Question about Garmin nuvi 250W GPS Receiver

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Hi. OK, but the strip is fixed with a sort of tape. Is it possible to place it accurately enough without soldering? And how to place it? yours Arne

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Soldering onto is the best solutuion. If you fix it with any kind of tape, there is possibility to get it loose. Solder it. You can't place it accurately with fixing it with tape, as it will slip out off. OK.

Posted on May 30, 2011

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Wires under hood chewed by rats

Don't know what you need

Open up the wire harness enough to be able to make a repair

You slide heat shrink tubing over the wire,add wire, any color
but the same wire size or gauge & solder them & then heat shrink

If only the plastic is chewed & no copper wire ,then seal with clear
nail polish & tape real tight with 3M hi temp electrical tape,home
depot has that
Then use the stretchy rubber tape to cover all repaired wires,
unless you like you heat shrink job.

You just match the wire colors & strips that isn't the question

Have the battery disconnected

Sep 14, 2012 | 2003 Buick Century

1 Answer

I have a 1X30 red dot scope for my cross bow. The mounting screws are striped. What can I do to fix this?

hi is it the screws that are stripped of the bit the screw goes into if its the bit that the screws go into then get hold of some plumbers tape its not like sticky tape its like rubber and wrap this around the thread then screw it in and that should be strong enough to hold it in place

Sep 25, 2010 | Sport & Outdoor - Others

1 Answer

The DVD door only closes part way because it is hitting the part with the laser that slides forward and lifts to match the spinner on the top of the frame. I think it is supposed to slide over it before...

I twisted and pried until I got the door/disk carrier out of the case. It appears the the teeth on the left side of the door and the teeth on the gear that moved it as well as a white strip of plastic with an upright pin and teeth on the front edge which moved it from left to right were out of sequence. The strip was moving too soon and causing the motor and laser to lift before the disk was in place. The disk carrier was blocked by the spin mechanism which had raised and was up against the piece that the disk should be under.

To fix it, I set the DVD player to "open". Then I put a long narrow strip of masking tape on one side of the teeth of the gear that was supposed to open and close the door.

I pushed the moving strip with the pin as far to the left as it would go and put another narrow strip of tape on the top of it to keep it from moving while I pushed the door back in place. The ends of both pieces of tape extended out the opening and were stuck to the face of the cabinet.

I pushed the door into the frame, pulling up a bit in the center to get it to go through the guides and track. When I got it pushed all the way in I started easing the tape off the gear, pulling on the part outside the door and reaching through the hole where a disk would set to loosen the end of the tape on the gear with a mini screwdriver. I did the same thing with the tape I had put on the strip with the pin.

Then I used the "open/close" function to test it and it worked like a charm. The door guides do not hold the very tight and it tends to wiggle and lean to the left when open.

I also found a really good video by a guy on UTube. It was not my brand of player, but his explanation and demonstration gave me enough info about how to get the door out, without destroying it, so I went at it.

My methods are a little unorthodox, but they worked without tearing the entire thing apart. I couldn't figure out how to get the motor/laser out anyway.

Good luck with yours.

Jan 02, 2010 | Daewoo Televison & Video

1 Answer

Aux cord is broken making the left speaker drop in and out unexpectedly. Is there an easy way to fix this, or a place to get a new aux cord? (This is the cord that connects to my computer with the green...

Do you have soldering tools? If so cut strip solder LIGHTLY tape it up and see if that does it.
New or replacement radio shack maybe
BA wep site and the usual e bay craigslist

Aug 04, 2009 | Boston Acoustics MicroMedia Computer...

2 Answers

My pokemon yellow version is not saving. What should I do without going to the store?

Sadly there isn't much that can be done without buying a new part.

This saving issue is a common problem.
The battery withing the game cartridge has run dry and can not give enough power to hold the save data in the game.

The only way to fix this is to get another battery.
These can usually be found at any electronics parts shop.
You'll need to see the battery's number on top of the battery inside the cartridge however. Though this info should be out there on the internet somewhere.

The hard part though, is getting the darn game cartridge open.
You'll need a special small security screw screw driver.
These can sometimes be found in some security screw tool kits and other more less common screw driver kits.

Once you're in you should be able to remove the battery with a little work and replace it with the new one.
I'd suggest using electrical tape to keep it in place if you are afraid to solder it to the metal tabs. Soldering is usually the best way to go as it keeps everything in place for good.

I hope you find a way to fix it that'll work for you
Good luck.

Apr 26, 2009 | Nintendo Pokemon Yellow Version: Special...

11 Answers

Foodsaver compact vac 550 sealing strip doesn't seal

My machine stopped working because the sealing ribbon was broken and the tape was worn. FoodSaver no longer does repairs. I knew the wire was called nichcome ribbon so I searched that. I checked the resistance of the ribbon on my machine, it was about 3.8 ohms. I found a site called and from their site I bought 1/16 x .005 nichrome ribbon and 3/8 x 5 MIL. x 18 YD Acrylic Teflon Tape. The total cost of these items was about $36.00, the ohm value of their ribbon was 1.66 somewhat less.I used ends from radio shack made the repair and it has been working fine for the last two months and I have enough material leftover for about ten more repairs.

