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Take to a trailer hitch specialty shop. (Think of where you would take a pickup truck to - not U-haul or similar). This sounds like a severe safety issue. They will recommend a safe alternative to your current hitch and likely buy it back from you as well (at a loss to you I am sure, but better than killing yourself or others when your boat or jet ski comes zooming past you on the highway.)
Best solution for you call an RV shop and ask them. Most hitch shops will tell you sure you can do it. But can you you really? Ask the people that sell these things for a living they will what you can or can`t install for a hitch and what you can haul with it. Hope this helps
I think the tongue weight rating on the stock hitch is 600 lbs, so you are over that. You probably want to level out truck to handle better when towing, so the best way is to get air bag helper that raises the back end.
if have trailer hitch - check for bare wires shorted together, if no trailer hitch look inside left frame rail at tail end- harness should come from front of truck to this point then cross over to right side- look for a cut or bare wiring again
Both the ball and the trailer hitch should be grounds so I'm guessing the trailer brakes have a hot wire touching the frame somewhere but not enough to blow a fuse. Before connecting the hitch to the ball, have someone press the trailer brakes and check between the hitch and the ball with a volt meter for 12 volts. If you do then something is wrong with the trailer brakes. I'm just guessing though.
The hitch part that fastens to your bike rear axle has 3 pieces, a dimpled washer which goes on first then the hitch plate and a pin that holds the trailer to the hitch. Take off the axle nut (15 mm wrench) install the dimpled washer it goes on with the 90 deg tang facing the bike wheel and in the channel so it can't rotate. Then put the hitch plate on, mine faced down for the correct height, line up the dimpled washer with the bumps on the hitch plate to locate it properly. reinstall the wheel nut and be sure to align the wheel so it runs straight and true (I oopsed on this the first time) then attach the trailer, it is a 90 deg hook-up then you simply put the the pin in and you are good to go. The unique hook-up makes it so smooth and dampened that you don't even know it's behind you. We really love ours!
I think a 140 is a IH Cub . I don't believe they had available a 3 point hitch. Please register at www.farmallcub.com and there are people there that have had a 140 apart and back together many times. IF there was a 3 point hitch available they will know about it. GOOD LUCK Mike
I checked the Reese site, and there is one available #77167 Insta-Hitch 1 which is a class 1 rating, drawbar #3594. Keep in mind that your Elantra is limited to towing 750 lbs WITHOUT trailer brakes, and up to 1500 lbs WITH trailer brakes. The installation of the hitch claims to be 'no drilling' but the exhaust system must be lowered for installation (then returned to position), and some 'trimming' of the cars fascia must be done. Take into consideration the terrain you intend to drive through. If there will be a lot of hills, you will struggle to accelerate, and braking w/out trailer brakes on long hills will overheat and reduce your stopping ability. Remember to figure in weight of passengers, luggage, and anything you put in or on the trailer, car roof rack etc. Good luck, and safe travel to you. Curt