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Pc wont switch on, i was using it and it switched off and wont come back on. i have checked the usual, electric supply, fuse etc

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  • Tom Dew Mar 28, 2009

    My PC was having a delayed reaction to me pushing the power button and the PC switching on, then one day, i pushed the button and it never turned on, i have tried replacing the lead, refixing the 'Power SW' Pin on my motherboard and taking off the front panel and checking the power wire, i have also tried to secure all the power input leads from the power supply to various slots on my motherboard and components.



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Have u tried to unplugging the power supply harness from the mother board and removing the battery then press the power button and then replace the battery and the motherboard wire harness and then try to restart

Posted on Aug 17, 2008


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We have no power to our kenmore dishwaher. Lights won't come on checked fuses an no power.

First recycle the D/W, 120VAC Circuit Breaker(C/B) which is usually located in your Main Electrical Fuse Panel and hopefully properly labeled. The C/B supplies power to the D/W. Recycle the C/B to see if it will restore D/W operation. If not then you must verify that 120VAC input power is present at the D/W electrical junction box, located behind the D/W Kick Plate/Cover You will have to remove this cover and use a Volt meter to check for 120VAC being supplied to the D/W. If 120 VAC is being supplied then .... The door interlock switch(s) may be BAD. The D/W inner door panel will have to be removed. Usually, there are two micro-switches, the wires are usually Black (Hot 120VAC) and White (120VAC Neutral). These switches are incorporated into the door Latch Mechanism/Lock and disconnect power to the D/W motor and electronics .... that is why when you open the door, the D/W stops operating. Also on the back side of the D/W Control Panel... there is the Electronic Control Module (ECM)( with electrical components and circuitry. On the (ECM) there maybe a Thermal Fuse mounted with (2) plug on wires. If the Fuse is OPEN, it will be necessary to replace it. For troubleshooting purposes, the !20VAC power to the D/W must be removed. Use an OHM meter to check the mircro switches and the Thermal Fuse located on the (ECM). There are additional thermal fuses located on the bottom of the D/W near the motor. They should also be checked and replace them if they are OPEN. Hope these suggestions help you! Good Luck! Handy Henry

Mar 23, 2016 | Kenmore Dishwashers

1 Answer

No power is getting to the board at all. it appears to have no fuse, where the fuse should be is a little brown cylinder shaped object T4A 250v it is soldered to the board. is this my problem?

Hi Michael
Your certainly doing all the right things. I wish more people on this site would give a great description like yours.
OK, so Process of Elimination.
An AC Multimeter would prove useful here.
Assuming your fairly technical and are aware of electric shocks.
Use the meter on AC scale to check for 110 or 240v AC inside your TV power supply section.
Does it get to the board? Does it get to the Switch Mode Power Supply?
Switch Mode power Supplies can be powered up by a normal AC type switch (ac wires to physical switch) or a Logic type switch. (Like on a computer Keyboard) This triggers the Switch Mode to turn on. Usually you get a high frequency zip sound.
Is the switch mode supply open on the PCB or is it in a Metal Enclosure? (perhaps has a separate fuse inside) the Electrolytic capacitors inside here are in a harsh environment so this is where they leak or bulge.
If the Switch Mode Supply doesn't come to life then you have the problem.
The other side of the Switch Mode Supply is lower DC voltages. Perhaps 12v or 5v. Use the multimeter to check.
A logic type switch usually stores a voltage in a capacitor on the secondary low voltage side of the Power Sup. When the logic switch discharges the cap it fires up the SM Power Supply. This is how computers boot up. So look for bad cams on low voltage side.
See where wires come in from switch to Power Supply.
Good Luck

Jul 03, 2015 | Hisense Refurbished 50"" 1080p LED-LCD...

1 Answer

Turn the key and nothing happens. But, I can turn the switch to on and cross jump the relay and start the engine.

You could have any number of defects causing this problem.

If the starter works when you short across the relay, it's clearly not that, but it cloud be the relay itself, which is not uncommon. You can test to see if the relay is engaging by supplying electrical power to the smaller positive connecter on the relay using a piece of wire direct from the battery. If that works your problem is in the electrical supply from the starter switch, which is usually part of the ignition switch. For example, if you engage the start position with the ignition on, you should get an electrical voltage at the small terminal on the starter solenoid that you previously shorted with the bit of wire. The starter circuit will be protected by a fuse or circuit-breaker, if the problem is with the electrical supply to the solenoid/relay then you need to check the starter fuse or circuit breaker. If the fuse looks intact you need to check it with a meter as looks can be deceiving. If the fuse checks out as good then the problem is either the starter switch failing to make a good contact or a break in the wire between the switch and the solenoid/relay.

