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Not trying to highjack your post. I just bought a 98 neon sport, manual sohc 2.0. Im having the exact same issue i think, car will run for a while then tac drops to zero and it dies, 5-40 minutes later i can restart but i usuall only make it a few blocks and it dies again, wait again and it will restart. Did you solve this problem with your neon and if not can anyone give me more places continue to diagnose. It has new cam and crank sensors, fresh plugs, wires and coil, new battery. I got the car cheap, thinking of fuel savings but i dont want it to became a parts money pit.
Sorry for the delay, I didn't find your post until now. With your voltmeter, you need to set it to read ohms (continuity). On the flywheel cover on the right side of the engine, there will be wires coming out of a grommet. The wires you need to check will be the 3 yellow wires. I will call them Y1, Y2 and Y3. Probe Y1 to Y2, then Y1 to Y3, and finally Y2 to Y3. Your meter should show about .5 ohms maximum between the wires. If you meter does not show any results there is an open line, sometimes it will say OL on meter. If results vary too much between wires you have found your problem. Next test is to probe each wire with the red lead and place the black lead against engine ground. There should be no continuity between any yellow wire and ground, open line. If any wire shows continuity the stator is grounded and needs to be replaced. Start there and let me know what you find. Go ahead and reply on this post so I can be sure to help you right away, Daniel.
Go to control panel-device admin-video/camera devices.
If no camera listed, then the camera is not working anymore, needs replacing, if listed but with an exclamation sign, try updating the cam driver.
Have you removed the original connector from you original stereo? If you still have the original connector in place you can get a new connector from the Ford dealer that will plug into your existing wiring and into your new deck. Ford connections are unique to Ford and you need to adapt them for this application.
Take the car and deck to the dealer and tell them what you need. Everything just plugs in and your original amp and speakers in the car will work.
Having said that there was an adapter available at Wal Mart of all places that did work. You may want to check there.
If you have removed the original connector then you need a wiring diagram.
1992 Ford Probe Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram
Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Blue/Red
Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Blue/White
Radio Ground Wire: Chassis
Radio Illumination Wire: Light Green/Black
Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A
Radio Power Antenna Trigger Wire: White
Radio Amplifier Turn On Trigger Wire: N/A
Front Speakers Size: 6 1/2′
Front Speakers Location: Doors
Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Blue/Orange
Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Blue/Black
Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Blue
Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Blue/Green
Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2′
Rear Speakers Location: Side Panels
Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Green/Orange
Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Green/Red
Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Green/Blue
Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Green
The amp is located under the rear passenger side window. You need to remove the plastic side wall to expose it if you need access there. You can trace the wiring if needed.
Under the front bottom edge of the rear seat are clips holding the seat in place. Open the clips and the seat lifts off. You can then get to the amp as needed.