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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I found a way to get warm water in the shower, but I'm not sure it qualifies as a solution. After trying everything else I thought that maybe when I was feathering the faucet in the shower toward the cold side so I would get warm water that at a certain point it blocked the flow on the hot water side enough so that the sensor in the hot water heater sensed there was no demand in the line and it shut the water heater off. To test this, I went to the kitchen and turned the kitchen sink faucet all the way to the hot side and then turned it on so that I got a small flow of water. I waited for the water to get hot to be sure the hot water heater was working. Once it was hot, I left it running to keep demand in the line and then I went to the shower and turned the faucet on. When the water got hot I started feathering the control towards the cold side and soon I had warm water. So I think I'm right in that the sensor in the hot water heater was shutting the water heater off when the demand in the shower was lowered to a certain point when I was trying to adjust the water temp in the shower.
So now I can get warm water, but it means I have to leave the hot water running at another fixture in the house to create a false demand in the system so the hot water heater doesn't shut down. Is there a way to adjust the senor in the hot water heater so that it will stay on when I'm using the shower only, so I don't have to waste water by running another faucet when I want to take a shower?
Posted on Nov 29, 2008
It sounds like the Rinnai units are working correctly but you've got some plumbing problems. Any tankless heater has a minimum water flow required to keep the burners going. If the burners were going with very little water flowing through them to carry the heat away, the heat exchanger could overheat and fail. The solution is generally to the electronic controls to set the desired temperature and then just use hot water. Once you start mixing cold water in, you actually reduce the flow of hot water and the burners turn off. If you are right near the cut off point, the burners will cycle on and off resulting in those very annoying hot-cold-hot-cold showers.
The fact that you've got those very loud noises indicates some other sort of plumbing problem. Hooking up two tankless units in series is much more complicated. In heavy draw situations, the second unit is asked to finish heating the water up to temperature when the first unit couldn't quite get it there. Now you're putting hot water into a heater and heating it more. You have a lot more issues with fluctuating temperatures and pressures within the pipes which could conceivable cause these horrible noises. Everything's got to be set up right to for things to function properly and it's easy to get something wrong.
From your description, it sounds like a better solution would have been to mount the two heaters in different places. e.g. One in the basement to serve basement and first floor faucets. The other on the second or third floor to serve those two floors. Since these units are direct vent (don't use inside air), they can even be mounted in a closed closet as long as the vent can get to the outside. With this setup you avoid the complexities of a series installation and you also have a much shorter wait time (and therefore less waste) for the fixtures on the upper floors.
Posted on Jan 22, 2009
FA - Gas leakage error, gas valve circuit not closing properly
Posted on Mar 15, 2009
Most likely problem is the remote control not the main board. A safe temporary fix is to unplug the heater from the 110 volt outlet, remove the two low voltage wires from the remote control and use a small wire nut to connect the two conductors together. Plug the heater back into the 110 outlet and the heater should work just fine. The default water temperature is about 118 degrees at the heater. Replace the remote control ASAP.
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
with y plan 3 connections on programmer HW on HW off CH on HW on to cylinder stat then HW call to Orange on Mvalve to power boiler and pump HW off to grey wire on Mvalve to close hot water CH to room stat common then heating call to white on Mvalve
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
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