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If the unit is running all the time and is not freezing everything then open the back fiberboard panel and clean out the coils in the back. Check to make sure the condenser cooling fan is running also. If the compressor is running and the condenser fan is not running there is a problem with the condenser fan. The compressor, condenser and evaporator fans all should be running at the same time. the condenser fan can be stuck... have dry bearings... of simply has failed. Before removing the back cover... touch the chassis were the doors close... it should be warm but not VERY warm to the touch. If it is VERY warm to the touch... for sure you have a problem with the condensor fan.
Since you did not say anything other thanthe fridge is working whit out stop, I have to assume at this point that the evaporator fan is running in the freezer compartment just fine.
I really need to know:
1. Is there ice in the back of the freezer compartment?
2. Is the evaporator fan running?
3. Is the condenser fan running?
4. Are the condenser coils clean?
One of the above has a problem... you just need to identify which one.
The unit needs two fans running and good airflow, one fan outside cools the condensor coil and the other inside the unit blowing across the evaporator coil, warming it. The compressor must start up. The defrost timer stops everything and switches on a heating element to defrost the evaporator for several minutes. Please verify these conditions. The condensor coil may get clogged with dirt and lint, the evaporator may get clogged with ice build up, or the fan may quit working due to bad bearings, need for lubrication, or burn out. The defrost timer has an internal motor and contacts which may quit working, some have a way to manualy turn it to switch its mode in case it quits working.
Since you did not provide a model number... this will be a generic / not unit specific answer.
Running all of the time can be caused by several things. Two of the most common reasons is either the condensor fan area in the lower back of the unit has a problem. (lint, fan not running) or the evaporator fan in the freezer is not running. (Fan, ice build up on coils stopping fan)
If the unit is not defrosting properly the evaporator coils freeze up and air can not pass through the coil area. This results in the freezer beening cold and the fresh food compartment to slowly warm up.
Open the doors of your unit and touch the facing area where the door gasket seals. I should be warm to the touch but should NOT be very warm to almost hot. If it is very warm / hot to the touch it will confirm my comments above.
UNPLUG the unit
Clean the condensor area in the bottom of the unit. Use a crevice tool and something NOT sharp, NOT metal and NOT pointed to clean the coils. Old paint brush, big cable tie etc. Make sure the condensor fan is running after you plug the unit back in. A note on powering up any refrigerator.... anytime power is remove you must wait 15 - 20 minutes for the coolant system to stabilze or the compressor will not start.
If you note ice build up in the freezer compartment do a manual defrost by unplugging the unit, placing a fan directed at the freezer compartment (less freezer contents) for just over 2 hours. It makes a water mess so be ready to tend to drips and puddles. After 2 hours and clean up.. return the unit to normal service.
After doing the above the unit should operate normally for at least 2 days. If it continues to operate normally great. If after a few days it starts acting up again suspect that the automatic defrosting function is not working properly and have the defrost system checked.
Most of the time there is an automatic defrosting problem when the freezer starts warming up. Ice builds up on the evporator coils.. airflow gets restricted and the temps warm up. Check to see that your evaporator fan is running at full speed. If it is then do a manual defrost by performing the following steps:
1. Unplug the unit
2. Remove freezer contents
3. Place a fan blowing air into the freezer compartment for a little over 2 hours. (Makes a mess... rags and Mop time)
4. After 2 hours wipe out any residual water...
5, Plug in unit
6. Reload freezer.
7. Check temps in 4 - 5 hours.
If temps are normal you have an Automatic defrost problem.
Causes can be:
1. Defrost timer / control
2. Defrost Heating Element
There are other causes but timer / control or the element in a 10 + year old unit are the normal failures.
Do this step before the manual defrost
Make sure that the condensor fan in the lower rear part of the unit is running at FULL speed.and that the condensor coils are free of lint and debris. If the condensor and fan are loaded with lint it will cause warmer operating temps. Clean as needed.
If after you do a manual defrost and the temps come back to normal for at least 24 hours you will need to troubleshoot the auto-defrost circuit. If you need help at that time just respond here and I will help you.
Check the temperature setting Assure that there is enough room for air flow in the freezer or freezer Check for air flow restrictions in vents Test the temperature control Clean the condensor coils Check the door seals Test the door switch Test defrost heater Test defrost timer Test evaporator fan Check for a clogged drain tube Check for refrigerant leak Freezer is too cold
Check the temperature setting Test the temperature control Clean the condensor coils Check the outlet voltage Test the condensor fan Test the compressor relay Test the overload protector Test the compressor motor. Hope this help in solving the problem. take care....
Check to see if your evaporator fan is blowing in the freezer, then check your condensor fan behind the back panel. If those are both running make sure your coils are clean underneath your fridge. Cold goes down heat goes up, that's why it is warm up top and cold down. Start there. Good luck!
so you mean the vents in the refer/frezer sections? yes ok there is a fan in the frezer section that moves the air thru out the box.its called the evaporator fan.you should hear a vissssss sound when you open the doors.some boxes you have to push the door switch closed with finger because fan goes off win door open.test fan with volt meter,should get 110 volts[may have to push that door switch in when testing]if voltage and not turning get new fan.hope that helps God bless ,tom
Sounds like a cold control. It is located behind the panel and can be ohmed out to check for proper operation. You need to remove the light shield then after the shelves have been taken out remove the two screws that hold the fan shroud in place. This will allow back panel to come for so you can check the cold control. It should read as a short in all positions except off when the cap tubes have come to ambient temp. If you get the back off and see ice on only a small portion of the evaporator you have a sealed system problem and need a qualified technician.