Question about Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
yes it does something is blocking your vent either its all coiled up behind the drier or something i need to ask a few questions go out side and look at where your drier vent has a hood make sure nothing is blocking it from opening it has a little round door on it ive seen some that have little plastic screens on them that gets clogged the screen is there to keep critters from building nests in the vent line then get a flash light and look over the back to see if the vents folded over mashed etc to find out if its a vent problem take your vent loose dry a load and see if it goes back to normal if all that's ok get back to me and we will clean the drier i need to know if your lint screen is on top or in door and your model #
Posted on Jan 02, 2008
A1 Pull the dryer out away from the wall. Unhook the vent from the dryer completely. Do not put anything over the dryer exhaust on the back of the dryer. Do a normal load with the vent unhooked. If it dries better or ok like this then the problem is in the dryer venting. Like a blocked vent pipe or a smashed or restricted vent hose.
A2 - If the vent doesn't make a difference, then check the blower wheel for excessive lint build up, check that there isn't anything stuck to the air intake baffle inside the drum, (i.e. the screen on the back wall of the dryer when looking into the drum). Check the lint filter chute for blockage. Check that the heating element isn't shorted to ground. Check the exhaust temperature of the dryer. A meat or pocket thermometer can be used for this. It should cycle between 120 degrees and 170 degrees. Check that the drum seals to make sure the are not worn out.
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
SOURCE: no heat in dryer.
First, I assume that the drum spins OK but there is no heat. Many things can cause this. From the most likely cause to the least likely:
1) An open thermal fuse. This is a small "thermostat" with 2 wires at the middle/top of the heater "box" (a tall narrow box on right in the back of the machine), or a plastic type on the duct close to the blower, depending on the model. You will need to remove the back cover of the machine to see these. Check with an ohm meter after disconnecting one of the leads, or jumper the 2 wires together to see if heater works (don't use this way though, fire hazard... replace the device) If this proves to be the cause of the problem, it would be wise to check all ducts and blower for excessive lint buildup. This will reduce air flow, causing overheating and blown thermal fuses.
2) A burned out heating element. Remove tall box on right, element slides out from the bottom together with the "carrier". Look for broken coil, or check 2 terminals at bottom with ohm meter.
3) Burned wires at connectors. Check for obviously overheated wire terminals at all sensors (thermostats and thermal fuses in back), heater box, main terminals where power cord hooks up, etc.
4) Bad thermostats. There are usually 2 or more. A high limit on heater box, just above terminals on the bottom. 1 or 2 will be on the duct next to the blower. Check these with an ohm meter (or continuity checker). Some have 4 terminals, the extra 2 small terminals are small heaters inside the thermostats which alter it's temperature characteristics. These will usually read around 4000 ohms or so. Check the 2 main largest terminals for continuity.
5) Only getting 110 volts: This is often overlooked, but if for some reason one of the poles feeding the 220 power from the house wiring is open but the other is OK (for example, houses with fuses where only one fuse is blown, or a bad circuit breaker with one pole open). The motor and timer run on 110. If the side of the 220 line that feeds the motor is OK but the other one is open the motor will run but the heater, which needs 220 will not heat. Check for 220 volts between the 2 outer terminals where power cord connects or between the 2 "hot" terminals of the 220 outlet the dryer is plugged into.
6) Bad centrifugal switch in motor. This is what actually turns the heater on, for safety reasons, so the heater cannot come on unless the fan is spinning. Otherwise without air flow past it, the heater would burn out.
There are 2 large gauge (usually red or yellow) wires going to the connector on the motor, these go to the contacts inside the motor that turn the heater on.
Posted on Jul 20, 2009
or bad solonoids on your gas vale
check your lint filter
and exhaust outside to be clear of cloggs with good airflow while running
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
By far, on that machine the "thermal fuse" accounts for more than 50% of all heating problems.
Unplug machine and remove back cover. On the air chute in the middle back of the dryer you will see a small narrow bakelite device with 2 wires connected to it. It is held in with 1 screw.
You will need an ohm meter to test it, or remove it and have an
appliance parts house test it for you. If bad replace.
Whirlpool part #3392519.
The second common problem on that dryer is the heating element and can be checked with an ohm meter as well.
On rare occasions one side of the 230 volt supply is out.
The side running the motor is o.k. but the heater side has lost power.
Caution: your dealing with 230 volts here. remove plug receptacle cover and check with a volt meter for power.
Posted on Nov 03, 2009
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