I have an old yamaha MX-800 amp and a yamaha CX-600 pre amp controler and when i plug the pre out of the CX-600 pre amp to the input of the MX-800 amp and turn them both on it makes a buzzing nouis, it doesnt stop untill i unplug the pre amps rca conection or tun off the amp. it still buzzes even if i turn off the pre amp. but when i bypass the pre amp and go straght from the CD player to the amp, it works fine and doesnt buzz. Whats wrong?
HI SIR .THAT IS NOT BIG PROBLEM.ALL YOU HAVE TO DO MAKE SURE THAT YOUR PRE HAVE THE FLL.1 PROPERLLY EARTHED(THE GROUND FROM YOUR AMP ALSO GOES TO THE PRE )2 ASK YOUR ELECTRONIC MECHENIC TO CHECK IF THER'S NO BROKEN GROUND ON THE BOARD INSIDE.
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Hey man, pull the plug wire off to see if there's spark when u crank it - if not then check there's a thin wire with a lug on the coil pack - if wire is on & not damaged then have the coil pack checked
my guess is that the yamaha has pre-amp outs, most yamaha stuff does, and that is the one you should be using for the main, and hooking up to the onkyo, and letting the yamaha be your zone controler, and the onkyo be your remote amp for your second zone (if your onkyo had pre-amp outs it would work how your trying to do it, but it dont) so exchange there places, and run a pre amp out to any input of your onkyo, and you'll have total volume control of your outside speakers
Yes amps buzz when something gets near them - say a pen or probe and if you know what it is safe to touch a finger! Fortunatly for you the left channel is the same as the right. So if you believe it's the pre-amp work backwards from the where the power amp connects to the pre-amp, going through the pre-amp stage by stage - prodding the parts. Remember a buzz in the right a buzz in the left! No buzz in the left but one in the right fault found! Ignore the power supply it's nothing to do with that as it's common to both channels.
Start with the basics first. 1. With the amp on, in each imput socket plug a dual end phono cable in and touch the right and left plugs with your finger. You should get a buzz on each speaker. No buzz and the channel at that terminal is not working. If none of the terminals buzz. Then the amp is dead.
If some buzz and others not you have a pre-amp problem.
2: Amp Dead. Could be A power supply. B main pre-amp. C Power Amp.
The power supply check for a fuse.
The main pre-amp will only effect both channels if an IC controls both.
The Power Amp will again only loose both channels generally if it is an IC. It will be attached to a big heat sink and have lots of pins comming from it.
If it uses transistors for the main amp, you can check these with an Ohm meter. With the power off place the leads on each terminal of each transistor. If the meter goes fully over (like when you touch the leads together) each way it has shorted.
The thing to remember when repairing stereo amps. Is that the amp is two identical amps joined together. So what happens one side will happen on the other. If both channels don't work look for something that is common to both.
PS never heard of 'cliperd'.
It sounds like you want to use the external amp rather than the internal one. If that is the case, just connect the output of the EQ to the input of the external amp. All you are doing is inserting the EQ between the amp stages now. Using the mx-1 rather than the internal amp is no different.
the buzzing is indicative of an open ground connection, check the cord by substitution or with an ohm meter, if the cord is good look at the connections to the jack inside the amp ( im guessing you built the amp from a kit). Is this a solid state amplifier? Tube amps have lethal votages and should not be experimented on without knowledge of electronic safety. Also if there is more than one input to the amp try plugging the guitar into another one and see if its still the same.
I would recommend a high power 2-channel amplifier, minimum 16 guage speaker wire, and of course the Bose 901 active EQ that matches the series of your speakers. I use a Yamaha mx-830 power amp & cx-830 pre amp 170 wpc They (Bose) claim that they're unlimited power handling, But if you use a amplifier with to little power and overdrive it to make it louder, you could damage the speakers or amp. With my 170 watt class A amp,the 901 series 6 will blow wind across the room. Go with the best amp you can afford! best for money- Yamaha,Denon,Onkyo!
Call Universal Remote Control, Inc. Headquarters 500 Mamaroneck Ave. Harrison, NY 10528 Technical Support 1(800) 901-0800
They do not repair the MX 3000 remote anymore but they will replace it for $400 when you send them yours. We have some replacment screens and can repair it for $300 even on pre 2005 models.
Extreme Home Cinema 303-359-9035 firstname.lastname@example.org
IF your amp has a phono input, you need nothing special. If all you have is aux inputs or an extra tape input, you need a phono pre-amp that will increase the signal level to that of a cd player or tape player. These are simple pre-amps that cost around $20.