PAG2200D angle grinder has 2 guards.One is a half guard,the other covers both sides of disc. Which one is used for grindins,which for cutting?

Difficult to say without the machine in front of me. Normally you get this response if no beans fall into the grinder. Are your beans oily, sticking together and not falling in?
Normally freshly roasted beans esp dark roasts are a bit oily. If so then you can change roasts, brands or mix with another type.
You might try to adjust your grind per the manual. (turn knob inside the bin while the grinder is grinding) see #8 page 12.
If the beans are falling in and grinding and you still get this msg I would say you have a grinder problem.
http://capresso.125west.com/e8_manual.pdf

Your grinder is probably blocked.
It may happen if your coffee is greasy or oily.

Try to empty the coffee bin and using your vacuum cleaner, removed has much as possible the grounded coffee around the grinder.

Also, from the inside, look where the coffee grind should drop from the grinder to the brewer unit and removed any grind that could block and prevent coffee to drop.

haven't heard of a different guard for the cutting disc you want to use. Most people remove the guard when using them

The top guard should be set at 6mm and the bottom guard should be 2-3mm from the grinding wheel.
hope this helps,

This sounds like the grinder is not strong enough to grind properly. Try adjust the grind to a bit coarser, if this makes no difference then the bearings inside the grinder may gone. Try only fill a small amount of beans in the container and see if it works. It may be that when there is too much of a load on it it will not spin the blades.

Hello, W/D here.

It's always a wiser choice to leave the guard on to help keep particles from being slung at you.
In addition to the guard, you should also wear eye protection. I have extensive experience in industrial work, and I cannot emphasize strongly enough how important this is. Where I worked, working with a wire wheel required that the guard be in place and that the operator wear safety glasses and a face shield. An eye injury is one of the most serious accidents that can be easily avoided.
Best regards, and work safely, --W/D--

This is considered a throwaway tool when any internal parts break or wear out, including the brushes. It's usually cheaper to buy a new one as opposed to repairing one. If it's still within the warranty period, B&D will replace it or prorate the value depending on how long you've had it. The only replacement parts available for this grinder are the side handle, blade guard, the inner and outer flanges and spanner wrench.

there are 3 problems you might face: 1. mechanical - disc shield (or protector) is too small for bigger disc. You can remove the shield (I do not recommend!!!) or buy bigger one (as I've did). 2. RPMs - on each disc you can find maximal speed of ourter part of the disc. It depends on disc diameter and RPMs. In case yo go from 115 to 125 at 11 000 RPM, it should be still OK. But I would not go further. Check how RPMs drops with increasing disc diameter. 3. motor overload. To handle bigger discs motor should produce higher torque. But if you are not pressing on the grinder and you frequently check temperature of grinder, it should work. I have Metabo WE14-125 - 1400W motor 125 mm disc: 1. I've bought new shield from WE14-150 - it fits perfectly 2. My grinder has adjustable RPMs, when I'm using 150 mm disc I'm not going over level 3 (out of 6) to keep RPM in safe range for the disc. 3. Metabo makes also WE14-150 which is almost same as mine, but produces more torque (3,5Nm vs 3,3Nm). But the dofference is very small so I'm not worried. Juraj

Do you have the securing nut on the correct way? Basically the inner surface of the nut needs to be flat against the blade for it to work correctly and hold the cutting disc in place Usually the nuts are reversible to fit either flat discs or rounded disc heads. It's either that or you do not have the right size bore on the diamond disc for your grinder.

* The base plate can be tilted to make angled cuts. Most saws adjust from 90 degrees to slightly less than 45 degrees, making it possible to cut bevelled ends on boards for corning attachments, hip-roof rafter cuts, and even miters. Most saws are equipped with a thumbscrew or lever to loosen the bolt which keeps the saw blade on the correct angle for the cut you are making, located on the front of the saw. Some are also equipped with a scale which indicates the blade angle, from '0' (90 degrees, or square to the board surface) to 45 degrees. * The blade can be set to the depth required for individual cuts, from less than 1/8 inch to the full depth the blade is capable of penetrating. The lever or thumbscrew which locks the base plate at the desired height is usually located at the rear of the motor on the left side. * Many circular saws are equipped with a ripping fence, to guide the blade as you make a rip cut along the edge of a board, giving you a straighter, parallel cut. * Dust ejector. A few newer saws are equipped with a dust ejector to blow the sawdust away from the operator's face and from the mark where the cut is being made. * Laser tracking light. Some newer saws are equipped with a laser that projects a bright, red line down the path of the blade travel. These can also be purchased to retrofit on older units that are not factory equipped with them. * Blade guard. This should be considered a essential safety feature on any saw, and has two parts, the fixed guard over the top of the blade, and the floating guard, which rolls out of the way as the saw is pushed into the work piece. Some have a handle so the blade guard can manually be lifted for plunge cutting or easier viewing of the cutting mark.