Question about Kenmore 80754 Top Load Stacked Washer / Dryer
Clothes get trap undr the blades of the agitator.
causing the rest of clothes to tangle on one side of the machine
the machine is brand new
SOURCE: Model No. 22632
Seams like this washers has the same problem lets try to fixya. check the
Moldy at the front-loading washing machine these where it is,
look for mold inside the large rubber ring (the seal) at the opening of the washer and it's hard to scrub off, even with bleach.
Try this then used Affresh at list for 2 or 3 weeks,
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Posted on May 09, 2009
SOURCE: clothes come out tangled
Things tend to intertwine in the washer, even more so in front loaders. The only things that I have found that help is to use fabric softener, a gentler cycle, and an extra rinse. This alleviates the problem some for me, but it doesn't really go away entirely.
Posted on Aug 01, 2009
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.
If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission.
We had the same problem:
If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.
Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).
You don't have to remove the drum.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.
Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
Posted on Nov 24, 2009
Improperly installed thrust bearing kit. Too many washers cause the basket to spin during agitation.
Posted on Jan 04, 2010
Testimonial: "Where is the "thrust bearing kit" and how can it be installed properly?"
Remove the top part of the agitator or the cap and you should find a bolt in the center. Remove the bolt and pull up on agitator.
98702 is not the model # of the machine. you should find the model # either on top of the machine or in the dryer door area around the frame.
Posted on Jan 11, 2010
SOURCE: washing machine lint trap
There is no trap per say. The lint catcher is self cleaning when the water is pumped out. It sounds like you are overloading it and the clothes are hitting the agitator. Operation should be agitation by water movement not beat by the plastic fins, run a wash cycle hot water no clothes to flush things out and try smaller loads.
Posted on Mar 14, 2010
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