I was once told that a high pressure overload can be caused by low charge to a unit. I have never heard of such thing, can you please elaborate the details of a high pressure switch for me? Please email me at Timmmmy1978@yahoo.com.
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The manual for your sprayer list several possible causes of the motor not starting, but does not indicate the presence of a reset switch. It has Thermal Overload but is reset by simply letting the motor cool.
From the manua: lProblem
The unit will not run.
The unit is not plugged in.
The pressure is set too low (pressure
control knob set at minimum setting does
not supply power to unit).
Faulty or loose wiring.
Excessive motor temperature.
ON/OFF switch is defective
it sounds like the pressure switch needs replacing as this unloads the machine from the check valve up to the heads if pressure present when trying to restart it will cause it to trip when machine stops should get air leaking from under pressure switch for 1-2 seconds then it will stop
If it is a low pressure cut off then you are probably low on refrigerant or have a dirty inside evaporator coil or bad airflow across the evaporator coil.
If it is a high pressure cutoff then you have a bad condenser fan motor, dirty condenser coil or it is over charged with refrigerant.
If it is an electrical overload reset button then the unit is pulling too many amps or over heating due to refrigerant loss and/or dirty condenser coil.
I'd wash out the condenser coil, ensure that the condenser fan is running, make sure you have a clean filter inside and that the blower is operating properly. If those things are OK and it still pops that reset then call a service tech to look it over for you.
sounds like it's cycling on the high pressure cut-out switch. Note: it could be a low-pressure switch that is causing the cycling but most units (today) don't have low pressure switches. If your unit has either of these two switches it will (usually) be the high pressure switch, although it's possible it has the low pressure switch too. My guess is it only has a 'high pressure cut-out.'
I would seriously look at the coil again and make sure you've cleaned it real good.
Many Carrier Air Conditioners have what is called a SPLIT coil. If this is what you have you will need to (WITH ALL POWER OFF) disassemble the outside unit enough to where you can manually pull these coils apart (be careful - you just need to get a small gap between them) and wash IN BETWEEN the two coils.
Pretty difficult to do - but doable.
It's possible you have an overcharged unit - but unless you've recently had it charged I would not suspect this.
If it is not the high pressure switch - and 'you do have' a low pressure switch - chances are you're out of refrigerant and you will need a serviceperson to (a) fix the leak and (b) re-charge the unit
It is very likely you are having a problem with the low oil pressure switch or the high temperature switch. Both of these are connected to the No.85 wire which in turn goes back to the control board. If the temperature exceeds the predetermined level (apprx 305 degrees F) the high temperature switch will then ground wire 85 causing the unit to shut down. Same thing with the oil pressure switch, if the oil pressure switch goes below 10 psi the low oil pressure switch will ground wire 85 causing the unit to shut down. To determine which is causing the problem disconnect first the low oil pressure switch (Located by the oil filter) and start unit if it contunues to run after 10 seconds and does not shut down then the oil pressure is the problem. Then you must use a mechanical pressure gauge connected where the low oil pressure switch is to determine if you actually have less than 10 psi of oil or if the low oil pressure switch is just bad. Try the same thing with the high temperature switch also located close to the oil filter if you disconnect it and it continues to run more than 10 seconds then you have and engine that might be overheating. Anything that gets caught in the air intake on the generator itself ill cause this unit to overheat, I've seen it **** garbage in through the air intake and cause the unit to overheat because of poor air flow. If their are no restrictions and you have good air flow than chances are you have a bad high temperature sensor.
ok, on these units, if by high side line you mean the small tube going from outside to inside, that tube is actually on the low side, the metering device is in the outdoor unit. If you shut the unit down, let everything thaw then restart and find that small tube is freezing up right at the outdoor unit right away, my guess is its low on charge. I see that you put some in, make sure it is the right knid of refrigerant. they do not hold alot. Where is your suction pressure running. If you put 2 to 3 pounds with no change, you may have overcharged but that is telling you that there is a restriction in the line inside the outdoor unit, probably the filter if it has one, or the metering device itself. Let me know what you find.
The frosting of the line is normal. Did you use a gauge set when charging the unit? AND, most important, Did you evacuate the system before putting in the freon? Very important.What was your final low side reading and your final high side reading?