If you decide to check the starter switch, it is not uncommon to find a voltage at the switch but due to bad or dirty contacts in the switch, insufficient electrical current will pass to engage the solenoid/relay. This will of course be the same when you check for electrical supply to the relay, that is why you need to try to engage the relay with a remote bit of wire. Unless you can dismantle the switch and clean the contacts you may need a new switch. So, check the wire from the switch to the relay. If you remove the small positive wire at the relay and attach your remote power supply to the end of the wire, taking care to insulate the connection to prevent it shorting on anything else, you should get an electrical power reading on your meter at the start switch. If you don't you have a broken wire or connection. Sometimes it's easier to run a new wire and isolate the old one, if this is the case and you can't find an obvious break in the connection. Rgs. Bob

Jun 21, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

HotPoint model# RB787WC4WW : Clock is functioning, all lights are on, but the burners and oven won't function. Is there a fuse or relay on this model ,and if so where is it located. I've taken the...

your oven may be on a 3 phase connection that mean you have 3 supplies to it.
one phase may be running the clock and fan etc.
the other two maybe for the burnters .
check in your house fuse or trip switch box and ensure that all trips are on and or fuses are not blown. this is usually where your electic meter is located.

if this is the case switch the circuit back on, if the fuse goes again this may indicate a fault either in your home or with your oven. if so call in an expert to check.

warning. high voltage electricity is dangerous if unsure call out a qualifed electrician or speak to your electicity supplier for advice.

i hope this was useful

Dec 11, 2010 | Hotpoint Ovens

1 Answer

Maytag Dryer DE210 wont start


This fuse is often mounted within the exhaust duct in the back panel. It is about an inch long, and is usually found within a white plastic housing. When fuses blow, it means they have no continuity and no power will flow through it. A bad thermal fuse needs to be replaced.

Good Luck and have a nice day.

Jul 02, 2010 | Maytag Dryers

2 Answers


Try checking the fuse for the blinkers, if it's intact then you'll need changing the blinker switch arms on the steering wheel. Good Luck

Feb 08, 2010 | 2002 Ford F150 Regular Cab

2 Answers

Does it have a fuse we got hit by lighting and now the Pc wont power up

To fix the problem, you need to disassemble the power supply, replace the burnt out fuse, & also check the bridge rectifier section for burnt out rectifying diodes (these usually get burnt out if the high current gets the chance to leak past the fuse, which could sometimes happen). If you find burnt out rectifying diodes, you will need to replace them as well, as they could burn out the fuse again when you try to use the power supply while they are still there.

Dec 20, 2009 | Codegen : 350W ATX Power Supply With 12cm...

3 Answers

No power

There may be a fuse in the power supply. It is a lot of work to get the thing open to check but probably worth it if the fuse is blown. On the other hand, it blew for a reason, and after you replace it, it will likely blow again unless you can find the reason for the first failure.

Note, there are lots of dangers connected with going inside your e-machine or any other computer for that matter. Among then - Static discharge - bumping connections loose - not remembering how to reassemble - dangerous voltages in the power supply.

Use extreme caution and take pics with your cell phone of everything you do.

I hope you find this to be of some value.


Sep 27, 2009 | E-Machines eMachines Desktop PC

1 Answer

Dead appearing ups/inverter

keep on your main switch. off all the lights fan and other electrical items, let that inverter get charge first

Jun 18, 2009 | APC Back-UPS CS 500VA UPS System

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Your appliances will charge up no matter what time of day/night it is if they are turned on unless they are wired so as to only come on during Econ7. Usually this through a separate supply out of the meter to that part of the fuse box [split load type] or to a 2nd box supplying only those appliances. This area is your responsibility.
Try testing the power supply tails with a volt stick. It's a non-contact neon indicator about the size of a thick pen
If during Econ 7 period you appliances are using electricity at the higher [day] rate, - & it doesn't matter how they are wired in [see above] - call the power supplier. The meter belongs to them.& is their responsibility.
Maybe wise to check the meter readings at times both day & night with appliances both on & off

Dec 25, 2008 | GE 3.2 cu. ft. Washer

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