Question about Whirlpool 24 in. DU1055XTPS Stainless Steel Built-in Dishwasher

2 Answers

How to check the heater element how much voltage should there be to it

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  • gasshydro May 28, 2011

    yes i have contnuity the voltage at the element when dishwasher is running is only 33 volts is this correct

  • gasshydro May 28, 2011

    Daniel are you kidding me HOW MUCH VOLTAGE IS THERE SUPPOSED TO BE AT HEATER ELEMENT!!!

  • gasshydro May 28, 2011

    the issue is that iam trying to see why the heater does not get hot

  • gasshydro May 28, 2011

    how much voltage is there supposed to be to heater element

  • gasshydro May 28, 2011

    how much voltage is there supposed to be to heater element

  • gasshydro May 28, 2011

    thank you I checked voltage at the two wires to the element with the element unpluged I only had 33 volts is this the right way to check

  • gasshydro May 28, 2011

    I checked on the two wires to the heater with the wires unplugged from the heater and only had 33 volts sounds like i should have 120 volts is this correct?

  • gasshydro May 28, 2011

    ok thank you very much This dishwasher just wont clean alot of white residue using the same soap same amount could a restircked drain hose cause this?

  • gasshydro May 28, 2011

    thanks again this looks like it will help

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2 Answers

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  • Whirlpool Master
  • 2,605 Answers

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

If you check voltage to the heater you should find 120vac. This can be done with an ammeter as well for amperage draw placed on L1 in the junction box at the bottom of the dishwasher...you need only to remove the lower toe panel/kick plate.

If the heater is drawing amperage it is obviously O.K. The quickest and most effective way to do this is starting a diagnostic cycle. (I should mention if the heating circuit was open the "clean" light on the control panel would flash until resolved)

To do so is (should be) as follows...

HEATED DRY - NORMAL, HEATED DRY - NORMAL, HEATED DRY - NORMAL
This diagnostic cycle may take approx. 15-20 minutes to complete, if you let it proceed through to completion or you can push "cancel" after checking amperage for the heater...unless the heater itself is at fault or a wire has vibrated loose from the heater...those are steps to follow.

Let me know how you make out, please keep me informed if you need further assistance or anything is unclear. Please take a moment to rate me assistance and a short testimony is appreciated as well.

Thank you for choosing FixYa and good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Posted on May 28, 2011

  • 3 more comments 
  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald May 28, 2011

    Hello again,



    Thanks for the reply. If you check to just one lead and the other lead from your meter to chassis you should have 120vac when the heater is energized.



    If you measure across the heater when connected AND energized you should see 0vac. If you see 120vac across the heater when energized, you have an open heater, thus an open circuit showing 120vac across.



    Macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald May 28, 2011

    HI,



    I want to be sure I don't mis-guide you here, but the only time you'll have 120vac is when the control is telling the heater to come on, with one meter lead to chassis and one to heater wire. If the dishwasher is sitting there idle even with 120 to the machine there won't be 120 to the heater.



    As long as the test you are reading are gathered while the unit is running AND the heater is supposed to be on, it is conceivable you would see a low voltage reading such as the 33vac.



    If you try a voltage reading following the guide I explained in my initial post it should eliminate any doubt.



    Regards,



    Macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald May 28, 2011

    Based on your description, this is actually associated with the heating process. What typically happens is poor water circulation preventing the water from heating properly.

    To resolve this, I'd start with the following...the wash pump area. You`ll need to follow these steps to clean it.

    1 ) Remove the turbo wash tube if applicable to your model, it pulls off, i.e.


    2 ) Spray arm removal. hold the center nut and spin the arm.

    3 ) Now you can remove the upper spray arm supply tub or referred to sometimes as "rear feed cap".
    a ) lift to depress the rear tab, i.e.

    b ) Then twist the feeder to the right ( clockwise ), i.e.

    4 ) Now you can remove the center nut...



    Then remove the four # 20 torx head screws holding the filter in place, and lift the filter out.

    Below the filter you`ll find food debris, undissolved detergent etc, but also a cover with a single #10 torx head screw to remove and the cover will pull straight up and out. the arrows from left to right in the image indicate...

    1) screw location
    2) tab to pull up on
    3) the latch you may need to twist to the left to remove the cover
    i.e.

    Now you should see the chopper and screen assembly, it too can be clogged up pretty bad, clean it best you can...you don`t really want to remove this part. Make sure there is no debris present where I've indicated here with the arrow below.




    If my explanation is not clear enough, here`s a link which provides a pretty good video of how to do this, these guys aren`t pro`s but the "how to" video is pretty thorough nonetheless.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRCCrEwrs...

    Once these actions have been performed you'll need to press the following buttons in this sequence...

    HEATED DRY - NORMAL, HEATED DRY - NORMAL, HEATED DRY - NORMAL

    This diagnostic cycle may take approx. 15-20 minutes to complete. Let it proceed through to completion and you should be good to go...unless the heater itself is at fault or a wire has vibrated loose from the heater...those are steps to follow if OR when necessary.

    Let me know how you make out, please keep me informed if you need further assistance or anything is unclear.

    Regards,

    Macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald May 28, 2011

    Hello again,



    I sure hope it helps, 95% of the time this is the solution. If you are satisfied please remember to take a moment to rate my assistance and accept this here today.



    Thank you again for choosing FixYa. Have a great weekend.



    Regards,



    Macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald May 29, 2011

    Hello again,

    I thought I'd do a follow up on your progress to see what you found, it's just something I like to do when I don't hear back from someone who posted a question and not yet rated my solution or replied to my last post.

    If the solution I presented did indeed solve your problem please take a moment to rate the assistance I provided or if it did not, let me know and i'll be glad to follow through with you to a resolution.

    Regards,

    Macmarkus :)

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  • Master
  • 4,323 Answers

Hi

Please check this video, it tells you how to check the heating element:


Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Posted on May 28, 2011

  • 1 more comment 
  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott May 28, 2011

    Yes but what is the issue

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott May 28, 2011

    mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";color:black;mso-ansi-language:EN-US;
    mso-fareast-language:EN-US;mso-bidi-language:AR-SA">OK....thanks for rejecting
    the solution....I was trying to help you.....You
    should measure around 22 ohms of resistance. If you measure infinite resistance
    (open), then the heating element will need to be replaced.

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott May 28, 2011

    If you check the video ( free video) it tells you the "RIGHT WAY" to test the element.

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