Thank you for your time. So from reading that page you sent me, it seems to be a problem with my headunit, not the wires or amp. Correct me if i got the wrong thing from that page. If i install a new head unit would that work as well? also do you have a solution for the "low voltage" thing?lol thanks man for everythin so far
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Hi, sounds like you lost your amp turn on. Look for a blue, or a blue-white wire, that is your turn on and or power antenna wire. Turn on your strreo, check the output voltage with a meter on that wire. If you have voltage, check the battery power on your amp. If you dont have power on the turn on wire, use an acc. voltage that shuts off with the key. That should do the trick.
Based on your post/description, pls try: 1. running the amp's power without the capacitor; 2. manually trigger the amp with the head unit off. Run it an determine if the backfiring still will occur (even with the head unit off); 3. temporarily interchange the left/right wiring; 4. temporarily interchange the + and - speaker wires; 5. run the amp normally trioggered by the headunit but remove the RCA connectors towards the amp.
If your concern has not been corrected or diagnosed which is at fault (wiring, amp, source) after completion of the above procedures, the amp may require an internal look and see.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
If it just started, you have an equipment or wiring problem. Check the wires first, that's easy. Otherwise, the amp may be bad, check the warranty if its new. Maybe you can get a replacement.
If it's always happened, some cars have an factory amp for the rear factory speakers hidden in the wiring. Sometimes between body panels. If you didn't bypass that, you're more than likely blowing out the new amp with too much power causing it to shut itself down. (protected mode or keep blowing fuses) Could be a blown speaker, bad ground, internal damage, RCA cable problem, the list goes on and on. Find out the preoutput voltage of your headunit and set the gain to what that is and nothing else LEAVE IT THERE, the gain isnt a volume knob for your amp its to get the amp and the radio on the same page (i.e. radios at 50% volume and so is the amp) if you turn it down too low that will make the amp very sensitive to volume adjustments and your amp will be at 100% while the raidos at like 50 or 75% and once you go past the 50 or 75 on the radio the amps going to keep trying to play higher even though its already maxing out which is going to cause it to clip and cause distortion untill it goes into protect mode. Hope this was helpfull to some one
assuming that both subwoofers are working fine: check what voltage output your headunit has (RCA output voltage) and match it to your amplifiers input sensitivity (GAIN) eg: if your headunit has 4 volt outputs then on this particular amplifier your gain knob would be completely to the left as if in the off or 0 posirion.
if u are not sure of your headunits output voltage you could check the manuals specification page or send me the barand and model number of your headunit and I will check it for u.
hope this helps. let me know if I can assist you any further.
The inline fuse goes on the power wire (as close to battery as possible), and is there for a sfety feature to keep from sending to much power to the amp. All it does, is simply blow if the power gets over the specified amperage. For your amp, I would use a 40-60 amp fuse.
The remote power line, is simply an 18 gauge wire, running from the headunit to the amp. All it does is tell the amp when to power up. Since the amp is straight to the battery, it is possible to be on at all times, so you run it to the amp so it knows when to be on. If your headunit doesnt have a remote turn on wire, then tou need to run it from the ingnition to the amp.
For a signal cable, I recommend getting an rca cable to run to the amp from the headunit. Make sure when you run it that you run it away from the power wire to prevent from having engine noise.
You also need a ground wire, wich should be to a stud on the frame of your car, as close to the amp as possible.
When hooking up your amp to the sub, you need to run the negative to the negative (black to black) and the positive to the positive (red to red).
The voltage drop may not be in the actual power wire itself. The same reading on both the B+ and remote terminal probably points to a bad or high resistance ground. Try a different ground point or make sure there isn't any corrosion, paint or anything else preventing metal to metal contact.
i have found that if your battery isnt almost brand new, it cant power an amp 2000w or higher. replace it. if not that then you may have to small of a power supply or ground wire. if not, well, your amp is bad. + remember ground wire cant be longer then 3 feet. good luck.
It sounds like you may have a speaker wire shorted to ground. This could trigger the protection circuit. Check all wiring including the area behind the 6x9s to make sure that nothing is shorted to metal/ground. If you can't see any shorts to ground, use an ohm meter to check the wires.
Disconnect the wires from the amp and measure the resistance between the speaker wires and chassis ground. Ideally, they should show infinite resistance. If you read anything other than infinite resistance, trace all wiring to find the short.