Hello FixYa The fridge light comes on when the door is open and the fridge IS making a noise but just isn't cold. Any ideas? The fridge is a Schreiber intergrated fridge. Kind regards, Joe

Maybe evaporator fan is freezer is making the noise and needs to be replaced

Is the fan in your freezer working? Make sure the door switch is pressed in when checking as it cuts the fan out when the door is open. Does it have a manual defrost timer?

The fridge is just the end of the freezer evaporator. If the freezer isn't cold inside, check the rear panel. It is probably frozen solid with no air getting through. Switch off, leave doors open for 24 hours and be prepared for lots of water to come out. Clean the condenser and make sure the fan inside is ok. Reset the thermostat to middle of the range and be sure to come back to tell us how you get on.

you may have a seal problem on your doors make sure all seals seat to the fridge body properly, I suspect moist air getting in the fridge or someone putting hot food in it after supper :-)

That would be a clear sign that the tubing is folding when the door is shut. When the door is opened you should also not be able to use the dispenser functions without pressing the light switch in. I believe on yours the water line comes in the left hand door at bottom near the hinge. Can you find the model number so I can try to provide a visual presentation? Look around the fresh food door and near floor for the model number of your Whirlpool. Thanks, Sea Breeze

Hi,
Lights which previously did not flash but now do are clear indicators of operating failure.
Refridgerators and freezers do not like being unplugged for too long. if yours has been disconnected from the power for more than a couple of days, it could be damaged and need part replacement.
The variables are cold leakage, cooling gas leakage, electrical pump failure, thermostat circuit open, thermal cut-off switch disconnected. All of the above can be dangerous - electricity, gas, over-working pump etc. so always remember what we learned in kindergarten - If in doubt don't' - good advice with anything risky.
If you set the fridge on the coldest setting, place a common thermometer inside, note the initial temperature after closing the door for 15 minutes and then leave the fridge door closed overnight, in the morning carefully touch the heat transfer coils at the back, they should be hot all over to the touch. Open the door and check if the temperature has dropped.
If the whoo whoo noise is coming from the pump (often located in a black closed saucepan-sized unit you need to contact a qualified Whirlpool fitter.
If the whoo whoo noise is coming from around the edge of the door, the airtight seal is possibly defective. The seals often get dust etc. trapped in the accordian-like sealing strips around the entire door so, being careful not to damage the seal, clean the inner grooves - an old toothbrush and household cleaner generally work well.
If the fridge is a self-defrosting type, the lights may be indicating that it is stuck in defrost mode - check the Whirlpool website for troubleshooting temperature settings. There is often a small regulator switch which can break down. If you think that this is where the noise is coming from do not go fiddling about - electricity is a to be treated with care. Look for scorch marks or listen for crackling noise indicating a short sparking. Unplug the fridge before poking around the wires. A connector may have been dislodged and needs to be reattached so double-check that the power is off before reattaching the loose wire. It should be obvious where it plugs in but if not, don't go touching different tabs.
Re-read the installation and operating manual or call a fridge repair service if you are unable to find the fault. You can save time and repair costs by telling the repair person what you have tested and the results.
The built-in thermostat could be malfunctioning and preventing the coolant coils to absorb heat.
Sometimes the defrost drip tube can become blocked. This generally runs down the back into a drip tray. You should be able to check for blockage by thoroughly cleaning the tray end of the tube and blowing through it. Don't ****.
I hope this helps,
jenni.

Try removing everything out of your fridge, switch it off and open all doors for 12 hrs. Then close doors and switch it on for another 24 hrs before putting in you stuff. most likely the evaporator is iced up, you need to defrost if fully.

You either have a bad compressor or a bad compressor relay. As Todd, the other tech said, you need to find an authorized service provider if it is less than one year. They will fix it for free.

The problem is a buildup of ice on the plastic housing (the curved plastic bit) in the back of the freezer under the fixed shelf where the icetub goes. The fan behind this plastic housing is hitting the ice when the defrost comes on.

Unplug the fridge, unpack the freezer, remove the four screws in the back, take off the sheetmetal backing and let the fridge thaw. You can remove the plastic piece after a while and get the ice off (be careful not to remove the styrofoam insulation by going too quickly).

Reassemble and you're back in business, for a few months. I'm never buying Samsung again myself.

Have you got a screw loose. One which holds the door light switch. is it the switch which buzzes?. I had a fridge which didn't get cold. When I scrapped it I found that the retaining ring for the switch was not tight enough and r4ealised that the light had been on when the door was closed.