Question about Asko W6761 Front Load Washer

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Asko W660 washer - how do I get the door apart to replace a leaking door gasket?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 351 Answers

SOURCE: Asko W660 Quattro Front Load

check the inlet valve solenoid there are three of them one might be o/c,also using to much soap can cause this or a coin stuck in the sump hose near the pump.the filter is in the valve but normally isnt the problem

Posted on Aug 28, 2008

  • 333 Answers

SOURCE: ASKO w660 Parts

lick on this link and contact the parts warehouse they will be able to help you. http://www.askousa.com/buy-asko/contact-us/

Posted on Jan 16, 2009

  • 37 Answers

SOURCE: LG front load washer leaks from door gasket

This is best left for a proffessional to repair

Affordable Appliance Repair
LAke Forest, CA. 92630

Posted on Aug 22, 2009

VtToolMan
  • 704 Answers

SOURCE: Broken door gasket how to replace on GE front

You'll need to determine which bellows gasket your washer needs before you undertake the repair. Go to the following link and enter in your washer model number to get the line drawing and parts breakdown.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?pop=flush
Click on the "find a part" and enter in your model number

Typically, the tub gasket (door seal) is part number #WH08X10022 with a new substitution part #WH08X10036. However, since each model can be slightly different, depending on the serial number which denotes when it was manufactured, you might want to confirm that the above gasket is the correct one for your particular washer.

You can also call the folks at Sears Parts Direct at 1-800-252-1698 and give them your complete model number AND serial number before you start in on the repair, so you can be sure you have the correct substitution bellows gasket.

It's a relatively easy repair, all you need to do is remove the spring retaining wire around the outer edge of the bellows gasket, just peel it back at the edge to see it. Now locate the locking loop by going around the rim. Once you find the locking loop, you can remove it using a couple pairs of small needle nose pliers as they make it easier to get off.

Once you've done that, you'll see the locking plate that holds the back side of the bellows gasket onto the outer washer tub. Remove those fasteners and you can get the bellows off and start in on putting the new bellows onto the washer, just reversing the order you used in the removal process.

Just take your time removing the old gasket so you remember what you're doing and when installing the new gasket so as not to rip or tear it in the process. I'd also suggest you let the gasket relax for a good 4-5 hours (to get the kinks and folds out of it from the packing box) before you do the installation.

Here's another link to one of my other solutions for installing a bellows gasket on a GE front loading washer that you can also review for more installation tips, etc.

http://www.fixya.com/support/t2730376-need_help_in_installing_door_bellow_ge

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Posted on Sep 17, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Door leak

A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn’t cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.


Step 6--Removing the door. After you remove the three screws in Step 5, there is only one screw to remove in step 6 on my model. It was hidden behind a plastic cover that makes the hinge look pretty. You'll see on the inside of the door that two plastic prongs/tabs extend into holes in the hinge. If you push on them laterally and pull out, the tabs will pop out. Outside the door on the left side of the machine, you'll see the plastic cover that is connected to those plastic tabs and is hiding the hinge. On the outside cover piece, there is a flat tab that extends up into the plastic housing above it. If you gently pull the cover downward and out the whole plastic cover will come off revealing the one screw that needs to be removed to take the door off.
Step 7--Removing the Kick Panel. The middle screw is more difficult to reach than the sides. You may need an extension for your screwdriver and/or shims or a helper to prop up the washer while you remove the middle screw.
Step 8--Removing the washer casing. The step says to remove the screws and set the casing aside. My model (2005-ish) has wires connected to it. Rather than being able to remove it, it swings open like a door with the wires as the hinge. I simply used a box to prop up the outside part of the door so it did not sag and stress the wires.
Step 9--After you remove the old rubber bellow, you will likely see a lot of dirt, mold, and junk where the bellow was. Clean that stuff off with a cloth sprayed with a gentle cleanser before installing the new bellow. We replaced our bellow because of mold and mildew and bad smelling stuff. That dirt and junk is part of the problem. Clean it up before you install the new clean bellow.

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Posted on Sep 12, 2010

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lick on this link and contact the parts warehouse they will be able to help you. http://www.askousa.com/buy-asko/contact-us/

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