Question about Alpine MRP-M650 Car Audio Amplifier

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My Alpine MRP-M650 Amp is acting up. When I start the car, if the volume is at low, the subs don't work. But when I turn up the volume, they eventually kick in, then I can lower the volume. But when I turned the engine off and restart the car, the same problem happens again. RCA Cable works fine and I tried this with a different amp and everything works fine. What could be causing this?

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There are a lot of things that could cause this issue ...
1. Your amp requires more power than it gets when you start your car, and needs to charge up before it can work. If this is the case, you should be able to give your stereo about 5 minutes to warm up at low volume and it should come on. This happens a lot with amps with built-in capacitors (capacitors give you stunning, instant kick when working, but require a bunch of power to initialize). If you wire a bypass switch for the power to your amp and bass components, you can turn it on separate from the rest of the car and allow it to charge before you start your car (just be careful to turn it off when you are going to be away from your car for a while since this will allow your system to drain your battery).
2. Your amp might be set incorrectly for handling the system you are running. If your Ohms do not match up exactly (8 ohm speakers with a 4 ohm amp -- it's the "Impedance rating") then the system should not work at all, or should burn out the amp ... but with a jury-rigged system it can work. If this is the case, I recommend getting a new amp that matches your speakers.
3. Depending on the amp, there might be a volume-based cutoff that is working improperly. Turn on the car with the stereo at low volume. While the speakers are still not working, check to make sure that the amp has power, and seems to be functioning correctly. If everything seems like it's on the up and up, but the speakers are not working, try changing the volume-filter options on your amp.
4. I put this last because it seems like you know what you are doing with the system setup, but it is possible that you have a bad connection between the speakers and the amp, or between the stereo and the amp. There could be a loose connection somewhere (either inside the amp, between the amp and the speakers at the jack, or between the stereo and the amp at the jack). If this were the case, everything would look perfect from a visual inspection, but there could be a tiny space, or corrosion in a connection. Turning the stereo up to a high volume could then bridge this short circuit, and the electric force could magnetize the connection shut, allowing you to then turn the stereo down with the working connection. The best-case scenario here would be an external wiring issue, where you can clean any corrosion off the connections with an eraser, and reconnect everything tightly fixing the problem. The worst case would be a short WITHIN the amp, which would have to be repaired by someone with a lot of time and a circuit tester -- in which case you might be better off trading the amp in for a new one.

Posted on May 26, 2011

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  • vaxjjangu May 26, 2011

    I think it's safe to say that #4 is not it. Maybe something's wrong within the Amp, but not the other cables and connections since it worked perfectly fine with a different amp.

    #2 shouldn't be it, since I have 2 10" Alpine Tyse S's 2ohms with this amp which can power 2ohms and 4 ohms.

    I think it could be #1 & 3. This is only a 600watts amp though, do you think I will need a capacitor?

  • Dave
    Dave May 26, 2011

    A capacitor will give you more punch in your bass, but it is usually not necessary unless you are running a 15" or larger sub, or an unlimited competition system. Basically, a capacitor just stores a bunch of extra energy to give the sub-woofer instant, full power at the coil, but if your system is running off an amp and you are satisfied with the sound you are getting it shouldn't be needed.

    If you have gone over everything, and the problem is still happening, I would think that it is a miniature short within the amp somewhere. These things happen (it's why I don't have a system at the moment) and tends to be an early-warning sign that the amp is going to die if it does not get repaired quickly. It is possible to fix it yourself if you have a circuit tester and a bunch of free time -- just open the case and check the continuity of each of the connections. I would start with the connections closest to the speaker jacks and work your way across the circuit board. This takes a significant amount of time, unless you happen on the problem early, but it can save you a lot of money if your amp was expensive. The problem with this is that the circuit tester itself might close the short circuit while you are testing the line ... so there is no guarantee that you will ever find the problem -- which is (once again) why I do not have a system in my car.

    As far as working 2 10" speakers with a 600Watt amp, as long as the impedance rating and amperage are matched, you should be fine. You can run a speaker that will accept more watts than the amp puts out without a problem if the other things are matched up, but you'll blow your speakers if you try to run a high-output amp through low input speakers even if everything else is matched.

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Check the two large power supply capacitors for signs of puffing. Chances are, they are discharging when you cut remote power. When power is applied, they need an extra bump from your low level inputs to charge and fire. I believe these are 35V 8200uf 20% tolerance caps.

Posted on Sep 26, 2012

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as far as it staying on it may have been wired to your hot unstead of your remote on your radio

when it runs wide open it gets hot
how are your gains

I have an alpine and I just hooked up jl 12 w3s and it kinda j did what yours did
it played.. hit hard then no subs.. my mids and highs platyed, but until I would turn off the car and restart the radio the subs immediately came on and the subs are only connected to this aplpine mrp m 650 amp

what speakers and what ohm did they wire it too?

i think my problem was I was overloading my amp feeding it a 2 ohm load or a one ohm load and it was shutting down my subs.. protectection I suppose?


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But this sounds like your amp or sub is screwed, either there is to much resistance in your sub, eg: Burnt voice coil, carbon builds up on the coil stopping the sub from moving freely. Push on the cone of the sub & listen for a scrapeing sound.
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or your Amp may have blown a internal fault that will have to be sent of for repair.

Or you have a incorrectly rated fuse for your system,

or the battery cant kope with the power surges???
THIS DOES NOT APPLY TO YOU AS YOU HAVE A POWER-CAP!!!

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cheers, adam

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