If your car's computer is reporting an error code, there should be a small light under the passenger's side of the dash that is blinking. This light will blink a certain number of times and then pause, then blink the same number of times again -- this is how you find your error code. Count the number of blinks in a cycle and then look it up in your User's manual or a Haynes manual to find the error code number. If you cannot find the blinking light, or if you don't have the time to look it all up or whatever, a mechanic should have a device that he can hook up to your car's computer to get the error code (you might even be able to rent one of these code readers from Auto Zone to do it on your own (the clerk at the store can help describe how to use it ... they might even help you with it in the parking lot).
SOURCE: Santa Fe Code p1529
I am sorry the above codes is general error code , the error your
getting is car specific hence the codes where not there in the list:
P0715
Input speed sensor system
If no output pulse is detected from the input shaft speed (PG-A) sensor
for 1 second or more while driving in 3rd or 4th gear at a speed of 30
km/h or more, it is judged to be an open or short circuit . In the
input shaft speed sensor and diagnosis code P0715 is output. If
diagnosis code P0715 is output four times, the transmission is locked
into 3rd gear (D range) or 2nd gear as a fail-safe measure
P1529
TCM MIL request signal, this code sets in the computer engine control module when there is a transmission fault code
SOURCE: Santa fe
P0102 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low Frequency
P1702 TPS - Abnormal
P1702 TPS - Malfunction Adjustment
P1703 TPS - Low Input
P1703 TPS - Open/Short (Ground)
SOURCE: 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe Error codes BB1,BB2,BB3,
EVAP system is a very COMPLEX system. There is not enough time or space here to adequately diagnose your problem. Components involved are Canister Close Valve, Charcoal Canister, Canister Filter, Purge Contro Solenoid Valve, Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor, EVAP tubes & hoses, Fuel Pump Gasket, fuel tank itself, check valves, Electrical Wiring to and from the ECM and components. Best solution: Pay diagnistic fee and have professionals diagnose problem. This way you'll know EXACTLY what the problem is and what's required to fix it (parts, labor, tax, time-frame, etc.).
SOURCE: 2006 hyundai santa fe stereo wiring color code
I was given two Lanzar 6.5 and two Pioneer 6.5 speakers. There is nothing wrong with my stock speakers, I just wanted to add a little more thump and clarity. I took off the front drivers side interior panel, Which wasn't all that bad, but i'm having major problems putting it back together. I'll get into that a bit later. I figured swapping the old for the new would be simple. Being it has two wires (pos/neg) going to the driver/speaker cone and two wires going to the tweeter portion that goes over the lower part, four wires total. The wires are White, Brown, yellow, and Black going into a black clip, then they turn black coming out the other side. I cut the four after the clip. My new speakers have only two posts to accommodate the driver and tweeter. So I left off the two for the tweeter and it sounded awful. I tried combining the two positive and two negative and hooking it up that way. That too sounded awful. The tweeter was squealing and chirping. I tried every configuration. They all sounded like ***. What am I doing wrong. I know people swap out stocks for after market all the time. I wanted to be sure my new speaker wasn't defective, so I tried all four (Both brands) with the same results. So I gave up and put the original back in. It sounds fine, just like it had before. But now I can't put the door panel back on. I know it's just tricky and i need more patience. I'm so bummed. I have these great speakers and have no idea why I can't install them. Do I need some aftermarket clip? It seems so easy, why is it so flappin hard? I've done this with other cars in the past with no issues. This four wire thing is killing me... Please HELP ME!!!!!!!!
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