Question about Craftsman 8.50 Torque Rating Dual Rotating Tine Tiller

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Craftsman front tine 536-292522 - on left side of transmission shaft, about 2/3 from bottom, I have chipped off either a bolt or a lubricant stem, and about 1/3 of the hole and internal threads that keep the item in place. The casting is damaged. I don't see any fluid inside but it may have run out of the transmission. The tiller still runs, but the tines only turn if I push them forward while the tines are touching the ground (in other words they may turn if I start them turning). But they stop turning after 5-10 seconds or with any modest resistance. I'm trying to find out if the hole now open was for a bolt or for adding lubricant. If it was a bolt, as long as I can get fluid into the transmission, I can JB Weld shut the hole. But I need the type of lubricant. If the hole and threads (female end) were for a fluid lube inlet (screw?) do you know if I can order a replacement lube inlet screw/nut? If so, I can try to JB Weld the new replacement part in place, then add fluid after the inlet is sealed. Can you advise? I can't see the left side transmission image at sears parts direct or mylife.com.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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pranaclimbin
  • 50 Answers

SOURCE: Yard Machines/Tiller

the tines are usually connected with shear bolts designed to break away when u hit something as a safety precaution so that u dont break anything in the transmission. its common that people dont know this and replace them with normal bolts. if this was done and the tines are not moving now chances are uve got a snapped gear shaft

Posted on Dec 04, 2008

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trippssmengi
  • 76 Answers

SOURCE: Craftsman Front Tine Tiller 6.0HP/26" -- can not start it

First check for spark, if you have spark than you can try spraying a little fuel into the carb and try to start it if it starts then dies its the carb

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

steve_lima
  • 181 Answers

SOURCE: what type of lube is used in 917-294261 tiller gearbox?

80-90 gear lube

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

  • 300 Answers

SOURCE: rear tine tiller craftsman model 917293480 who made this thing

http://www.autocarrepair.net/Transmission-Repairs.html
click the link

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: Help, new craftsman rear tine tiller stopped tilling.

It sounds like the belt just stretched. Now you need to move the belt tensioner over to put more pressure on it.

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

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My Maytag A9700 is leaking from the bottom of the outer tub. I have changed both the tub bearing and the stem seal but it is still leaking - even more than before I started. My question is whether I


If the boot seal was properly seated onto the outer tub lip, then you should focus on the water seal (#39 in the graphic - it should have come with the mounting stem kit) as the source of the leak. Extra care must be used when installing this over the agitator drive shaft - some recommend adding a lubricant (Maytag center seal grease works well) to the shaft before sliding the mounting stem (and water seal) down onto the agitator shaft. Also, check the two sealing surfaces where the top of the boot seal (#40) meets the bottom of the mounting stem (#30). Look for cracks, chips or any bits of debris. Anything that keeps those two surfaces from meeting perfectly will cause a leak. These repairs should go fairly smoothly, but leaking water seals and chipped boot seals can cause problems.
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1 Answer

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-Check the locking bolt that hold the tine shaft to the main shaft. Possibly it's broken. If so replace new bolt. you should be good to go again.


Good Luck


mai

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I have a Craftsman 17" rear tine tiller with


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1 Answer

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CRAFTSMAN TILLER


That sounds like a "look see". Unless something has wrapped itself around one of the shafts causing resistance (Like a wire, or nylon twine or even certain types of vines...you'd be surprised how well they can hide around tiller shafts both drive and tines causing all types of hidden issues) it may need lubrication. But from here...I'm blind and deaf on this one. Sorry but I'd have to be there with you on one like this.

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1 Answer

Tiller will go into every gear except forward/till..whats going on?


check the shift lever where it goes into the transmission. a lot of times, the lever will get sloppy where the roll pin goes through and it won't shift into till. sometimes you can drive the roll pin out, pull off the lever and peen the holes over. sometimes you have to drill the lever and shaft and put in a snug fitting bolt and nut. OR, the chain driving the tines is broken, and that means a new transmission. hope it's simple

Jul 19, 2009 | Craftsman 8.50 Torque Rating Dual...

