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The easiest way to do this is to use a 3 pin regulator IC. For a 5 volt supply go to this WEB site, http://schematicwiring.com/simple-electronic-applications/5v-dc-regulator-with-3-pin-regulator-circuit-schematic-diagram/ For a variable voltage power supply go to this WEB site. http://www.engineeringslash.com/power-supply/three-terminal-adjustable-regulator.html
Here's a hints on how to repair or fix Nokia 5800 XpressMusic Digi Mic Knopfler problem issues.
A guide picture below which I included an schematic diagram shows each
every components and line paths for quick test and check up procedures.
Digi Mic Knopfler Pin configuration:
1. L/R - microphone's left and right audio signals groundings
2. CLK - Audio Clock data
3. Data - Digital Microphone data
4. VDD - Power supply voltage
Locate and trace each and every components, line paths and corresponding
connection as shown on a picture. The red highlighted components and
line paths is for the power supply voltage which came from Power
management IC (AVILMAS) Vsim2- approximately 2-3 volts.
Test and check this components and track the supply voltage from C220 to C2170 then through the digi mic knopfler pin 4.
The pink highlighted components and line paths is for Audio Clock data
signal, which is came from the Audio Codec IC (Avilmas) then flow across
R2201 and R2170 (valued 100ohms each) then to the Digi mic knopfler
pin number 2. Check also the C2173 valued 22p Clock filter capacitor
for possible damaged.
I included step by step procedures on the images like as follows:
* Check each components and line paths.
* Replace if found open or shorted
* Jumper the line paths if found open or cut
* Check or replace the digi mic knopfler for a quickest step might as possible.
The microphone's digital data signals has also a line paths connected
to the front side of the Printed circuit board, check and trace also
this line paths which is connected to digi mic knopfler's pin 4
Take the battery out of the laptop & try to turn on the laptop
using power adapter only. If the computer turns on, then the battery is
defective & needs to be replaced. 2.
Make sure the power adapter is not defective. Test the output voltage
of the power adapter using a voltmeter. Compare the voltmeter reading to
the nominal value written on the adapter or the laptop. 3. Make sure
the DC jack is not loose or broken. A loose DC jack will need to be
re-soldered. A broken one will need to be replaced. 4. If you
have another processor which is compatible with your laptop's model, try
swapping processors & test to see if the laptop will work. 5. The power button could be bad. 6. The motherboard could be defective & needs to be replaced.
The posts on this site will help:http://music-electronics-forum.com/t10712/ I had trouble finding the correct schematic but the one here:http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=42 should give you an idea of what I am talking about. Using a volt ohm meter on the D.C. volts scale ,hook up the black probe to the circuit ground. Make sure to use the correct adapter as a variation in the current output. ma will blow your pedal up. The diode in the schematic with one end hooked to ground protects the circuit from adapters that are wired backwards. It is the first thing you want to check. You will have to perform a diode test. Hopefully your meter has this function. If the diode is O.K. and you can get the correct voltage ( polarity, milliamps etc.) into the circuit, have a look at the schematic. Test each I.C. for voltage at pin 8. Depending on what I.C.s are in your pedal you can find the defective one by testing for voltage at the supply pin and then the other pins of each I.C. If you find voltage at a pin that should only be carrying signal you probably have found a defective one.For instance, in the sample schematic, pin 2 of IC 1a should have no voltage present such as 9 volts for instance. Test all the diodes, test all the ICs. If they are all fine you will have to test each transistor. The info on how to do all this as well as the pin outs are all available on the internet. After you find the defective part or parts test any parts that are hooked to them in the circuit as well as they may have failed or caused the other part to fail. Before I got an oscilloscope I had to unsolder a lot of parts to test them with a VOM, a transistor tester and a capacitor tester. The repairs paid for the scope. Let me know how you make out. I don't work on effects that much any more as my eyesight is failing but I might be able to steer you in the right direction. If you decided at this point that you don't want to try the repair, take it to a good musical instrument repair place and have it fixed. Vintage pedals are getting to be worth a lot of money and they usually sound better than the reissues.
As you probably know the regulator also supplies power to the other ICs on the board. If the fuse keeps blowing that means that one of the parts drawing power is shorted. By looking the pin configuration up for each IC you can find which one is the + and which one is the- etc. The faulty IC will be showing voltages on the other pins where they shouldn't be. That is usually the defective part. You will also want to check parts that are related to or in the same circuit. The worse case scenario is that the main IC is shorted. Without the schematic its a long arduous troubleshooting procedure but it can be done and I just thought I would suggest it. I mean know pffence and just wanted to help somewhat.
going through here just to share the circuit diagram (schematic) for
Boss PSA adapter because I know that many people need to repair their
damaged fonts but can not get the original wiring diagram.
You are going to need to get a schematic diagram and trace out the resistors and capacitors in the convergence circuit or power supply as most of the time you dont need one and replaceing the IC's will fix it, but sometimes other things have went bad because of the defect in the Convergence drive IC's or one of the new ICs could be defective. Would not be the first time I have seen this problem. Did you buy tHe exact replacement IC? Did you use heat sink compond behind the IC on the heat sink? These two things are very important as well. If you dont have a multimeter and now how to us one as well as read a schematic, you may want to seek out the assistance of a pro. Good Luck
PS please dont forget to rate this thread.