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Had to replace plastic trigger piece that goes around shaft. Cant figure out about the pieces, spring going back in timmer 322 L

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  • Husqvarna Master
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I'll send you the IPL

Posted on Aug 02, 2013

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

vincob
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SOURCE: My Poulan/weed eater(FeatrerLite) will only run at

Go to psep.biz

Posted on Nov 13, 2010

traveler09
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: can't get the head off troy-bilt weedeater to replace the line.

Threads are left hand. Hold the black wheel and use large plier or pipe wrench to turn the knob cloclwise

Posted on Sep 02, 2009

  • 89 Answers

SOURCE: the pull string coil came loose cant figure out

There is a cover that you loosen you pull back the handle then youll see a clamp I think its 5/16 loosen it will move but there is a thottle cable you have to loose off the thottle on thr carberator then it will slide off ,if it is a clutch ,the clutch has to be removed by the way of the the arrow then you can get to the rewind

Posted on Nov 04, 2009

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I have an RYOBI 24V String Trimmer - RY24200. At the same time the head broke & stopped spinning, I heard something loose in the head. When I took the head apart I found 2 screws had come loose from...


This is a very late answer to your question, but I had exactly the same problem with the screws rattling around in the head. I took the casing apart very slowly because I figured there was a spring for the swivel mechanism that might fly out. The spring you describe lays in a groove on the casing piece that attaches to the shaft close to the head casing. You will see near the top of the head casing, a small, plastic pin that will sit in the end of this spring to hold it in place. Carefully set the head piece back into the shaft casing to prevent the spring from popping back out. I did this repair in about 10 minutes and I'm not even that technically adept.

Jul 31, 2011 | Garden

1 Answer

I'm was cleaning a zebco 222 {plastic reel} & a metal piece came out & i can't figure where it goes. It is somewhat a parcial c shape with like a hook at both ends of the c opening & has a tab...


it goes into a slot at the base of the plastic located near the shaft that goes to the winder. to repair, unmesh the gears and pull the winder shaft out and put C-shaped piece in with tabbed end down into slot located at shaft housing. put gears shaft back through housing and remesh gears. c-shaped piece is for lock after throwing out line and rewinding for line not to run out.

May 04, 2011 | Sport & Outdoor - Others

1 Answer

How do I install a new Handle/Latch assembly on the door of a Whirlpool LHW0050PQ 4 Wash Machine...have to remove present one as broken---pull handle door catch does not release---have to release putting a...


I had to replace part No 8182408 - the washing machine door handle. There is a plastic bar in the middle of the assembly that broke because the door was opened too hard.

There are two springs, the latch, and the plastic piece that brings it all together. The smaller spring is the key, call it the L spring. It is shaped like an L and goes around the ends of the latch. The other spring is the larger and straight and goes around the tops of the plastic piece. The straight spring goes in with the crossbar facing on the outside of the washer. The latch with the L spring fits in between the plastic crossbar with the U shaped end pressing against the latches inside bar. The antenna of the L spring needs to wrap around the plastic bar and fit inside the straight spring bar. This applies pressure on the latch to stay closed. When the handle is pulled, it releases the pressure and allows you to open the door. The Metal bar is used to hold all the pieces together and once you have the alignment right, put it back into the door with the straight spring antenna tucked in the spots on the door, as well as the metal bar ends. Screw in the two spots that holds the assembly in place and you will be set. The door should open and shut easily.

Apr 22, 2011 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

2 Answers

Loud whining during all cycles. All cycles work kenmore 24422300


First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.24422300

Also look at the Whirlpool Service Manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

There are two initial possibilities.

The first is the Motor coupler .

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission. It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts. Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes. The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning and may produce a whining noise.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135&osCsid=8eafd85bf867b2fe7d40982f5bac6c6a

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the problem isn't the Motor Coupler, the other possibility is the Agitate Cam in the transmission.

See the Service Manual for how the transmission works and what the agitate cam does.


Also see the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models use the same part numbers.

The agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Nov 03, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Series 80 washer quit spinning;makes a whir sound instead .model#11028802890


You have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.28802890

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission. It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft.

Between them is a rubber piece with six holes. The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning. You would also hear a sound from the two plastic pieces rubbing togetner.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

With the transmission out of the washer, I'd also check the clutch for wear or broken springs.

