Question about Smartpool Dolphin Robo - Kleen Above Ground Robotic Pool Cleaner

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Removed circuit board enclosure to trace voltage. Opened enclosure and found water in it. Jumped 32 v power to pump motor and motor works; also jumped power to drive wheel motor and drive motor works. Need new circuit board box. Where can I get one and how much do they cost. Does some one have a Robo-Kleen that doesn't work they want to sell as a "for parts only" unit??

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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thepatioman
  • 52 Answers

SOURCE: My Robo kleen stop working at the end of last

Sounds like you have found the problem. Change the Black Pack. Not sure the pack is available as a seperate part. Suggest you contact Robo Kleen for that info. http://74.84.137.218/website/manuals/RK01A.pdf

The Pool Tech

Posted on Jul 10, 2010

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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: My Robo Kleen motor is running but the wheels do

There is a plastic gear in the drive motor that has a pin that goes through it and the drive shaft, this pin actually wears a slot in it from going back and forth and stops driving the unit.
You can probably hear the driver motor cycling forward and reverse.
i have photos of a modification to fix this

Posted on Aug 06, 2010

jharwell668
  • 640 Answers

SOURCE: Robo Kleen pool cleaner troublshootong

One thing that you might want to try on these pool cleaners is removing the limit screw on the axle for greater angle of tandem wheels. Make sure your filter bag is not clogged or partially clogged because this cause restrict movement. Check for debris jammed in your drive system (wheels, axles, etc.)

Posted on Oct 07, 2010

jharwell668
  • 640 Answers

SOURCE: what is the output amps on robo kleen transformer

Here is the users manual for these pool cleaners. You might be able to locate the information you are looking for there in the parts specification manual.

http://www.backyardcitypools.com/Pool-Cleaners-Automatic.htm

Posted on Oct 12, 2010

  • 155 Answers

SOURCE: We need a motor for

First remove the top vent cover (4 screws) and check to make sure the impeller can rotate.. excess debris can prevent it from turning.

I am not aware there is more than one motor on this unit. It should be a single 24Volt motor.

You can contact the mfg at Smart Pool (Maytronics)

email - mailto:info@maytronicsus.com

But I don't see spare parts listed anywhere.

Local Dealer locator

http://maytronicsus.com/en-us/where_to_buy/store-locator/


Lastly.. you may be able to locate a motor once you have determined this one is indeed bad.. at a local electric motor shop. They can test it.. see if it's repairable or replaceable.

Wish I could help more than this.

Best of Luck

Posted on May 01, 2011

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1 Answer

Loc error code Frigidaire frontloader


From the frigidaire site.

Error code - Fault condition

E11 Fill time too long.
E13 Water leak in tub or air leak in air bell.
E14 Reed switch.
E21 Water not pumping out fast enough.
E23 Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E24 Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E31 Better models. Pressure sensor not communicating with control board.
E35 Better models. Pressure sensor indicates water overfill.
E41 Control board thinks the door switch is open.
E42 Door remains locked after cycle is completed.
E43 Control board problem.
E44 Control board problem.
E45 Control board problem.
E46 Control board problem.
E47 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is open in spin.
E48 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is closed.
E52 Bad signal from tacho generator.
E55 Motor overheating.
E56 High motor current.
E57 High current on inverter.
E58 High current on motor phase.
E59 No tacho signal for 3 seconds.
E5A High temperature on heat sink.
E5B High temperature on heat sink.
E5C High temperature on heat sink.
E5D Communication problem.
E5E Communication problem.
E5F Communication problem.
E67 Input voltage on microprocessor incorrect.
E75 Better models only. Water temperature sensor circuit.
E76 Better model only. NTC temperature for the cold water valve over the limits.
E95 Communication error.
EB1 Incoming power frequency out of limits.
EB2 Incoming line voltage above 130 VAC.
EB3 Incoming line voltage below 90 VAC.
EF1 Clogged drain pump.
EF2 Too much soap.

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wow...that is unusual...nothing on the panel, nothing with the printheads moving?

that would suggest that the internal control board is blown..

let me check my service manual on that..

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Tip

Frigidaire Affinity Common Error Codes. (E4A, E9E, E56, E46 and more)


Hi.

This error codes apply to Frigidaire Affinity washers and dryers:

E11 - Fill time too long.

E13 - Water leak in tub, or air leak in air bell.

E14 - Reed switch.

