I bought a Gecko Heatpress from ebay also about 4 months ago. Now I can't get the power to stay on. We can shake it, move it and it comes back on for a minute then shuts off again. I have my first show next Sunday 6-5-11 and I need this heatpress repaired ASAP! Can anyone please tell us what to do?

SOURCE: Power and sound turn off after 15 minutes

Is the red light blinking in the front of the tv. Counnt the blink sequence then I can give you more info.

SOURCE: Misfire

One question, have you replaced the ECTS (Electronic Cooling Temperature Sensor)? These cause no end of different seemingly unrelated problems on Saturns. Peice is about ten bucks and is an easy install. Just search on youtube for a how-to video. Even if that's not the problem it is reccommended to replace this peice just the same as they ALL end up going bad at some point.

If that's not a fix, start pulling plugs. Check to see if they're correctly gapped and if they have any damage/corrosion. If you're running Platinum plugs, immediatly change to a copper plug as Platinums have no place in these motors. Most people have the best luck with NGK copper.

Check to make sure that your plug wires haven't been crossed. This sounds like a plug or wire issue most likely so it has to be in that family, if the plugs are good, wires good and not crossed, sensors are fine, then time to replace your coil packs. If you've replaced everything up to the coil packs then that is most likely the cause of your dillema.

SOURCE: Sony KDF-E55A20 shuts off for 30 seconds, then comes back on for 30 more

Do just as the others said pull out the bulb and clen the screens on top and bottom of bulb. BUT you can also prevent this from happening as soon the next time. You need to take off the back of your sony tv. On the right rear as you are looking at it there is a black blower on top that is on top of where your bulb fits in. you need a ninety degree phillups head screw driver. take the driver and take out the 3 screws... use a can of air to clean it out... You would not believe the holy hell dust stuck up in that blower!!!! Like I said, take the back of your tv off. If you are not sure where the bulb is once you get it off just turn it on. It's not going to hurt ya. If you are lazy about taking the blower off you can turn it on and shoot the can of air while the bulb is on but you are going to have to take the bulb out ALOT of times to get the dust out of the screens over and over until no more dust collects

SOURCE: tv shuts off when you turn it on again it will play a minute

I think this might be bad/swollen capacitors in your power supply, or something odd in the +5VDC circuits of the power supply, but I am posting all of the things I have found so far with these TVs.

Here are few possible solutions:
If you have no red light and you have a Megmeet MLT386 power supply, check these parts:
1) Swollen caps on the PS secondary circuit (may cause the red light blink or shutdown problems).
2) Blown fuse F1 (5A/250V) this is caused by a shorted FET at QA1 (20N60), you may also find that SMT cap CX23 is burned up (.001uf) which is in parallel with diode DA2 which may be damaged/shorted, replace these components.
If the power LED goes from red to green when powered up but no picture, then it might be lost +24VDC from the power supply:
3)Check fuse F2 (3.15A/250V, I put a 5A in), if it is blown, replace FET at QA2A (9N50C), replace QA2 as well (9N50C). Check SMT resistors at R233,R234,R235,R236 (.47 ohm). If open, replace with .1 ohm 1W or 2W resistor (easier to source). Also replace SMT transistor QF1 (2X4 or 2N4401 NPN transistor). And replace diodes at DS2 and DS1 (HER207), DS2 was shorted, DS1 was ok but I replaced it anyway.

I dont know as much about the Megmeet MLT169A, but it has similar problems and similar components.
4) I had to replace all of the capacitors in the secondary circuit (there are six in a 3x3 row marked EC9 (1000uf35V),EC10(1000uf35V),EC14(470uf35V) and EC18,EC19,EC20 (all 1000uf35V).

OK for the Megmeet MLT169A with red flashing LED when turned on we found that IC7 was bad. This is an SMT component on the solder side of the power supply. It is a 4407P (P channel 30V MOSFET). For testing purposes, we jumped across it to feed +5V to the TV permenently instead of allowing +5V to go into standby.

SOURCE: I have an RCA DLP M50WH72S tv. Powers up, picture

Hello; I am John at J D Electronics in Poland Maine. I have had an RCA model M50WH72S setting dead in my shop for over a year now and is now mine. The set would start intermittently and run for an hour and die. Other times it would not start at all and the LED would flash 5 or 6 times and stop. With no support from Thomson/ RCA, I was on my own. The extended warranty Co said to try the light engine first. I replaced the light engine with no improvement, just the led flashing. I was not going to pay 500 to 700 dollars for other boards to try to fix this piece of JUNK.I have since read several blogs that point to power supply caps as being the problem. I took this piece of junk apart for the last time before I hauled it to the dump. I pulled out the power supply on the left as you face the back of set. I noticed 2 Electrolytic caps had " domed shaped tops ,which is a good sign of failure or overheating. They are 1000 ufd @ 35Volts 105 degree rating. They were both bad along with 2 more on the same board ! They are labeled CP624 and CP647 on the bottom edge of the board inside the "c" shaped heat sink. The other two are above the chopper transformer labeled CP641 @ CP639. replacing these fixed the set. Call DigiKey 800-344-4539 part # 493-1588 are ten for $7.00. Don't spend money on a lamp you don't need.