When baking banana bread I battle to get the right heat and time settings. 1 hour @ 180 = raw on the inside, burned outside if i leave it in longer. What is the correct settings please?

The cheapest would be to go buy an oven thermometer. A couple of dollars. Set oven at 350. Put thermometer on the oven rack. Put in a cake pan, etc with water in it. Let be 15-30 minutes. Then read the thermometer. You can tell by how much it is off.
Really, what might have to be replaced is the thermostat. That constantly trying to kick in would be the ticking noise.

Have you tried to turn the oven on to preheat and observe that the upper and lower heating elements alternately go on and off? Could be that 1 of your elements is burnt out and need replaced.

It's possible the lower bake element is not working. If the oven takes a long time to come up to temperature, that's a good indication that a baking element (bottom, broil element is on top) is bad.

Get a bread maker, they well and it sounds like your oven isn't working properly.

Hi.

the oven may have locked in consequence of the self cleaning cycle.

After unplugging, allow the oven cooling down for few hours.

If the is still locked, then the high temperature generated in self cleaning cycle may have damaged temp probe, door latch, or electronic control.

Parts must be tested to discover the fault.

Call Kenmore at the number listed on the owners manual.

Regards.

The Taylor oven thermometer you bought is decent at best. It is most likely the sensor inside the oven. Has your clock displayed any fault codes? F, followed by a number? Changing the sensor will probably correct the problem.

good day,
hope this link below will solve your problem.

baking.

The best bread machine we've found for gluten-free bread baking. Programmable feature puts you in charge. Bakes a delicious 1.5 to 2 pound loaf every time. It has a viewing window, automatic settings for breads, cakes and jam, sourdough starter and programmable cycle that makes gluten-free bread in under two hours!

Hi Jeff. You should have a wiring diagram with the range. Check for an envelope on the back of the range, inside the back splash, or taped to the inside side wall of the range if you remove the lower drawer. That all being said, first check to see if the start or stop time knobs on the timer have been pushed in (and possibly turned). If the clock runs, it will clear this out within 12 hours, but on these old ranges often times the clock no longer runs. Make sure these knobs are turned until they have "popped" out or you won't get the necessary voltage where you need it. Secondly, when a bake element burns out, it can cause damage to the electrical contacts in the oven selector switch (part number WB22X5122 ) which can be tested with an ohm meter if you can find the electrical diagram. Also, the oven thermostat (part number WB21X5320 ) can be damaged in the same way. Unfortunately, these parts for these old units are not very cheap.
The little bit of heat you are getting in your oven now is most likely only from the 120 volts going to the broiler element when in Bake. During Bake, your bake element should get 240 volts (until thermostat is satisfied). Setting to Broil should give 240 to the broil element.

Can you replace the elements?

Sounds like the igniter is not operating at full capacity. What happens is that the oven does not light when it should. Instead, the oven is cooling down much too far so when the oven does light it has too heat more rapidly. This causes the outside to brown/burn long before it should.