2 Answers

I have a lazy boy tiller with chaine drive, its liked locked up. it will not engage, any help please ! it does have aplace to put oil on the side of the chine drive house. what kind of oil would it take?...


The gear box can be removed, reset and resealed using gasket magic. It is not a quick fix and during this process I also replaced the tine shaft seals as I had lubricant leaking from the gear-box to the tine shaft. When you are tilling you should avoid rocky areas. It iseems sudden tension due to bouncing is what knocks the chain loose.

DO NOT remove the belt pulley from the top of the gear box. It is unecessary. You must remove the entire assembly from the rear of the machine. It is set in place by 6 bolts and come off as a whole unit. Once it is removed then undo the three bolts and spacers that hold the case in place. Remove the case from the frame by sliding it out the open end. You will have to remove all of the bolts around the outside of the case; a cordless drill really comes in handy here. Lay the case on its side, as you remove the bolts you may experience lubricant dripping from the centers of the removed bolt holes, or at the center holes where the case connected to the frame. This is not a problem as you will need to replace the 90 weight lubricant after you have resealed the case anyway. Once you have removed all of the bolts, using a flathead screwdriver and a mallet or hammer. break the seal around the outside of the case. You may have to go around a few times, but eventually it will pull apart revealing the sprockets, bound chain and remaining lubricant. Since it is open this is an ideal time to check for wear on sprockets and remove any large debris from the case. reset the chain so that the tine shaft moves freely and the corresponding sprockets spin as you move the tine shaft. Using a gasket sealant (Gasket Magic**) put a thick bead of sealant in the center of flat outside edge where the two sides of the case come together. Add a little extra around bolt holes. Replace the two covers snugly together and begin finger-tightening the bolts back into the crank case. Once you have completed this task, go back over the bolts and tighten with a hand wrench. Once the case is back together allow 45m to an hour for the sealant to completly harden before introducing lubricant to the system. Then reattach the case to the rear assembly and then put your tiller back together.

This occurrence seams to be an issue with these machines, however the problem is avoidable as it is persistant use in rocky or hard ground areas which causes causes the system to jump and bind. If you happen upon a hard patch of earth or rocky area, go slow, do not force the tiller and remove any large debris when possible before tilling.

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4 Answers

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4 Answers

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Put the tiller in a vise clamping on the bottom of worm gear housing. Remove worm gear housing cover. Clamp the worm gear at the top with a vise grip (I think Kuya Jon is correct in that you could skip this step because the transmission won't move when unscrewing, but I did it anyway just in case). Put a pipe wrench on the left tine shaft and unscrew it like it was a normal bolt. It's in there tight and it will take some force. When I unscrewed mine, the left bearing seal retainer, left bearing seal, and left bearing all came out with it. I just needed to replace the seals. I went to the right side, and with a screw driver carefully pried out the retainer. Then it's easy to just pull out the right seal with your finger. Put a new right seal in and insert the right retainer. Make sure the retainer is facing the correct way. I used a block of wood to tap mine in once I had it positioned because I was afraid to hit the retainer with a hammer. Now I put the tine shaft back in while holding the worm gear with the vise grip. Screw the shaft as far as it will go by hand and then go the rest of the way with a pipe wrench. Now came the tricky part. The right bearing did not slide right in. There was some resistance. I had to use a 1/2" threaded pvc pipe (not sure it needs to be threaded but that's what worked for me) longer than the tine shaft that was sticking out. I slip the pipe over the shaft against the bearing and tapped with a hammer. This drove the bearing in all the way. It needs to go in far enough to leave room for the seal and retainer. The plastic pvc allowed for this. Now put the right seal in. If the outer edge of the seal is only flush with the housing you did not tap the bearing in far enough. I made this mistake on my first try and tried to force the retainer in. Take it from me. It won't work. You will end up ordering another retainer to replace the one you mangled. Once in properly I slid the retainer over the shaft and then put a washer over that to tap against. The block of wood doesn't work on this side because the shaft is in the way. I used my pvc pipe again to tap against the washer and, wala, it worked like a charm. I hope this helps someone. All the other posts really helped me. Thanks!

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1 Answer

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