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I have a 3 month old edesa heater . the water heats fine but then ( noticable in shower) goes cold then hot and then back to normal all within 15 seconds. this reoccurs every 2-3 minutes. all the connections and external valves seem ok. do you think the heater is faulty ?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Water is either hot or cold - no in between.

I found a way to get warm water in the shower, but I'm not sure it qualifies as a solution. After trying everything else I thought that maybe when I was feathering the faucet in the shower toward the cold side so I would get warm water that at a certain point it blocked the flow on the hot water side enough so that the sensor in the hot water heater sensed there was no demand in the line and it shut the water heater off. To test this, I went to the kitchen and turned the kitchen sink faucet all the way to the hot side and then turned it on so that I got a small flow of water. I waited for the water to get hot to be sure the hot water heater was working. Once it was hot, I left it running to keep demand in the line and then I went to the shower and turned the faucet on. When the water got hot I started feathering the control towards the cold side and soon I had warm water. So I think I'm right in that the sensor in the hot water heater was shutting the water heater off when the demand in the shower was lowered to a certain point when I was trying to adjust the water temp in the shower.

So now I can get warm water, but it means I have to leave the hot water running at another fixture in the house to create a false demand in the system so the hot water heater doesn't shut down. Is there a way to adjust the senor in the hot water heater so that it will stay on when I'm using the shower only, so I don't have to waste water by running another faucet when I want to take a shower?

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Rinnai R53 Natural Gas Tankless Water Heaters

It sounds like the Rinnai units are working correctly but you've got some plumbing problems.  Any tankless heater has a minimum water flow required to keep the burners going.  If the burners were going with very little water flowing through them to carry the heat away, the heat exchanger could overheat and fail.  The solution is generally to the electronic controls to set the desired temperature and then just use hot water.  Once you start mixing cold water in, you actually reduce the flow of hot water and the burners turn off.  If you are right near the cut off point, the burners will cycle on and off resulting in those very annoying hot-cold-hot-cold showers.  
The fact that you've got those very loud noises indicates some other sort of plumbing problem.  Hooking up two tankless units in series is much more complicated. In heavy draw situations, the second unit is asked to finish heating the water up to temperature when the first unit couldn't quite get it there. Now you're putting hot water into a heater and heating it more.  You have a lot more issues with fluctuating temperatures and pressures within the pipes which could conceivable cause these horrible noises.  Everything's got to be set up right to for things to function properly and it's easy to get something wrong.
From your description, it sounds like a better solution would have been to mount the two heaters in different places. e.g. One in the basement to serve basement and first floor faucets.  The other on the second or third floor to serve those two floors.  Since these units are direct vent (don't use inside air), they can even be mounted in a closed closet as long as the vent can get to the outside.  With this setup you avoid the complexities of a series installation and you also have a much shorter wait time (and therefore less waste) for the fixtures on the upper floors. 

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: BOSCH AQUASTAR 2400ES NATURAL GAS TANKLESS HOT WATER HEATER

Q. FA - Gas leakage error, gas valve circuit not closing properly
A.

  1. Disconnect power supply cord and check wire connections on gas valve and the two connectors on the control board.
  2. Flow water out of a hot water tap above the minimum activation point of .8GPM. Measure voltage at the gas valve wire connector. The connector should measure 24VDC between the left pair of wires and 24VDC between the right pair of wires when the unit is operating. If voltage is not correct, contact Bosch Water Heating for further instruction.
  3. Gas valve may be defective, contact Bosch Water Heating for further instruction.
Q. EA - No flame ionization detected with water flow
A.
  1. Verify that all manual gas shut off valves are open.
  2. Verify gas type (See Fig. 2 in installation manual) corresponds with the type of gas supplied to the heater.
  3. Reset error code and open a water tap to cycle the heater in an effort to purge air from gas line (especially on new installations). Cycling hot water tap on and off multiple times may be necessary. If heater still faults with EA error code, have a licensed gas technician properly purge air out of the gas line leading to the water heater.
  4. Verify the three yellow wire connections to the set of electrodes (underside of the burner assembly) are secure.
  5. Verify gas pressure meets specifications outlined in chapter 3.8. See Bulletin TWH-G2-03.
  6. Verify venting meets specifications outlined in chapter 3.6 of the installation manual. Improper venting may cause premature failure of the flame sensor rod.
  7. Observe inside the viewing window of the heat exchanger when a hot water tap is opened. Sparking should be followed by a steady blue flame. If not, Call Bosch Water Heating with observations. Readings from above gas pressure test will be required.
Q. C1 - Fan rotation too low on startup
A.
  1. Disconnect power supply cord. Check wire connections on back side of fan and the two large wire connectors on the control unit. Removal of lower access panel on control unit is necessary to access connectors.
  2. Verify that supply voltage is 120VAC and is properly grounded.
  3. Verify that venting meets specifications outlined in chapter 3.6 of the installation manual. Long vent lengths, venting with more than three elbows, blocked vent or combination venting may cause this failure. Verify backdraft flapper inside flue gas collector is not stuck shut.
  4. Check gas pressure. See Bulletin TWH-G2-03. Low gas pressure may cause the fan to change its speed to meet desired temperature.
  5. Possible defective control unit. Call Bosch Water Heating for further instructions.

