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I need to replace the vertical shaft top gear (163328) in my touch & sew 640 - not sure how to disassemble the machine to replace the part - any guidance available?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a Singer 478

This is an easy fix. a lot disassembly required, you will need to gain access through the belt side to the singer cover plate,four clips hold it on from the back side. Once that is off, two screw hold small access plate which is under the letters Sin, remove plate, rotate shaft to access screw through opening which holds Vertical Top Shaft Gear, Singer # 155819 in place. Remove bottom cover, locate belt pulleys (2), remove cam tensioner, with a hex wrench remove pulleys, this makes it easier to remove lower belt. with a long thin, blade screwdriver, loosen screw on gear (through small access cover), slide shaft downward Rand R gear, reverse process, done. Be sure you document removal, take pictures, mark references with marking pen.This makes reassembly easy. I just replaced mine, I am handy but not an expert, hope this helps you...

Posted on May 22, 2011

cardenderek
  • 783 Answers

SOURCE: need to know the posotion

will send walkthrough. and diagram.

FixYa

Posted on Aug 27, 2011

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I got this for my daughter in law. The machine bunches thread up underneath material. I have tried moving the upper tension, rethreaded (with pressor foot up) the needle & bobbin. I have changed...


the tension at bobbin seems to be the problem, make sure bobbin thread is in placed in bobbin CORRECTLY...then it should not be loose but loose enough to pull out with the slightest pull, top tension should be set on around 4,,,,,

Feb 28, 2014 | Singer 4411 Heavy Duty Sewing Machine

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Timing after installing new belt


There are about 3 MAIN delicate issues here, could be needle bar, top shaft or bottle shaft, to understand timing first knowing that needle hook is passing the cusp of the needle on its way up....

Feb 25, 2014 | SewShop.com Singer Model 758 Touch & Sew...

1 Answer

Hi I have a Janome 419S or 423S, the problem seems to be my hook race unit keeps getting loose and then the thread jams up. What can be done? Please


A jammed machine is caused by thread being caught in thehook. Remove the upper thread and the bobbin case, turn the hand wheel towardsyou (counterclockwise) by hand and remove any thread in the bobbin case area. Alwaysturn the hand wheel towards you. Turning the hand wheel away from you(clockwise) can cause the machines timing to become unaligned and jam yourmachine. Also, always make sure the presser foot is in the down position beforeyou start sewing. Sewing with the presser foot in the up position will jam yourmachine in the bobbin case. If youhave an older model sewing machine with a shuttle hook, then you can alsofollow these: 1. Disconnect the sewing machine from any power source.Loosen the thumb screw on the left side of the sewing machine body and removethe cover to expose the needle bar. This is the shaft that extends down andthat you attach a needle to for sewing. Open the shuttle race and remove the bobbinand bobbin case. 2. Turn the hand wheel toward you until the needle hasreached the lowest point of the stroke. The hook should be at the top of itsstroke inside the shuttle race. Loosen the set screw for the needle bar on theupper part of the machine, this is located on the needle bar bushing (thecollar that the needle bar slides through when making a stitch). The needle barshould slide easily up and down. 3. Turning the wheel again, adjust the position of the tipof the needle so that the upper part of the needle eye is just below the bottomedge of the hook inside the shuttle race. Once in position, re-tighten the setscrew on the needle bar bushing. Do not allow the needle bar to slip whiledoing this. 4. Replace the bobbin and bobbin case and close the shuttlerace. Thread and plug in your machine. Using a sizable scrap of cloth, sew aseam to check to see if there are any skips in the stitching. If there arestill skips re-adjust the timing again until you can sew without any skipped stitches. 5. When proper timing has been achieved replaces the coveron the needle bar and tighten the thumb screw. Hope this will help you. Good Luck.