E21 - Water not pumping out fast enough.

E23 - Drain pump relay on control board failed.

E24 - Drain pump relay on control board failed.

E31 - Pressure sensor not communicating with control board.

E35 - Pressure sensor indicates water overfill.

E41 - Control board indicates door switch is open.

E42 - Door remains locked after cycle is completed.

E43 - Control board problem

E44 - Control board problem.

E45 - Control board problem.

E46 - Control board problem.

E47 - Control board is sensing the door PTC circuit is open during spin.

E48 - Control board is sensing the door PTC circuit is closed.

E4A - Program Timeout Fault.

E52 - Bad signal from tacho generator.

E55 - Motor overheating.

E56 - High motor current.

E57 - High current on inverter.

E58 - High current on motor phase.

E59 - No tacho signal for 3 seconds.

E5A - High temperature on heat sink.

E5B - High temperature on heat sink.

E5C - High temperature on heat sink.

E5D - Communication problem.

E5E - Communication problem.

E5F - Communication problem.

E67 - Input voltage on microprocessor incorrect.

E75 - Water temperature sensor circuit (digital readout models only).

E76 - NTC temperature for the cold water valve over the limits

E95 - Communication error.

E9E -Voltage error.

EB1 - Incoming power frequency out of limits.

EB2 - incoming line voltage above 130 VAC.

EB3 - Incoming line voltage below 90 VAC.

EF1 - Clogged drain pump.

EF2 - Too much soap.

on Apr 09, 2010 | Frigidaire Affinity ATF7000ES Front Load...

2 Answers

My water pump doesn't work. Our unit is nearly 6yrs old and I have installed a new battery and fully charged it. I have removed the filter on the pump and rotated the impeller. I discovered that the fuse...


There is a wire that runs to the connection of the impeller pump to the unit, my guess is that it is probably touching the side of the copper element and has melted. The other possibilities are that the tiny circuit board behind that connection has come off or the connector at the other end (near the main circuit board) has detached somehow. Hope this helps

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1 Answer

32' polaroid lcd tv. no picture when you turn the set on the light turns green but i get no picture.


Possible that the voltage is not supplied to the drive board, Check the line of the +B to the main board as the controller is working as well as the power supply.
It is possible that a fusible resistor has opened out in advance but if you can trace this on.
However if you get voltage on the convergence Ic's then it might be defective in not supply the drive.

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power supply bad inside of tv

Aug 28, 2009 | iLO 2600 Television

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The recline on my power seat stopped working


I just bought a 2005 Nissan Altima that had the same problem. The motor was fine. I opened the switch and found that a trace on the small circuit board was cut/missing. I soldered it on the spot and it solved the problem. You can access the switch by carefully prying off the switch buttons, then the plate. There are two screws that must be removed so that you can pull the switch assembly out of the seat.

Jul 14, 2009 | 2003 Nissan Altima

2 Answers

Dishlex DX302SB Dishwasher water not heating, have changed the heating element without any success.


Who posted this comment I am really appreciative. I have had the same problem with my dishlex. I disassembled the plumbing and removed a chunk of plastic wrapping from inside the pump. Then I checked the heater with a multimeter. It measured fine.
The next day I read this post and have since removed the controller. I found the burnt solder joint mentioned. I have since cleaned up the mess, repaired the circuit board, re-soldered the effected component and the dishwasher is now working better than ever.

I have read elsewhere that this problem arises when the door is opened while the heater is on and the program hasn't been paused. I don't know if that is the exact cause but in my house we will be more careful about that from now on.

The damage to the circuit board was on the Normally Open terminal of the relay used to control the heater. The heater is marked as being about 2100 watts. The relay is marked as being able to switch 125Vac. Which is interesting because power here in Australia is 240Vac. At 240Vac the heater will draw a little under 10 amps when operating.

Anyway the circuit board trace is possibly a little narrow at the point where the burnt connection was and I can see why it would have burnt out. The other terminals on the relay were showing signs of becoming dry joints too. The repair was effected by completely removing the relay, cleaning all the joints, re-soldering the relay and laying a loop of tinned solid wire around the burnt terminal to replace the missing piece of circuit trace.

Anyone who has a little skill with a soldering iron could perform this repair. The worst that could happen is you could lift what is left of the circuit trace from the board. Since the controller is already broken you can have a go and probably save yourself the cost of a new controller.

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