Posted on Mar 15, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Paloma PTG 74PV N1 Tankless Water Heater - stops heating

Most likely problem is the remote control not the main board. A safe temporary fix is to unplug the heater from the 110 volt outlet, remove the two low voltage wires from the remote control and use a small wire nut to connect the two conductors together. Plug the heater back into the 110 outlet and the heater should work just fine. The default water temperature is about 118 degrees at the heater. Replace the remote control ASAP.

Posted on Aug 03, 2009

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: cannot get central heating working,for honeywell ST6400 programme

with y plan 3 connections on programmer HW on HW off CH on HW on to cylinder stat then HW call to Orange on Mvalve to power boiler and pump HW off to grey wire on Mvalve to close hot water CH to room stat common then heating call to white on Mvalve

Posted on Aug 17, 2009

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1 Answer

Yesterday the hot water went cold after 2 minutes into a shower.I checkAQed the hot water unit and noticed it seems to be damp around the base.it's an Aquamax 315 twin element electric hot water heate


Electric hot water heaters are particular to water levels and air pockets. Air pockets (low water levels) can cause the upper element to fail thereby reducing the overall recovery of hot water. Also if this is supplied by a well the incoming water temperature is lower than city water and also maybe adding to your problem. First thing I would check is the upper element. Start there and re-post with updates..

Sep 30, 2014 | Water Heaters

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On demand hot water heater gets cold for a short while during showers.


Check for crossover.
Bad single-handle faucet cartridge causes cold water to enter hot pipe, so hot never arrives and tankless does not run consistAntly
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html

Apr 13, 2013 | Bosch AquaStar 2400ES-NG

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Water turns cold very quickly


I had the EXACT same problem (installed my tankless last winter and worked fine, now this summer it fluctuates, have to turn the shower completely off and then on again to get any hot water and then it only lasts for a couple of minutes!) Argh - it is frustrating!

Here's what I found: the demand for hot water is lower during the summer (hot) months because the "cold" water coming in is already quite warm. You don't need as much hot water to make the shower temp comfortable. SO, my tankless was shutting off due to low flow demand. I've removed the flow restrictor from my shower head and it helped alot but didn't completely solve the prob. Next step is what has been recommended to me by several people but is much more expensive - change the pressure valve on your shower to a temperature valve. Or just wait til winter and it should work ok again :)

Jul 06, 2010 | Bosch & Tankless LP Hot Water Heater

1 Answer

Heats up the rapidly decreases within in minutes.


Problem new or old? How long you have unit? Sounds like not enough flow to keep burner on. Tankless need at least .6 gpm to keep hot water flowing or else the burner fires then shuts fires then shuts and you get a sandwich effect...hot cold hot cold. If you have new diverter valve in shower -vs- old two handle type try turning hot water ALL the way ON and see if hot stays hot. If it does stay hot then slowly adjust to cool and see if you maintain a good MIX for proper temp. If it goes cold again try this......LOWER control pad setting to a comfortable 105 degrees (ladies) 100 degrees(men) and turn shower valve all the way to HOT. See if your temp remains consistant now and if it does then problem solved. Tankless mindset...set temp on control pad and stop trying to MIX at shower valve. Thats how these things work. Thats why I install a control pad in each bath and one in the kitchen for adjusting ash temp during dishwasher on time. ditto for wash machine. You should never need to turn on cold water if your unit is set to proper temp at controller. Hope this helps

May 17, 2010 | Rheem Tankless Hot Water Heater...

1 Answer

Tankless on demand water heater.


Tankless water heaters normally take a little longer than a regular heater to provide hot water because they have to start and get warmed up. I'm guessing the heater uses a pilot light and that the short amount of hot water when you turn on the tap is hot because when the water is sitting still in the heater the heat from the pilot light is enough to get it hot. The tub faucet will get hot a lot faster than the shower because it lets a lot more water through and empties out the pipes faster than the shower. You could probably speed things up by letting the tub faucet run on completely hot for like 10-15 seconds and then turning on the shower.

Oct 24, 2009 | RTO Takagi Jr. TK-JR-N Tankless Water...

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Warm water only


You can eliminate the shower control knob possibility by turning on your hot water anywhere else in the house. If you get hot water in other places, then it could be the knob causing it. A substantial lime buildup in the tank can also cause poor heat transfer from the elements to the water.

Sep 16, 2009 | Rheem 40 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

2 Answers

Bosch AquaStar 125b ng suddenly goes cold during shower


Does it happen to any other fixture? If not, it's most likely your shower valve and not heater.

Sep 01, 2009 | Bosch AquaStar 2400ES-NG

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