Question about GE Profile JK955SFSS Electric Double Oven

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I have a GE JK955SOK1SS IN-Wall/Cabinet double oven and have checked the power going to the unit outlet but the oven does not turn on at all. Is there some fuse or something in the unit I can check?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Powerman
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SOURCE: ge double wall oven repair

You need to tell us the model number. I can then give you specific information.

Posted on Nov 18, 2007

  • 184 Answers

SOURCE: Wall Oven does not fit flush into built in cabinet

I HAVE SEEN SOME CABINET MAKERS BUILD A TRIM PIECE THAT GOES ALL THE WAY AROUND THE EXISTING HOLE THAT HAS AN OUTSIDE DIMENSION LARGER THAN THE CABINET HOLE AND AN INSIDE DIMENSION TO FIT THE REQUIREMENTS OF THE OVEN. IT ATTACHES TO THE FACE OF THE CABINET AND STAINED TO MATCH THE CABINET FINISH.

Posted on Apr 10, 2008

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SOURCE: GE double oven wall, JKP85B0A3BB

I would start by checking all of the door switches. Once you remove the shell, you will see them all on a rail where the door latch goes. Some will be normally open, some normally closed. If they all check out, check all of your overloads and thermal fuses. They should all read closed. If they all check out as well, replace your magnatron, capacitor, and diodes.

Posted on Oct 25, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: whirlpool rbd275pdb double wall oven died during self clean

The first time we used our Whirlpool oven the same thing happened - no power and yet the circuit breaker was not blown. I called Whirlpool, and they sent out a technician to check it out as it was still under warranty. He said the temperature was off (too hot) by 20F - he adjusted. He also replaced the blower. What he did not tell me was that the thermal fuse had blown, and he replaced it - this was the REAL cause for the failure. I got the impression that he did not want to let me in on the secret. He did not note on the paperwork that he replaced the thermal fuse. Last week I decided to run the oven through the self-cleaning cycle (the oven is now 8-1/2 yrs old) - I don't believe that we cleaned the oven but a couple of times since the first time that it was "repaired." I used the default 3-1/2 hour setting. Everything appeared to be fine - the oven went through the cleaning cycle with no apparent problems. The display now read "cool down" - I went to bed thinking everything was okay. I got up the next morning only to find out that the power was out. I called Whirlpool and demanded that they repair the unit again as they clearly never fixed it correctly in the first place. They offered me 15% off on a new oven - WHOOPEE! I asked to speak with the supervisor - he did not budge either. I was upset, and I told him that I would NEVER purchase a Whirlpool appliance again! I decided to tear into the oven to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled out the front panel - everything looked okay. I then noticed the "thermal fuse" - I did not know what it was called at the time, but it looked familiar. I checked voltage on either side of the fuse and found the voltage to be zero on the downstream side of the fuse. I pulled it out and read the information on the device: Microtemp 110C. I called a local appliance repair shop - they told me that it would cost $50 to purchase a new fuse! I told them that seemed very high. I ended up stopping at Radio Shack. They have thermal fuses in various temperature and voltage ranges. I got a 144C 10A fuse and carefully soldered the connectors to it and replaced the protective plastic sleeve. I actually bypassed the thermal fuse in order to use the oven before I found the replacement fuse. While it is a good idea to have a protection device for the slim chance that an oven may malfunction by overheating, it is not a necessity for the functionality of the oven. Hopefully, the thermal fuse will not fail during my next attempt to self-clean the oven. I do have a concern about the 10 amp rating, but I'm sure that it will work fine.

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

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Forgive me for saying this, turn the unit off wait 30seconds, then turn on again (this sometimes works)

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