Sears has a "rebuild kit" for the clutch if it is damaged.

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


Oct 19, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

I need to rewind the spring and starter pull cord. I need to understand how all the parts fit together


I had the same problem. I had to take it apart and rewind it manually. To do this:
Step 1:
There are 4-bolts to remove on the orange plastic section the screw into the motor housing (one of them is hidden inside the orange plastic housing, you'll see an opening for it). There are also 3 screws in the black plastic exhaust housing that screw into the orange plastic housing, find those and remove.

Step 2:
Carefully remove the engine from the plastic housing. I didn't disconnect the throttle cable or the electric wires (points) just kind of worked around them.

Step 3:
The mechanism is kind of crappy. There are two black pieces with a spring in the middle, and a metal disc on the bottom with a ribbon coil on the underside of it. The top plastic piece is what turns the flywheel when you pull the cord. The spring in between connects the two plastic piece. This is probably what popped out. There is a piece sticking up on one end, which inserts into the hole in the top black plastic piece. If you remove the little guardrail things you can probably remove just that piece. KEEP TENSIONS ON THE PULL CORD. Once you remove that top black piece, it should start to recoil.

Step 4:
If it did recoil, put the spring back in the top plastic piece, and then put the plastic/spring combo back into the the bottom plastic piece, there is a little groove for the bottom of the spring to slide into. Then put the little guardrail screws back on. Make sure the big metal wire thing hasn't slipped down into the shaft of the weed whacker. That needs to go back into the motor, as it is what gets spun and in turn spins the strings. As you start to put the motor back in, you may have to pull on the pull cord a few times to get the flywheel and plastic piece to line up. Once you hear the motor start to catch, then you should be able to wiggle it back into place and put back all of the screws. Then give it a shot. If it pulls out again, you may have to drill a new hole into the top black plastic piece for that spring to slide into (this is the crappy design part).

Step 5:
If the pull cord didn't retract, you need to remove the other two pieces (lower black plastic piece and metal disc with ribbon). The metal ribbon has a nub on the outside that hooks onto a plastic piece in the bottom of the orange plastic housing. You'll need to wind it around once or twice to "charge" the ribbon, then wind the string back on the black plastic piece. The black piece should slide into the center of the metal disc and catch the inside of the ribbon. Once you get these two together, again, make sure the metal ribbon piece is wound once past normal and then you have to slide both parts together down into the housing catching the metal ribbon loop over the orange plastic nub. It's tricky, it took me a few tries. Once you get that you can try and test the pull cord, you'll see it pull out and feel it retract due to that metal ribbon. Then go back and do step 4, where you put the upper black plastic piece with spring back into place and replace the little metal guardrails.

This whole thing took a few tries, and the pull cord still gets stuck out. It's a major pain to say the least, but after the 5th time fixing it, you'll be a real pro.

Aug 16, 2009 | Homelite Mighty Lite Lawn Trimmer

1 Answer

Trouble reassembling a daisy buckmaster 840 bb gun. We can not figure out the trigger mechanism in order to fit the side panels back into place.


1) Stack the trigger, seer (long black metal piece) and trigger block (large L shaped silver piece) on top of each other, with the seer in the middle.

2) You should have 3 springs, the long one attached to the end of the seer, the skinny one on the bottom of the seer and the fat one back between the trigger and trigger block on the back side

3) Compress the trigger block and the trigger together thus compressing that spring between them, keeping everything together. Now back the entire unit into the stock cavity. This is tricky and will take some practice. Be sure to keep the pieces squeezed together.

4) Insert the pin through the side which is countersunk. It only goes one way.

Jul 19, 2009 | Toys

1 Answer

Printer rollers came off in paper jam and i cant get them back on


After a week of frustration trying to get the blasted thing back in--I could get the roller piece back in but not with the wire and could get the wire back on the little knob that holds it but that would prevent the roller piece from going in, I cut a notch in the white plastic above the spring hole so that I could, with very small needle nose pliers, hold the straight part of the sprint up while I put the roller piece in place. I then let the spring down through the notch I cut. It took a couple of tries but it all was pretty easy once the notch was cut.

Feb 10, 2009 | Epson Stylus Photo 785EPX InkJet Printer

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