Question about Akai LCT3201AD 32 in. LCD Television

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Thanks for repair info on Akai power supply

I just want to thank you for the info in http://www.fixya.com/support/t920165-power_supply_problem on replacing the defective power supply capacitors. I opened the TV and the caps you describe are all swollen. I immediately remembered a Dell GX 240 recall for capacitors that had the same issues, so I'm looking forward to getting the TV running again after replacing these caps. I ordered the parts from Parts Express http://www.partsexpress.com/capacitor-lookup.cfm. They should be here Thursday, so I'll have the TV running Thursday night. Total costs: $ 9.12 with shipping. I couldn't have done it without your direction!!

Thanks,
Val
Ocala, Fl.

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  • woolval Aug 21, 2008

    I received the capacitors, installed all 5, but I've only got a partial fix. The set now turns on and the screen has a raster, but I am not getting any display. Even when I press "Menu" on the remote there is no display on the screen. I even tried playing a DVD in it's built in DVD player, but still no picture or sound. This is my dad's TV and it is possible a lightening strike may have caused some damage. My dad's neighbor had his cable boxes replaced after the lightening strike, but dad's big TV works fine (which is on a UPS... and I was meaning to add a UPS for this TV). Do you have any suggestions? Do you know where I might obtain a schematic? Either way, thanks for the help.
    Val
    Ocala, Fl.


  • woolval Aug 21, 2008

    Update: I opened up the set to see if I missed any plugs. Nope... all connected. I did notice that each connector has voltages on them, so I measuered my outputs. It seems the voltages on CON5 are low. The readings are as follows:
    12V reads 3.3V
    9V reads 3.1V

    I traced the circuit and see the 9V is tapped off the 12 V circuit, so it seems my 12V circuit is bad. I suspect D20 is bad, but would love to have normal readings to test against. Do you know what the voltages on each lead should read?

    It's been a LONG time since I've done any of this type of troubleshooting. I gotta admit, I'm enjoying the challenge!

    Thanks again for any help.

    Val


  • woolval Aug 22, 2008

    It appears IC4 is defective. Still measuring 3.3V at CON5 with the load disconnected. I soldered a lead onto pin 1 of IC4 and it reads 15.2V with CON5 connected. (same with it disconnected) So, I've got the voltage on pin 1 but not on the other side of IC4.

    Can you tell me what part # or chip model I need to order to replace IC4? I do not have a schematic I can reference.

    I'm close to getting this puppy to breathing again!! Woo Hooo!!

    Thanks Jamie.

    Val


  • woolval Aug 22, 2008

    Update #2:After photographing IC4 (so I could blow it up enough for my eyes to see the number) I did a search for APM4461 and found the same data sheet, so at least I was on
    the right track. Eventually I was able to find a replacement at Digi-Key. http://search.digikey.com/scripts/dksear...

    If anyone tries this chip (I haven't received it yet, but I'll update this after I do) please take the time to compare the data sheet against the data sheet for the APM4461. The pin-out is different. The Toshiba data sheet is on the link above and Jaime867 has a link for the APM4461 chip, so you can see the pin-outs on each. It looks like I will need to run a jumper from pin 5 (for my SOURCE input) over to the circuit boards pin 1, 2, or 3 location. Then I'll clip off the Toshiba pins 1, 2 & 3 leads to avoid a problem. I also need to make sure pin 5 does not touch the circuit board. Pins 6, 7 & 8 are still the DRAIN and pin 4 is still the GATE so they will be OK.

    If you think I'm making a mistake by using the Toshiba chip I would appreciate knowing. I am placing faith in the Digi-Key rep giving me a valid cross reference...

    If someome has a link to a vendor who sells an exact replacment APM4461 I would appreciate that even more. I'd much rather use the original chip!!

    Thanks to Jaime867 for all your help. And I apologize for mis-spelling your name earlier.

    Val









  • woolval Aug 25, 2008

    Update #3: I received my replacement chip for IC4. Unfortunately it is SO SMALL I am unable to solder it to the board without shorting all the pins together. It is about 1/4 the size of the original chip and the leads are designed to solder directly to the circuit board. At least the original had leads I might have been able to work with...

    Does anyone have a source for an original replacement of IC4, APM4461?

    Thanks,
    Val
    Ocala, Fl.


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  • 2,267 Answers

I'm glad that my experience could help you.
Please let us know when you get it working.
Good Luck

Posted on Aug 18, 2008

  • Jaime Hernandez Aug 22, 2008

    Unplug the wires that are connected to CON5, if the 12 volts are present, there is something else on the main board pulling that voltage down.

    Measure the 12 volts at pin 1 of IC4, if you are getting 12 volts there it means IC 4 is defective. If the voltage still low the rectifier could be defective.

  • Jaime Hernandez Aug 22, 2008

    Click here to find the data sheet for IC4 in the power supply.

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