Nov 14, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Bad fan motor on DH504ELY5?

problem fixed with the fan motor not running.

heres how i did it for anyone who experiences the same problem

1.) open back of unit(6 screws and pop tabs)

2.) with back cover open youll have access to compressor and fan-locate the blower assembly and remove the nut on it i used a 3/8 wrench from dollartree and rotated the blower fan while turning-its plastic be careful and remember righty tighty lefty loosey)

3.) with fan assembly off youll see the motor with 2 phillips head screws-taking these screws out with a power screwdriver allows the bearing assembly closest to the fan assembly,shaft,armeture and motor assembly to come out leaving rear bearing assembly attached to chassis

4.) once the motor assembly is completely out gently rest it against the fan hole and cut the silver tape being careful to ONLY cut the silver tape and the first white tape strip.

5.) youll see 3 wires and some insulator sleeves covering them leave everything alone except the ORANGE wire this wire attaches to the thermal fuse than to the windings
CAREFULLY heat up your soldering iron and remove the orange to thermal fuse connection than carefully thermal fuse to windings its a bit of a pain but can be done with patience

6.) remove original thermal fuse noting EXACTLY where original is placed on windings-it will have a small tape strip on it. replace it with one of EXACT OR NEAR THERMAL RATINGS a good choice is radioshack 270-1322. this thermal fuse is ratyed 10 amps max. but remember thermal fuses go by degree of heat and not by amp rating unless the amperage is in excess to melt the thermal material inside-my original fuse was 2 amps and 130 degrees celcius new fuse was 129degrees but plus minus 2 degrees so its a good choice and costs under 2 dollars

7.) place a heatsink clip or needlenose pliers between thermal fuse and solder connections BEFORE YOU SOLDER IT IN PLACE this prevents your 700 degree f iron from melting the fuse(remember its thermal not amperage were talking about here)
solder orange to thermal fuse with plastic extension than flat end to winding wire exactly opposite of how removed

8.) tape fuse in ORIGINAL LOCATION AS OLD FUSE i used scotch tape,place the thermal white protector piece on orange to fuse wire and push everything back down in original places-there should be no contact with any other wires etc. it will cause a fire

9.) once fuse is in place push tape you cut earlier back on and put 2 or 3 small scotch tape pieces of good length to secure the innards, lube the rear bearing of motor using vasoline- a few dollups will do it do the same for front slide motor winding assembly holding it in place than replace armeture with front bearing attaches as they came out secure the 2 screws back in place, put fan blade assembly back on(its keyed) secure nut and reassemble back

if you did everything correctly it will work like new just remember this time CLEAN YOUR FILTER SCREEN REGULARILY lol its critical for proper fan cooling

that should do it:)

Aug 20, 2008 | Goldstar DH504EL Dehumidifier

2 Answers


If it is falling off (and lodging itself into the hose) I would suggest gluing it in place on the tank...a super glue should keep it in place and there is no reason to remove it. If its glued to the tank there is less chance of it being damaged.

Feb 18, 2008 | Kirby Ultimate G Bagged Upright Vacuum

3 Answers

Dell Inspiron 2200 loose DC power pin connector

hi, the power jack must be removed by a strip out and de solder of jack and a new one fitted. I was lucky a guy took £30 for the job.

Feb 17, 2008 | Dell Inspiron 2200 Notebook

5 Answers

Pentax Optio A10 lcd replacement

Re PENTAX OPTIO A10 LCD Replacement


I wish Mike Brunner would advise us where we can get a replacement LCD for $40, was it from a used camera?. A new one  from PENTAX   Part Number 76650-0500 Tel 1 800 877 0155  Is just under $60 plus $8 shipping in the USA but is currently out of stock. There is also a San Diego company with limited stock (5) that wants about $70.  


 Removal of the LCD is relatively straight forward.  First remove the battery and the card. Then unscrew some very minute philips screws and carfully remove the back cover. Separate the two halves of the cover with a thumbnail to unhook a snap connection after the screws have been removed.


It's best not to remove the front cover so as to avoid damage or contamination of unrelated areas.


To remove the LCD look for the retaining snaps and gently pry the left side ( camera facing forward and upright) back and lift the

left side of LCD up and unhook the right side.


The LCD will now still be attached by the multi wire strap and a minute two wire connector. Using tweezers on the plug and not the wires gently disconnect the two wire connector. The multi wire strap with about 25 miniscule gold connectors is held down on the mating contacts with a clear sticky tape. I was able to pull mine loose before I saw the sticky tape.


To reinstall the replacement LCD a very good magnification of the 25 or so contacts may be required to correctly line up all the mating contacts on the back of the camera as there is no apparent mechanical means to correctly align this.

There is no soldering required or practical at his connection.


Use some clear sticky tape to hold it in position.After reconnecting the 2 wire plug the right way up and when the LCD is folded over back into position and snapped down into to the retension snaps,this should also apply gentle presure to the 25 pin connector. Adding a very thin layer of non conductive material over the 25 pin connector before snapping the LCD back might be helpfull in the longterm retension but too much compression will may fail the new LCD. ( Well that is what I'm going to do when I get my LCD) ( I may also put the battery and card back in and switch it on before replacing the rear cover taking care not to get an electrical shock through some accidental discharge, so don't do as I say unless you know what you are doing)


 Re assembling the rest should be straight forward. Then test the result. 


 Note: The camera buff who encouraged me to do my own repair has added an extra layer of clear plastic over the exterior cover of the LCD to better protect it. It is also advisable to have a hard case or reinforce a small soft case with a used credit card to protect the LCD, so as not to have to repeat this again.  


Good Luck. From Santa Cruzer   

Oct 01, 2006 | Pentax Optio A10 Digital Camera

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