Question about Thermador SECD302BPSS Electric Double Oven

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Thermador Built in oven scd302 not heating upper oven, lower oven fine. Heating element not glowing red as the oven below it does.

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  • Thermador Master
  • 19,396 Answers

Hi.

Problem is usually either temperature probe or heating element.

Grab a multimeter and set it on impedance (Ohms).
Remove first temperature probe and then heating element.
If either probe or element is reading open (ohms infinity), then replace the part.

If both probe and elements are not open, then the problem is either wiring or oven electronic control. The most common fault resulting in no heat is the temperature sensor located inside the oven cavity.

Regards.

Ginko

Posted on May 31, 2011

  • eagrant2 May 31, 2011

    Thank you for your quick response. I neglected to mention that the broiler does work, so I am guessing it is the element?
    Thanks

  • Ginko
    Ginko May 31, 2011

    When problem is the sensor both broiling and baking element do not work. If problem is only one element, then it is usually the element itself. Most oven elements read between 20 and 50 Ohms. If the element is bad it will usually read open (the element is broken). If element is good, problem is usually wiring, ERC (control module) causing only this problem and nothing else is possible but not common.

    Regards.

    Ginko

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I have an 8 yr old thermador scd302 double wall oven. Top oven started not heating up (wouldnt go past 240), but then worked a couple of times. Now it just stays at 100. Broil and convection do not work...


THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
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I have a Fridgidaire Model # PLEB30S8CCC wall oven. The broiler works fine. The oven is very slow to heat up, 20 minutes to reach 250. I checked the lower element with a omp meter it read 20. Is that...


Hello there and than you for choosing Fixya
If your oven does not heat, does not heat enough or does not broil, a common cause is a burned out heating element. There are two elements, the baking element on the floor of the oven and the broiling element on the ceiling of the oven. They are about the diameter of a pencil and typically supported by metal stand-offs.
This easiest test you can do is to turn on the oven and observe the heating element. If it glows red, the element is working. When baking, the broiling element may come on to assist with preheating or to maintain the oven temperature. When set to bake, if the broiler comes on, but the baking element does not, the likely cause is a burned out baking element.
When set to broil, the broil element should glow red, but the bake element typically is not used. If the broiler does not glow, it is likely a burned out heating element.
There are other possible causes of these symptoms, refer to our diagnostic page for some other possibilities.
To test the heating element using a multimeter, follow the steps provided below.
  1. Unplug the oven or turn off the power at the breaker or fuse box.
  2. Follow the heating element back to where it goes through the wall of the oven. Remove the bracket that secures the element in place.
  3. Unscrew or unfasten any stand-off supports that secure the element to the oven.
  4. Pull the element part way out to expose the oven's wiring connected the element.
  5. Label the wires and secure them in place so they do not fall back into the cavity.
  6. Disconnect the wires from the element.
  7. Using a multimeter set to x1, touch one probe to each of the element contacts. Expect resistance in the range of 20 to 40 ohms. Infinite or kilo-ohm resistance usually indicates a bad element and it should be replaced.
  8. If the element tests okay, reconnect the wires, slip them back into the cavity and resecure the element.

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If you don't get heat to either the upper or lower heating element, then I would suspect the wiring or a control.

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Or the contacts on a control/switch could be bad. I would test this with a continuity tester or ohm meter.

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