Door on RM2652

If your Dometic refrigerator is a tri-power model (12V, 120V, lp gas), check all modes. It is not uncommon for these units to fail to cool adequately in 12V mode, as that mode is only for KEEPING things cold while on the road.
If the failure exists only in 120V mode, replace the 120V heating element. If the failure exists only in lp gas mode, replace the burner and make sure that the jet is clean.
If the refrigerator does not get cold in ANY mode, verify that the door seal is making good contact all the way around and, if it is, you'll need to replace the coil assembly. (They are available on eBay and Amazon at a fairly reasonable price.)

If you can hear the coils "circulating" you have a leak in your cooling unit. If you can hear a boiling like sound from the cooling unit it is a tell tail sign that the unit is bad and needs replaced. If you take a look through the access vent on the rear of the fridge you will more then likely see the yellowish residue located around the burner area. This is the common spot for these models to leak. The unit can be easily replaced within just a hour or two with no specialized tools or previous knowledge required. I will attache a copy of our RM2652 installation instructions to view, Please contact Arcticold for your New replacement cooling unit with a Lifetime warranty. 1-888-782-6665 Our Online Store

or Visit ArctiCold Refrigeration We keep it cold


Our install video for that model is

You will first want to ensure the RV is level.
If the RV is level, then open the rear access vent door on the side of the RV to access the rear of the refrigerator. Feel the coils just above the tank on the cooling system. These coils should be warm to the touch. If they are warm and the refrigerator is not cooling then you will require a replacement cooling unit. Also, the most common area for the Dometic 2652 to leak is just above the propane burner area. If it has leaked, you should see a yellow residue in that area. The cooling unit can be changed in approximately 2-3 hours with no specialized tools needed (Arcticold offers 7 day a week free tech support). The old cooling unit will simply unbolt and the new one bolts in. Check out ArctiCold Refrigeration We keep it cold (the highest quality product available) Arcticold New Cooling units come standard with a Lifetime Warranty. Install instructions are also provided with the cooling unit. Arcticold has locations across North America to provide fast delivery. Arcticold cooling units may be purchased over the phone (1-888-782-6665) or through Ebay- Dometic RM2652 Brand New Manufactured Cooling Units LIFETIME WARRANTY


#1 Help Diagnose Video
#2 Install a Arcticold RM2652 Cooling Unit Video

Remove the two screws holding the latch/handle assembly on. With the door open, roll the handle outward toward the edge of the door. Then install the new handle assembly.

If you open vent/cover outside and listen, then switch to propane operation, do you hear it clicking (trying to light) at all? ( make sure it's calling for cool such as leave door open for a while prior)

the hinge is not plastic, only the insert sleeve that goes into the hole atop the door is plastic. If the actual hinge (metal arm) is broke, then you need to order a new part (not difficult if frig is 20 years or less). If you cannot find the part, go to a metal shop and show them the broken part, they usually can repair it or remake a new piece.
If the hole in the door went bad (that is: if the hole tore open and cannot hold the hinge pin) you need to have a metal repair brace added to the door. This will involve the metal shop or a good mechanic that can come to you and do the neccessary repair at the house; otherwise you need to bring the door to the metal shop. macgivor

HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.

Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. CAUTION: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.

The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.

Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. thsi will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.

Next will be the door switch. The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. if the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well.

This will conclude the most common issue with a under preforming unit. I would advise to check all the above and, if the unit continues to not cool after all the above adjustments are made, i will recommend replacing the cold control device,thermostat and main circuit board.../

it's constantly running because it's never reaching optimal cooling temperature.

you need to check the seals around the doors for leaks.

you need to vacum the dust away from the coils

your thermostat may need to be replaced if not cold enough or too cold.

Carefully check under rubber seal to see if it has screws. If it doesn't then panel should just pop off. The rest should be straight forward. Remove and replace blower.

I have had the same issues. I have owned my LFX25960 for 18 months. All the cooling, noise, and condensation problems are related to 2 fans. One for the freezer/refrigerator compartments and One for the Ice Maker. The fans, apparently, are not sufficient to move enough air through the coils located behind a plastic panel in the freezer compartment. The part numbers for my fans are 1. Ice Maker 4681JB1029E and Refrig/Freezer 4681JK1004E. It is not impossible, but fairly difficult to replace them yourself. You have to remove the large slide out freezer drawer and glides. Then work the back freezer panel loose from the bottom. Be careful not to break it. It is plastic.
Routine maintenance: Pull the refrig out from the wall and blow-out the coils and fan located on the lower right rear. You might find it easier to do this by removing the cover on the lower, back of the refrig.