOOR fan on a 110 or 220 vac breaker.
switch the fan to 'ON' at the thermostat... this is the midpoint of the system electrically. If the fan comes on check for voltage at the condensor unit. a check to see if the thermostat is the problem... remove the thermostat and connect the red, green and either the white or yellow wires (not both) if you chose white you should have heat...yellow AC...
most split system AC have a small buss fuse on the control circuit board of the indoor unit. looks like a glass tube with metal caps held by metal clips. In 40+ yrs experience I have found it is more likely one or both of the 30 amp buss fuses near the outdoor unit (replace both even if one is still ok) or a 30 amp breaker in the quick disconnect box.
In many systems the control voltage to the thermostat derives from a transformer in the outdoor unit... it could be as simple as a broken wire. Without a full diagnostic, a complete description of the unit ( AC or heat pump, etc) this is all speculation
the fan fill come on with the sequencer (stack switch you call it) it will also come on with the fan relay. on some goodmans the fan relay is the black box on the circuit board. use a jumper to jump red to green, this should bring the fan on sounds like you could have a broken green wire, try using a different wire instead of green
could be either a fuse on the furnace circuit board, broken thermostat wire or an error code stored on furnace circuit board. look for a small viewing port on the furnace. look into it for any lights. if you have an error code it will blink out a number code. if so, look on the reverse side of the front panel near the wiring diagram for a diagnostic code. check circuit board for small glass fuse and make sure it is good. take thermostat wires at thermostat and jump w and r terminals together. if it works, bad thermostat. if not, bad wire or circuit board on furnace.
I believe the soft hum you are hearing is the contactor pulling in. You can check by standing by the outdoor unit and have someone inside turn the a/c on and off at the thermostat. If the contactor is being energized you will hear a distinctive click as it energizes or de-energizes. If this happens check your main power sources to the condenser. Make sure the circuit breaker in the fuse box is turned on. Also check your outside disconnect box that connects to the condenser. Remember this is high voltage so be careful. A lot of these disconnect boxes have cartridge fuses inside of it. You will need a voltmeter to check the continuity of the fuses to make sure they are ok. Just one being bad could make the condenser inoperative. If you need to change the cartridge fuses, make sure you put in the exact size needed. putting in the wrong size for you unit can cause problems. Always buy "time delay" fuses . They cost more but they will not blow out on initial start up like the cheap ones will. I hope this info helps you....
if your power vent moter is not running you should not have have glowing ignitor.Frist the vent moter must close an air prove switch in series with the idnitor .seems you have a stuck air prove switch.Its the one with a hose attached
Sounds like you either blew a transformer, have a bad circuit breaker or blew the main fuse in the outside disconnect. If the indoor unit is still blowing air (no matter what temperature) start looking at the power supply to the outdoor unit. From the circuit breaker, the power will go to a small box located within a few feet from the outside unit. This box will have either a lever on the side or you will be able to open the box and pull out the fuses. From this box the power goes to the condensor. The first thing you should do is to turn off the breaker to the outside unit. Flip it back on and if you have a call for cooling, after about 3 minutes the outdoor unit should start. If it does not, shut off power again to the unit by switching off the breaker, go outside and pull out the fuses in the disconnect box. Using a multi meter, check for continuity thru the fuses. If you have continuity, call your technician. If one or both fuses show no sign of continuity, replace the fuse(s).
Make sure that the thermostat is working and sending a signal to the indoor air handler. You may be able to check this by turning the fan switch to "Fan" and see if the blower turns on. You may just have a bad thermostst.
Caution should be used anytime you are near electrical components. If you do not have the skill-set required to test electrical equipment, leave it to a proffessional.