Question about Craftsman 3 gal. Air Compressor, 1.5 hp, Horizontal k

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Compressor does not turn on when switch is set to auto. i can take the cover off where the electrical connections meet and hold the little button down and it runs...?

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The switch works with pressure from the tank pushing on a rubber diaphragm that in turn activates the contacts. With the switch on and no pressure in the tank, the contacts should be engaged. Most likely failed switch. Easy to replace, however. Find generic pressure switch on ebay and replace as factory replacement will be quite expensive. When ordering, note the thread size and number of ports needed and cut-out pressure (about 125 psi is best) . Should cost around $20.00 on ebay and factory about 49.95. Will work the same. Good luck with your repair.

Posted on May 27, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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The regrigerator was plugged into a switch that was controlled by a light switch. The switch was turned off and then immediately turned on. When that happend there was a pop in the refrigerator. In the...


Sounds like the compressor relay or the compressor itself shorted out. This is not because someone switched the power off and quickly back on. This would have happened anyway. Now to prove or disprove this possibility I want someone to do a electrical test on the compressor run, start and common prongs comming out the side of the compressor. Here is the test as follows...Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze
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1 Answer

I have a C2001-WK that does not auto shut off


A regulator controls the pressure in the air line leaving the compressor and does not affect when the compressor turns on or off.

The pressure switch monitors the pressure in the tank and turns the compressor motor on and off when the switch closes or opens in response to changes in the tank pressure. If the compressor does not shut off, it is possible the pressure switch has been set to a pressure level that is higher than the compressor is capable of attaining, thus it does not shut off.

The compressor is capable of developing 150 psi and is noted as having a "120 psi cut-in pressure". When you say it doesn't shut off, does that mean it will generate 150 psi or more of pressure and fails to shut off or it develops less than 150 psi and does not shut off.

If the compressor does not generate 150 psi, then it is probably somewhat worn out and not capable of developing enough pressure to meet the factory high pressure limit. I would try adjusting the pressure switch upper pressure limit down to 130 psi or less (less if the compressor will not develop 130 psi) and see if this solves your problem If it doesn't,

If the compressor will develop 150 psi or more, then try adjusting the high pressure limit to less than 150 psi. If you can't adjust the high pressure limit then the pressure switch is defective and needs to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Switch will not shut off


Make sure you don't contact the electrical power inside the switch cover.
Make sure that you have an accurate gauge to test the compressor.
Adjust the switch to the original factory setting.
If the original setting was 100 psi, for example, make sure the gauge is reading at least 100 psi while the compressor is running. If the pressure is over 100, turn the nut that is over the larger spring counter clockwise until the compressor stops. This will lower both turn on and turn off pressures. The nut over the smaller diameter spring should probably not be adjusted.

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1 Answer

Need to set low level on my compressor


That would depend on the type of pressure control switch it had on it, but all of the ones I've ever seen have it near the high pressure adjuster under the pressure switch cover- VERY HIGH VOLTAGES- RISK OF INJURY OR DEATH- UNDER PRESSURE SWITCH COVER WITH UNIT STILL CONNECTED TO POWER-

On the common switch used (A condore mdr 5) the differential is adjusted by DEPRESSING the nob & turning it.

On MDR 4 the adjuster is directly behind the high pressure adjuster. it is a flat bladed screw attached to a spring-screw in to increase cut in pressure.

You can also get pressure switches with a higher cut in pressure.
In Australia from a company called Ross Brown Sales in N.S.W

Hope this helps
Regards Andrew

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Sounds like brake light switch is stuck. Follow brake pedal up under dash. There will be a electrical switch that sets on pedal. Dissconnect switch lights out. Replace switch.

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1 Answer

I have a Husky Pro 30 gal a/c. How do I adjust


The adjustment for "Cut-In" and "Cut Out" can be found under the pressure switch cover, if available. Some switches are sealed to prevent tampering that might compromise safety.
If you remove the cover you will see the four electrical connections and one or two screws with springs under them. Most times if the adjustments are accessible you will find a set of instructions under the switch cover. One screw will adjust both the "Cut-In/Cut-Out" pressure and one to adjust the "Cut-Out" pressure only.

However you need to remember some important issues regarding these adjustments. The first is that the "Cut-In/Cut-Out" pressure is set at the factory and is set there for a reason. The only reason to change these is because over time the adjustments can change or you are installing a new switch. The other thing to remember is that the safety relief valve is set just above the "Cut-Out" psi. So any meaningful increase will only trigger the safety valve.

If you need to readjust your compressor back to factory settings make sure you do it with small adjustments. 1/4 to 1/2 turn of the screws. Run the compressor and check both the "Cut-In" and "Cut Out" psi setting before making another adjustment.

Hope this helps, good luck and please be careful.

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my 4m40mitsubishi model have something nocking during a litlle accelerating in the acelerator

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1 Answer

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1st check for power at the pressure switch. Take the cover of the switch and make sure you have line voltage at the terminals from the wall outlet.
if no voltage>replace cord or plug end with proper gauge wire.
If voltage, then, while you have the cover off of the switch **Make sure it is not plugged in** and operate the on off switch and visually check the operation of the switch. You should see some flat copper terminals that, when the switch is turned on, kinda rotate and drop onto some other copper terminals. The connection is kinda like points on a old car ignition, little pads on each copper thingie contact each other. I have seen these little pads become pitted and burnt from arcing. Try to clean these with a small file or pick if they are corroded. Get some electrical contact cleaner and clean the switch completely, *it is not only electrical, but is also mechanical*. Switches will intermittantly work, replace the whole pressure switch if there is heavy wear, charring or working intermittantly.
If this is all good, check the wires coming out of the switch for power to the motor, replace if necessary. If this is ok..
You probably have a bad motor. I have not had much success in revitalizing motors, its usually better to just replace it.

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Try setting the fan control to "AUTO" this will cause it to cut out with the compressor.

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If the compressor turns off and won?t come back on during a very hot day, the unit may have built up a high "head" pressure and the high-pressure limit switch may have tripped. This is usually located right inside the access panel on the compressor unit. Simply push the button to return it to operation. If your central air conditioner doesn't go on automatically: 1) Be sure the thermostat is set to "cool" and set below room temperature. 2) A central air conditioner should be on a dedicated 240-volt circuit; check the main electrical panel and any secondary circuit panels for a tripped breaker or blown fuse. If you find the problem here, reset the breaker or replace the fuse. 3) Make sure the furnace power switch is turned on and that the outdoor condenser's power switch, mounted on the outdoor unit, hasn't been shut off. Also be sure the 240-volt disconnect next to the compressor (in a metal box, usually mounted on the house wall) hasn't been shut off. 4) Turn off the power to the air conditioner and check the thermostat. 5) Remove the thermostat's cover and unscrew the wire from the Y terminal. 6) Turn the power back on. 7) Holding the wire by its insulation, touch the bare end to the R terminal and hold it there for about 2 minutes. If the compressor kicks on, the thermostat is faulty; replace it or call an air conditioning technician. If the compressor doesn't go on when you hold the two wires together, turn the power back off and call a service technician.

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