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The canoe is split on each end and has a hole in the center on the bottom. I was thinking of doing a "stitch & Glue" on the ends then layering fiberglass over the hole in the bottom, layering fill in layers before applying layers that will cover the hole thus letting it retain its shape. I am no expert in this and need some advise from a professional.

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What ever you do, you need to grind down the gelcoat if it has any and get down to some fresh glass, wipe clean with acetone and have your pieces ready cut and ready to stick on, Go front to back and do the middle at the same time, this way you won't need to sand in between coats, just keep laying on the cloth, you will need some 9 oz cloth, about 4 inches wide, boat resin, acetone, rubber gloves, Popsicle sticks, measuring cups, hair paint brushes, the cheap ones, paper paint buckets, etc, staple a plastic sheet down to a piece of plywood, lay out your strips and saturate them with resin, lay them on the patch, inside and out, roll flat with a roller sold at fiberglass supply stores, like boat supplies, Let it set up, and then do some final sanding, you should be all set. I would put about 3 or 4 layers on all the holes. Make sure you measure your resin and hardener exact and make sure it is hot out, and dry if you can, no humidity, no cold weather. Hope this helps.

Posted on May 28, 2011

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I do not have a buttonhole foot, but I can tell you how I do it with the zig zag foot on the Singer 132Q machine.

1. Mark the spacing and size for the buttonholes with chalk or marking paper. This consists of a straight line with a perpendicular line at the top and bottom that lets you know how big to make the hole. There is probably a pattern piece to let you know what the spacing should be, and you can get the size of the hole for the top and bottom line by laying the button you are going to use on top of the line you draw with the pattern.

2. Make sure the bobbin has plenty of thread.

3. Put the zig zag foot on the machine.

4. Set the stitch size to 1 or maybe a little less. You want a tight stitch to hold the hole together.

5. Start at the top of the buttonhole with the perpendicular line barely visible in the zig zag foot. Think of it as placing the "T" made by the mark in the "T" made by the opening in the zig zag foot.

6. Set the needle pattern to #1 of the buttonhole pattern (2nd from the top). Make sure it is toward the top of the number to insure you get a wide zig zag stitch. If you are getting a narrow stitch, you may have to fiddle with it, but it will work. Stitch 4-6 times making sure the stitch is wide, and end on the left side of the stitch.

7. Change the needle pattern to #2 of the buttonhole pattern and zig zag stitch down to the bottom mark. Do not pull the fabric or you will stretch the stitch. Make sure your last stitch is on the left hand side.

8. Change the needle pattern to #3 of the buttonhole pattern (same as #1), and zig zag stitch 4-6 times ending on the right side this time. Make sure the stitches are wide.

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10. Change the needle pattern to #5 of the buttonhole pattern and zig zag stitch back to the bottom mark. Hand roll the last few stitches and end on the left side.

11. Raise the foot and remove the fabric. You are now ready proceed to the next buttonhole or cut the buttonhole open with a small pair of scissors or a seam ripper. Make sure you do not cut any of your stitches.



Make sure you practice on some scrap fabric of the same thickness (2 layers of fabric plus pellon) to make sure you have the size right before you sew the buttonholes on the garment.

GOOD LUCK.

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