The washer overflowed as it was filling up, as if it didn't know when to stop, never agitated, just started leaking everywhere all over the floor!!

Generally you could have two problems. Number one may be a sticking water solonoid that doesn't want to close after the fill cycle has stopped. Number two, if the machine has not started to agitate the clothes that means the timer has not reached that part of the cycle and is stuck in the fill mode. My guess is number two would be more likley, the timers **** out nowand then. Hope that helps

could pressure hose to pressure switch has come off at tub air dome near bottom rear of tub

Sounds like a lid switch

Hello,

It depending on exactly what your seeing that will determine the problem.

Does your washer start agitating and keep filling?? if yes it does start agitating and the water continuies to fill try disconnectiing the power and if it keeps filling what would be wrong is that the water inlet valve is sticking open and it would need to replaced

If the washer continues to fill and does not start agaitating would be a defective water level switch as you suspect it may be.If ya disconnect the power and it STOPS filling replace the water level(pressure) switch.


GENE

Overflow is usually caused by a "stuck-open" fill valve, with the cold water half of the valve 'sticking' open from sediment buildup inside the valve.

This can also be caused by the fill system control components: pressure switch, pressure tube, or pressure tube dome/port. So let's take a look at these.

First of all, determine whether your overflow condition is mechanical or electrical. Start the washer filling, then turn the timer off by pushing the knob in. If the fill continues, pull the washer plug. If filling continues with the washer unplugged, you have a mechanical problem - nearly always a stuck valve ***'y. Replace the fill valve.

If however, the fill stops when you unplug the machine, you are looking at an electrical fill control problem, and it gets a little more complicated.

Here a small piece of rubber or plastic tubing is handy. Unplug the washer and open the console where you'll see the pressure switch. This is the switch with a small rubber tube, usually clear, sometimes black, attached. Pull this tube off and replace it with your short tubing. Blow a bit of pressure into the switch using your mouth, and listen for a click, then another when you release the pressure. Hear two clicks? Good! The switch is probably OK

Plug the washer back in (being aware that components in the console are now 'hot' - live electric, use extreme caution , u can be SHOCKED), and start the washer filling again. With it filling, again blow a bit of pressure into the switch. If the switch is good, the fill should stop and the machine should start to agitate.

This verifies that the pressure switch is working, and causes us to suspect the pressure tubing or a clogged port/dome to which it connects. Wipe off the end of the original tube you removed from the switch, and blow into it. You're blowing air down into the tank now, and you should feel very little restriction. If it is very hard or impossible to blow through this tube, the tank dome or port is clogged.

Really old Maytags were known for this, and if you have one, spin out all water, remove the 'Corbin' clamp from the pressure tube outside of the tank and pull the tube off. (Pull washer front off - 2 Phillips screws at bottom, then two 3/8 in. hex screws release top, which swings upward) You will probably see 'gunk' clogging both the rubber tubing and the 'spud' that is a part of the tank. The hose ***'y can be taken to a sink and flushed clean with hot water, and an old toothbrush used to clear the tank spud, which, in the Maytags, is about 3/4 in. ID.

Very important: WHENEVER THE PRESSURE TUBE IS REMOVED, BEFORE REINSTALLING IT, BE SURE ALL WATER HAS BEEN SPUN OUT OF THE WASHER! Otherwise, the water fill level will be incorrect and you'll be back in trouble.

Your fill sensor is leaking and allowing air pressure from the clear tube to seep out. First make sure your clear tube from the tub to the water level valve is firmly connected. If it is then you may need to get a new water level adjuster switch.

since the water stops running in and goes to the agitation mode when you blow on the tube, it is more than likely the pressure switch - one thing to check though, put it in the fill cycle [with water running in] and unplug the power cord. the water should stop running in. if it doesn't, the fill valve is sticking open and should be replaced

A possibility is the pressure switch that senses water level is bad or the tube that connects it to the outer tub is split or loose and leaking air. If this is a timed-fill rather than a level-sensed fill, the timer may be in trouble. The washer top needs to be raised up to look for the level switch.
Remove the agitator and watch the plastic hub at the top of the shaft to see if it moves when the washer is set to wash. If it does, remove the plastic hub and see if it is cracked or the interior splines have been torn--if so, replace the hub.

TAKE BACK OFF LOCATE CLEAR HOSE THAT CONNECTS TO PRESSURE SWITCH REMOVE FROM SWITCH AND BLOW OR USE SMALL BLAST COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAR IT OF THE CLOG THAT IS LOCATED IN THE CUP TO TUB. POWDER DETERGENTS LIKE TO CREATE A CLOG IN THAT CUP. RUN SMALL HOT WASH CYCLE NO CLOTHES

Check the timer in the back behind your knobs make sure it is working. That timer times how long for the water to run on all your settings and for everything else