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Dryer will not heat...replaced the high limit thermostat and still no heat

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Bypass the thermal fuse, disconnect it and tape spades together, test only as it is a safety issue if left bypassed it can cause a fire, Tim

Posted on May 29, 2011

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Kenmore dryer blows cold air. I replaced heat element still no luck? model 96263800


It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when an electric dryer stops heating. The heating circuit is not just composed solely by the heating element, it is composed by the thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, motor centrifugal switch, and the timer. The first thing to look at when an electric dryer stops heating is the thermal cut-off. It cuts power to the heating element when it blows most likely due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off must be replaced, together with the high-limit thermostat, if found open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top and with Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating

Mar 25, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

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No a kenmore 80 series dryer will not heat . if the heating elment is good & fuse is good what else could be the problem


The heating circuit is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The problem is very likely in the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat located on the blower housing. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and cuts power to the heating element. Both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat need to be replaced if the former is blown open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this kind of problem.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating

Mar 09, 2011 | Kenmore Elite HE3 Steam 8676 Dryer

3 Answers

LER4634EQO Whirlpool Heavy Duty Extra Large Capacity 4 cycle 3 temptures My dryer is not heating. I have checked the breaker(s). There is not much lint around the dryer in the back or the vent, what...


The problem is likely in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make.

jahn27_43.jpg

The
thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit thermostat are sold as a kit with part number 279816 and costs about $30.

In case the dryer still doesn't heat up with the
thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit thermostat bypassed, bypass the cycling thermostat then replace it if the dryer heats up. Check the heating element for broken coils if the dryer still doesn't heat up with the three components mentioned above bypassed.

Feb 10, 2011 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Where would the fuse be and how hard to get to, is it in the upper unit? From behind? or lower unit? Running but no heat.


The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

jahn27_42.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the front.

jahn27_43.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

Feb 01, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer quit heating no power to element what is wrong?


The problem is most likely the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and since these parts are wired in series with the heating element, power to the heating element is therefore terminated. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off and if it reads open, replace it along with the high-limit thermostat.

You can bypass the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat for troubleshooting purposes. Join together the wires of each part and insulate it properly then reconnect power. The two components indeed need to be replaced if the dryer heats up. If not and still no power to the heating element, check the continuity of the heating circuit. Check the continuity/resistance of the heating element if there's power to its terminals but doesn't heat. Replace the heating element if it reads open.

Let us know if you need further advice. Just indicate the exact model number of the dryer for accurate troubleshooting tips.

Jan 23, 2011 | Kenmore 700 6972 Dryer

1 Answer

Model RES7745PQ0 works great but no heat... what is most likely the problem... also I checked my breaker so that's not it...? HELP\r\nBest Regards


The problem is likely in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make.

jahn27_43.jpg

The
thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit thermostat are sold as a kit with part number 279816 and costs about $30.

In case the dryer still doesn't heat up with the
thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit thermostat bypassed, bypass the cycling thermostat then replace it if the dryer heats up. Check the heating element for broken coils if the dryer still doesn't heat up with the three components mentioned above bypassed.

Jan 19, 2011 | Roper Dryers

1 Answer

Model LEQ9508PW1. It has stopped getting hot. Just stopped putting out any heat. I assume that it is probably the heating element that has gone out. Is there anything else I should check first before...


Check first the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect the power then start the dryer. The problem is in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make.

jahn27_43.jpg

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat up with the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat both bypassed. If the dryer still doesn't heat up, take the heating element out and inspect it for damage. Replace the heating element if damaged.

Jan 18, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Dryers tumbles but there is no heat


The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

jahn27_42.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the front.

jahn27_43.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.


Dec 31, 2010 | Kenmore 600 6965 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have an older Kenmore gas dryer model # 97260100 it heats up for 15 minutes then goes cold, drum continues to run can u give me any insight as to what needs to be replaced


The problem is either of the cycling thermostat, high-limit thermostat or the gas valve solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valve assembly. Disconnect power then verify any of these condition by bypassing the thermostats. Refer to the image below and locate the thermostats.
jahn27_16.jpg
Note: This is an image of an electric dryer but the thermostat and the thermal cut-off (cut-out) locations are the same.

Disconnect each of the thermostat wires then connect and insulate them properly. Once done, reconnect power and start the dryer. The gas valve solenoid coils are indeed faulty and both need to be replaced if the problem still persists. Click here for the procedure in replacing the solenoid coils.

Gas Valve Solenoid Coils Replacement Procedure

Either or both of the cycling thermostat and the high-limit thermostat are malfunctioning if the dryer continues to heat up with the thermostats bypassed. Disconnect power then reconnect the cycling thermostat wires but keeping the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The high-limit thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the cycling thermostat is the culprit.

Also do the other way; that is reconnecting the high-limit thermostat wires but keeping the cycling thermostat bypassed. The cycling thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the high-limit thermostat is the culprit.

Replace the faulty thermostat and it should solve the problem.

Nov 08, 2010 | Kenmore 72872 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Have a kenmore model # 110.72822101, where's the thermostat located, my dryer gets hot then cold


The cycling thermostat or the high-limit thermostat may not be the problem but rather the gas valve solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valve assembly. Disconnect power then verify this condition by bypassing the thermostats. Refer to the image below and locate the thermostats.
jahn27_15.jpg
Note: This is an image of an electric dryer but the thermostat and the thermal cut-off (cut-out) locations are the same.

Disconnect each of the thermostat wires then connect and insulate them properly. Once done, reconnect power and start the dryer. The gas valve solenoid coils are indeed faulty and both need to be replaced if the problem still persists. Click here for the procedure in replacing the solenoid coils.

Gas Valve Solenoid Coils Replacement Procedure

Either or both of the cycling thermostat and the high-limit thermostat are malfunctioning if the dryer continues to heat up with the thermostats bypassed. Disconnect power then reconnect the cycling thermostat wires but keeping the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The high-limit thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the cycling thermostat is the culprit.

Also do the other way; that is reconnecting the high-limit thermostat wires but keeping the cycling thermostat bypassed. The cycling thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the high-limit thermostat is the culprit.

Replace the faulty thermostat and it should solve the problem.

Nov 08, 2010 | Kenmore 72822Gas Dryer

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