Sep 13, 2011 | Vacuums

2 Answers

Brush is not turning


Ok, first make sure there is nothing jamming it up or keeping it from spinning, if not flip it over and remove the silver bottom plate with a philips head screwdriver, now notice also there are gray plastic caps on each end of the roller brush, if you look on the top of those you will see one large plastic screw on each end, turn those and they will release those end caps and you will be able to remove the brush assembly in two pieces. one short and one long one. They are connected into a black plastic cover that house the drive gear. Now look into each of those two pieces and see if the hole where the drive fits is wallowed out. That is what usually happens to these and they are replaceable, I got mine for free because I bought the ext. warranty. And of course check those two silver shafts that come out of the gearing and make sure they are good and tight. They should turn with good resistance. You can always turn on the machine at this point and make sure they spin, if they do then one or both of those bushes needs replaced, if they do not you may have a inner gearing issue that will require you to take off that other plastic clear piece above with some star head driver. take care and good luck

Mar 08, 2011 | Dyson Ball DC24 Bagless Upright Vacuum

1 Answer

I have a Singer 478 sewing machine and need to replace the top gear on the verticle shaft. Is there a repair manual for doing this. There was not category expert on this so please direct to the correct...


This is an easy fix. a lot disassembly required, you will need to gain access through the belt side to the singer cover plate,four clips hold it on from the back side. Once that is off, two screw hold small access plate which is under the letters Sin, remove plate, rotate shaft to access screw through opening which holds Vertical Top Shaft Gear, Singer # 155819 in place. Remove bottom cover, locate belt pulleys (2), remove cam tensioner, with a hex wrench remove pulleys, this makes it easier to remove lower belt. with a long thin, blade screwdriver, loosen screw on gear (through small access cover), slide shaft downward Rand R gear, reverse process, done. Be sure you document removal, take pictures, mark references with marking pen.This makes reassembly easy. I just replaced mine, I am handy but not an expert, hope this helps you...

Jan 27, 2011 | Vacuums

7 Answers

My Hoover steam vac spin scrub model 4060-900 brushes are not spinning and I have lost the manual. Any ideas. Thanks. bushteachers@yahoo.com


The problem I found with one a neighbor was tossing out is the bearings in the part that drives the brushes were stuck. Lubing them up solved the problem, but took a bit of work to get into. This also provides a good chance to clean the crud out of bits that usually don't get much attention. I found mine clogged with a fair amount of pet hair.


You'll need a Phillips & Flat Screwdriver, some light machine (3-in-1) oil or Lithium (white) grease, and a lot of patience. Having a pan or something handy to keep all the little bits organized would help.


First remove both the soap & recovery tanks, they'll just get in the way & are designed to be easily removed & replaced for filing/dumping. Be sure to fold the "wings" for the recovery tank in or they'll foul removing the cover later (as will the brush speed button).

The tricky part is getting the Brush Speed knob off. It's held on only by friction, but can be tough to pull for without breaking the plastic stick it's pushed onto.


Remove the brushes. There are 4 blocks between the outer & next in rollers. Put the flat screwdriver between the gray & clear plastic, pushing gently toward the brushes. This pushes a wedge away far enough from a hole in the gray plastic to "unhook" the brush housing from the main body. Once all 4 are clear, the brush assembly should pull out easily.

Remove the 2 big screws in front of the brushes and the one at the back of the clear plastic front of the vacuum bit. The small ones at the extreme front corners hold on the clear plastic front, and can be removed if you want to clean out the vacuum channel, but are not necessary to remove to remove the top.

Toward the back sides of the top are 2 slots that hold this part on. Once the front screws are removed & the front is loose, push the side in gently & you should be able to lift the back of the cover. Push in lift both side, the top should pop right off.

Now I have the top off, holding 2 black & 1 silver long screw. In the center-front of the new-exposed guts is a box with a round top & a cone at the front with 2 screws.

This is the Brush Motor Assembly, and it's actually vacuum-powered. Remove the 2 screws holding down the from, then look for 2 large holes on the bottom of the unit behind the black "squirter bar".

