No lights in any mode of thermostat, emergency, heat, auto, on; nothing, fuse looks good, circuit breaker good, switches intact at fan unit and furnace. Drain pipe cleared with bleach water, filter clear.
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Re: no air conditioning unit inop
You lost your 24v check the transformer at the furnace at R and C treminals see if you have 24v if not your transformer is gone but you also have to have the door switch on the blower section closed and check incoming power as well
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If any of the following conditions occur, stop the air conditioner immediately, turn off the main power switch and contact the
• The indicators flash at short intervals (5 Hz). Reset the circuit breaker 2 to 3 minutes after the power main switch is turned
Despite the resetting operation, the indicators still continue turning on and off.
• The main power fuse often blows, or the circuit breaker is often activated.
• Foreign matter or water has fallen inside the air conditioner.
• Any other unusual conditions are observed.
Before asking for servicing or repairs, check the following points.
• The power main switch is turned off.
• The circuit breaker is activated to cut off the power supply.
• The main power fuse has blown.
• The electric current has stopped.
• The batteries in the remote controller used up.
• The ON timer is set.
• As a protective mechanism for the air conditioner, it does not operate for 3 minutes
immediately after restarting operation or turning on the main power.
Poor cooling or heating performance
• The air inlet or outlet of the outdoor unit is blocked.
• Doors or windows are opened.
• The air filter is clogged with dust.
• The louver is not at the correct position.
• The fan speed is set to low.
• The air conditioner is set
to the DRY or SLEEP MODE.
• The temperature setting is too high (during cooling operation).
• The temperature setting is too low (during heating operation). (heat pump models)
one half of the breaker you moved is not making contact in the panel or moving the breaker caused the fan relay to be on the same 115 volt leg as the power leg. If the breaker is connected to two points in the panel and you have 115 volts on each side of the breaker (230 volts) You can move the breaker one notch higher or lower or switch wires on the breaker to correct the circuit.
the fan fill come on with the sequencer (stack switch you call it) it will also come on with the fan relay. on some goodmans the fan relay is the black box on the circuit board. use a jumper to jump red to green, this should bring the fan on sounds like you could have a broken green wire, try using a different wire instead of green
Hello,Good job with description.Something is keeping the condenser off(saftey).Do you have an emergency heat setting on the therm.It will run electric heat strips only until service can check it out.Very rare that the disconnect switch (black box) is it.Need electrical meter to prove it out.
Does this problem happen when the temperature is below 30 degrees? When it gets about that cold outside, the air outside is too cold for the heat pump to "steal" heat from. On the thermostat you'll find a switch labeled aux or emergency heat. Turning this switch on will operate a traditional coil heater inside the system, providing you with heat. The only downfall to this is that it uses more energy to heat this way. Try turning the fan switch from "auto" to "on". If the fan comes on, then we can rule that out. If the aux heat switch is NOT on, set the thermostat such that the system will try to heat. If the outside unit is running, the problem is either it being too cold like I said earlier, or there's a problem with the heat pump's mechanical system that needs to be serviced by a professional. If the outside unit doesn't run but it should be, check it's breakers at the panel, the breaker inside the electrical box that feeds it, and look to see if there's a reset button on the unit itself. Finally, check the air handler (part of the system inside with the fan in it) to see if there's any circuit breakers or fuses on this unit. Make sure they're not tripped/blown. If none of this helps, you definitely want to get a pro to work on your system.
First of all, what do you mean by hot air? DO YOU REALLY MEAN ROOM TEMERATURE AIR THAT JUST DOES NOT FEEL COLD? If this is a heat pump system, we need to look at it differently than if it is a gas or oil fired heater. Next, the thermostat control that says "cont.fan auto"----- this actually means FAN switch to be in AUTOMATIC RUN or CONTINUOUS RUN mode. Leave it in auto mode and forget that it is there; this little switch confuses a lot of people. The dial that says 10-30 is centegrade temperature that translates to 50-87 degrees farenheit. In order to get air conditioned (cold) air, you must have thermostat fan switch on auto, the heat/off/cool switch on cool, and the 10-30 dial on 20 or 21 (68-70 f.) assuming the room temp is at least 72 degrees f. or higher. If you still do not get cold air, then there is a problem with the cooling circulation system which can be tripped circuit breaker to outside compressor unit, loss of freon refrigerant, bad control such as relay or reversing valve in outside unit, stuck heat sequencers or heat element relay that are giving you heat at the same time giving cold if it is a heatpump system. You will need a skilled service person to determine these problems. Goodluck, Macgivor
if your power vent moter is not running you should not have have glowing ignitor.Frist the vent moter must close an air prove switch in series with the idnitor .seems you have a stuck air prove switch.Its the one with a hose attached
Two things, first go up to the heater and check the fuse inside the heater, looks like a car fuse. If that is not popped, then go outside to your AC unit and pull out the emergency disconnect. Check those fuses with a multimeter. IF you do not get anything replace those fuses, It has nothing at all to do with your thermostat.
Sounds like you either blew a transformer, have a bad circuit breaker or blew the main fuse in the outside disconnect. If the indoor unit is still blowing air (no matter what temperature) start looking at the power supply to the outdoor unit. From the circuit breaker, the power will go to a small box located within a few feet from the outside unit. This box will have either a lever on the side or you will be able to open the box and pull out the fuses. From this box the power goes to the condensor. The first thing you should do is to turn off the breaker to the outside unit. Flip it back on and if you have a call for cooling, after about 3 minutes the outdoor unit should start. If it does not, shut off power again to the unit by switching off the breaker, go outside and pull out the fuses in the disconnect box. Using a multi meter, check for continuity thru the fuses. If you have continuity, call your technician. If one or both fuses show no sign of continuity, replace the fuse(s).
Make sure that the thermostat is working and sending a signal to the indoor air handler. You may be able to check this by turning the fan switch to "Fan" and see if the blower turns on. You may just have a bad thermostst.
Caution should be used anytime you are near electrical components. If you do not have the skill-set required to test electrical equipment, leave it to a proffessional.