Question about Endless Summer 2009 Open Flame Patio Heater

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How do I unfreeze the brass connection on the pressure regulator hose from the galvanized(?) fitting at the base of the pipe running up the shaft to the heater assembly? I have two of these heaters that I purchased in Moscow, Idaho in the mid 1990's. The flame does not stay lighted and gradually goes out on both heaters; I presume that the pressure regulators need replacing, but the brass fittings cannot be unscrewed from the galvanized fittings at the end of the pipes. I have plenty of good wrenches, and I have done plenty of home plumbing.

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It's probably not the pressure regulators, as much as the pilot assembly and burners need cleaning. In addition, the Thermocouple(s) may be giving up the ghost and should be replaced. As far as the brass fitting to the "galvanized" pipe is concerned, that's a Black Iron fitting. Galvanized pipe or fittings are not approved to be used with gas. As a matter of fact, depending on where you live, Galvanized piping is not approved any longer for potable (drinking water) water piping

Once you turn the tank(s) OFF and disconnect them from each heater, to perform the maintenance I mentioned above. When you reconnect the hose to the tank, turn the tank valve ON VERY, VERY SLOWLY (Slow motion, slow), until the valve is fully open. Then light each one as you normally do and turn the burner(s) to high.

If you find you need Themocouples, you can purchase them from Blue Rhio, the manufacturer of Endless Summer heaters.

Hope this helps you to accurately troubleshoot and solve the problem. Please let me know.

Posted on May 27, 2011

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How do i eliminate moisture from an underground,natural gas galvanized gas line. I have no gas flow to my garage or my 75k garage heater.


Check on the local codes governing gas piping, but it would be my suggestion to consider abandoning the existing line IF you are sure there is a compromise to its integrity allowing water to enter. I would think if water ENTERS...then GAS has to be able to excape. It'd be a lot of condensation that's required to either just block the line or freeze and block the line. If it freezes due to lack of depth, it's going to rupture anyway sooner or later necessitating replacement.

At the above ground location before where it goes subterranean, (after checking the codes), consider installing the appropriate brass fittings to then allow a new underground copper line to be installed by attaching by means of an iron pipe to flare adapter in the appropriate size. Then utilize type L soft roll copper to lay in the new trench to the garage and tie it into the existing line inside the wall. Type L is the thick walled soft tubing and can be used in many locations for gas, whereas Type M soft copper tubing is thin walled tubing for use with water and not gases. Your area may not allow it. That's what building inspectors are for.

Before proceeding, MAKE SURE your line is in fact the problem then double check with a local authority whether or not copper materials are recommended along with brass fittings for the connections. IF the original and suspected problematic gas line is for sure GALVANIZED it is not in any way approved for use with natural gas. It is probably black iron pipe.

Jan 03, 2015 | Heating & Cooling

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on May 08, 2017 | Miscellaneous

1 Answer

How to stop water hammer


Connect hose-to-galvanized pipe adapter to shut off valve at washing machine.
Install galvanized 45 or 90 and then attach vertical 18" pipe with cap.
Then install galvanized-to-hose adapter and connect washing machine hose.
Crude illustration:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Add-air-chamber-1.jpg

Gene
h

Dec 04, 2013 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Water pressure decreases as the water runs


Probably a clog in galvanized pipe.
Expansion tank is not whole-house pressure regulating tank. It is localized protection for plumbing exposed to high pressure caused by very hot water.
If you house has pressure regulating valve, then that can be a cause.
For low water pressure in household, the following link might help:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html

Aug 07, 2011 | Amtrol ST-12-C THERM-X-TROL ASME Expansion...

1 Answer

5 gallon compressor broke underneath regulater the double threaded metal piece that accepts all the fittings broke! can it be fixed or where can we find out what part it is exactlY?mastercraft vertical 2...


Mine ( Square-D PUMPTROL REGULATOR) used a standard galvanized pipe fitting called a straight 1/4NPT pipe in many lengths availabe at places like RONA and HOME DEPOT. Brass ones are less common but way better for the purpose as you don't want black scale corrosion anyware near the diaphram in th bottom of the regulator. The outside pipe diameter is a little more than half and inch but just check with a T from another bin in the store which has the 1/4 stamped right into the metal. They may have used thin wall steel pipe which is no good when you are using pipe wrenches!

Mar 28, 2011 | Garden

1 Answer

I have a hotpoint hot water heater it's about 6 years old. When I turn the hot water on it runs very slowly the water pressure is very low and it's like this throughout the house how do I fix this problem...


You have clog in the water line.
Since all hot water pipes are involved, clog is probably near water heater.

Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that threads onto hose connection.
Brady BTG 100 at Amazon
Picture of gauge

Check outdoor pressure for baseline pressure in your home.
Turn off electricity to hot water heater for an hour or two so there is not scalding water.
Open drain valve on water heater to see if water heater is clogged with sediment.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html

Put pressure gauge on drain valve and compare with outside pressure.
Open hot water spigot on bathtub and see if tank pressure drops ... if tank pressure drops significantly with bathtub spigot on, then clog is on incoming cold water before tank, and could be on outgoing hot water pipes too.
If tank pressure stays about the same, then clog is on outgoing hot water pipes.

Clog can be sediment caught in cold water shut off valve located above tank. Open and close valve and test pressure again. Take apart incoming cold water pipes above tank and check for sediment. Replace valve. Look at condition of cold water nipple on top of tank.

Sediment caught at hot water elbow near tank.
Sediment can fill up old pipes. Take apart hot water pipes above water heater and see condition.
Look at condition of hot water nipple on top of tank.
You may have to take apart pipes up to first or second elbow.

Pipes can decay at joint where copper pipe connects to galvanized pipe. Check for copper to galvanized connections on cold or hot pipes and replace section of galvanized pipe. Copper pipe will probably be good, the galvanized pipe will deteriorate. Replace copper-to-galvanized joint with 3/4" non-conducting union from hardware store

Dec 06, 2010 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

The hose leading out of the water heater on the inside of the trailer has rusted off. My dad has in the past use epoxy putty to repair it but it has come loose again and I would like to know if and how it...


Coming out of the back should be a 1/2" NPT short nipple, or a check valve with 1/2" NPT threads. ( NPT = National pipe thread. Just ask for a 1/2" galvanized pipe nipple the right length.(short, or 2" usually) If it's a check valve, it will usually be brass or plastic/nylon. I prefer galvanized just because the tend to hold up better. Most water lines connect to that, unless yours has a different fitting such as a female flare going to a male flare fitting in tank. Either way, you'll have to get old one out and match it, to allow for water line fitting to re-attach, or change end of water line to proper fitting to attach to nipple. Without seeing exactly what you have, I can't explain exactly what you need to do.

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4 Answers

Will a compression fitting work on 1/2'' galv. pipe?


They do make a compression coupling for galvanized pipe, but I don't trust them very much. When you unscrew the joint with a pipe wrench just make sure to back it up with another, so you don't start to unscrew the next joint back.

Oct 04, 2009 | Plumbing

1 Answer

I have a older home with very slow hot water flow. Is there anything I can do myself? The pipes are cast iron.


Have you tried removing the aerators from the faucets and cleaning out the sediment. You can also drain down the water tank to try and remove any sediment that has settled in the bottom.

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2 Answers

How can I connect a 20# tank?


lp gas hose, regulator, pipe fittings to adapt the hose to your heater.. use brass fittings.

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