There's very long screws at the bottom of these holes that also hold down the brush motor.Once the 2 bottoms screws have been fully loosened & the top-front screws removed, the brush motor should pull up easily.

On the right is a square port, in front the the brush speed stick (where the gray button pops onto). on the left is a gray & black hose, these should pull off easily, but may have some liquid in them.

Pull out the brush motor & set it on a convenient spill-resistant work surface upside-down. You should see the square-hole drice for the brushes, a gray piece of plastic, & a cresent-shaped hole.

The port at the front & hole on bottom provide an air path for the vacuum to poll air through this assembly & spin the brushes. You should see 2 screws at the back of the motor & 2 more at the bottom of holes surrounded by the gray plastic. Remove all 4 screws.

You can now pull off the bottom cover with the gray plastic. Front to back you should see the brush drive gear, an intermidiate gear, ant one of the bearings for the fan that drives the whole thing. pulling out the bearing & gears to clean out this area & lube up the gears with some Lithium Grease helps, as well as making sure the bearing is well lubed with 3-in-1 oil and/or lithium grease.

The top is held on at this point with 4 platic clips. The top doesn't need to be removed unless you *really* have to see the fan. The clips can be broken off if one is not careful, and there's nothing in there to be lubed. Best to leave it as-is.

At the top of the driveshaft is a second sealed bearing. I couldn't figure out how to get it out without braking it, lube this one in place. The bearings are supposed to be sealed, so removing the black "washer" from the bearing is done completely at your own risk. I just put some oil on there, spun it to work it in, then repeated with the white grease.

Replace the intermediate gear, the brush drive gear, then the lower sealed bearing in that order. You can spin the gears to ensure they're spinning well. Mine was OK, but after a bit of use worked the grease in & the brushes really started spinning.

Keep in mind everything here except the screws is plastic, be creful to get a snug fit with the screws without overtightening. "Gorilla-ing" the screws will just break the plastic & make the whole adventure an exercise in frustration.

Reattach the bottom plate with all 4 screws, 2 in the holes in the gray plastic, 2 in the back.

Reattach the gray & balck hoses to the left side of the brush drive. They're 2 different sizes, so there's only 1 place the smaller hose will fit easily. Place the assembly back in the machine & replace the 2 screws in the front.

Flip the machine up so you can put the 2 really long screws back into the underside of the brush drive. There's 2 guide slots on either side, make sure the brush with the indicator wheel on top goes into the big hole on the right. You may need to spin the brushes a bit to get the center squure stick to line up with the hole in the drive gear. The brushes should pop back in easily if everything's lined up right.


Put the top cover on, making sure the Brush Speed stick & center screwhole line up, as well as the back sides snap into place.

Screw down the top, then flip the unit up so you can snap the bottom-front of the top over the gray wedges on the front, then screw into place.

Replace the Recovery Tank, fill & replace the solution tank, and test-drive.


Vanger Chevane.

Apr 19, 2009 | Hoover SteamVac F5914-900 SpinScrub...

1 Answer

Handwheel is difficult to turn


The difficult turning is a symptom of a bent shaft, which is jamming on it's bearing surfaces. This problem will need the atttentions of a sewing machine mechanic. Operating the machine in this condition will likely cause further damage.

Apr 14, 2009 | Vacuums

1 Answer

The brushes stopped turning


just repaired mine today same problem.
Turbine drive shaft which drives two sets of plastic gears and which in turn make the scrub brushes rotate has sealed ball bearings and I guess from an evidently poor design moisture some how entered plastic gear casing and the sealed bearings froze up which evidently aren't sealed all that well. Anyway (turbine drive after easy removal from unit 8 screws on bottom one on top can be disassembled by removing 4 screws around gear casing allowing access to the plastic drive gears and the bearings) You can make a decision from there of whether or not a new replacement turbine is a better way to go.
The entire turbine unit can be purchased online for a very reasonable price if you look around the Web.

Dec 19, 2008 | Hoover F7431-900 SteamVac Vacuum

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