Question about Whirlpool LSR6332K Top Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: replacing lid switch
someone, Im not finding that model number. Going by the first six digits Im assuming that this is a regular top loader and not an Oasis washer. If so, remove the end caps on the consol by pulling them off. Remove the screws under each end cap and flip the consol up. Unplug the lid switch connector and snap springs holding the cabinet on. The whole cabinet will pull forward and you can get at the lid switch. Check out the pics and post back...Catriver.
Posted on Apr 15, 2007
SOURCE: Kenmore Top Load washer
You can replace the switch, it appears, without lifting the lid. I've ordered the repair manual (LIT4314044) but I can feel the connector and wires. It appears that the lid switch can be replaced without taking anything apart. There does appear to be a screw on the back that holds the ground in place.
Posted on Jun 25, 2008
Disconnect everything, power first. Keep the drain hose above the top of the washer if the bucket’s full of water. If there are clothes in it, remove them to a water-tight location (like a cooler or something).
Put the unit on an appliance dolly and get it onto the driveway before removing the drain hose from the rear of the unit. Water will gush out for a while here.
Unscrew the two hex bolts at the top of the unit that attach the plastic tabs to the console. Unscrew the screws in the end caps that attach it to the top of the cabinet. Unscrew the two hex bolts at the base of the rear panel that attach it to the base.
Pull the console forward and up a little to dislodge it. Slide it out of the way enough to get access to the two brass clips. Put a flat-head screwdriver in the hole towards the front and pry the clip forward a little to release it. Remove both clips. This releases the rear panel from the top of the cabinet.
One cable goes from the console to the top of the cabinet: this is the lid switch. Disconnect it.
Pull the cabinet forward now that everything is detached. It helps to have someone holding the console and rear panel while you do this. Remove the cabinet.
Place it on something to prevent scuffing, like a few towels or a small animal. The lid switch is the only device here. Unscrew it from the ground (one hex screw) and from the inside of the lid (two Phillips screws). Push the grey tube holding the wires out of the clip holding it in and release the plug from the top of the lid.
Take this to a parts shop and ask for another. It’s around $25-50 depending on how desperate you look.
Snap the gray tube back in, screw in the ground and switch. Close the lid: it should click now. If not, check that you actually screwed the new unit in properly. Yes, the new one.
Replace the cabinet and the rear panel, then the clips and the console. Replace all screws and bolts. Make sure there are no spare parts. Reattach all the cables and hoses and plug power in last.
Test it by putting it on a small load and let some water into the tub. Then stop it, move to spin dry, and start it with the lid open. Nothing should happen. Close the lid (you made sure to replace the drain hose, right?) and it should start spinning and pushing out water.
Congratulations, you saved over $100 and only lost a few hours of your life doing it.
And now you know where my morning went.
Pro tip: don’t let the lid fall down anymore. Place it down, don’t drop it.
Posted on Apr 28, 2009
Common problem, Change the switch, and make sure if it is the model with a plunger for the switch mounted on the lid, that that be replaced as well.
Thank you for using FixYa
Posted on Dec 29, 2009
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