Question about Mackie HD1801 Powered Subwoofer (1600 Watts 1x18 in)

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Power supply failure...how to rectify?? - Mackie HD1801 Powered Subwoofer (1600 Watts 1x18 in)

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Troubleshoot and repair... This MIGHT be schematic or close to the amp part:

http://elektrotanya.com/mackie_srs1500_active_subwoofer.rar/download.html

Scroll down to "Get Manual" at the web page and click on it to download. The files are compressed but you can use the free decompressor to extract or view them.

Posted on May 26, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/direct-current/chpt-14/electromagnetic-induction/
The AC power changes the magnetic field and may be being picked up in your amplified leads .

Or the DC voltage in your amps power supply is not filtering the power after it rectifies the AC power .A really big capacitor across the dc voltage output from the rectifier should filter any AC out.
https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/experiments/chpt-5/rectifier-filter-circuit/

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Here you go:

http://elektrotanya.com/yamaha_stagepas_300.pdf/download.html

Scroll down to "Get manual" on the webpage and click to download. IGNORE other download links. This is a class D amplifier and the switching power supplies run directly off the power line so as a qualified technician I am sure you know to use an isolation transformer while working on this for personal safety. I am GOING to make an educated guess at the problem... The circuitry has a surge limiting precharge for the input power filter with a thermistor that when power is almost up and circuits are balanced the thermistor is shorted out by a relay so that the high currents can be handled... I suspect that the thermistor has gone bad... now that can be due to a short in the rectifier filter combination OR even a failure in the switching power supply or lastly, just a part failure of the thermistor. Using an isolation transformer, ALSO put a 100 watt incandescent lamp in serie with the power input cord to act as a resetable fuse and current limiter while working on this. Let me know how it goes...

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Here is a schematic close to your unit:

http://elektrotanya.com/behringer_xenyx_1622fx.pdf/download.html

Scroll down to "get manual" and click to download. Ignore other download links.

The phantom power is a separate rectifier and regulator. See page 11 of the download service manual for the power supply. Be careful when working on line operated switching supplies. I suspect you will find one of the other supplies is dead. If the phantom is OK, then the switcher is working and one of the rectifier/filter/regulators is bad. Check if an electrolytic cap is shorted.

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Transformers RARELY fail. It is likely that either one side of the amplifier has shorted or there is a failure in the rectifier/filter circuit of the power supply. Take it for repair unless you are adept at electronic repair. Do NOT continue to replace the fuse as you MAY cause futher damage. Use a 25 or 40 watt lamp in series with your power cord to limit current while troubleshooting.

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There is likely one of three problems:

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Hello. I am a old tech, so struggle a little bit with this unit. It appears that the 12 volt power relay is not getting any signal, thus the 110 is not connected to the first set of power sections. It...


The relay shorts out two power resistors that limit the input power surge. The circuit is complex a bit. An off-line small switching power supply fires up and "heats up" the rest of the circuit for the main power switcher. I have repaired about four of these. Usually a failure due to arcing in the power amp section fries three transistors there and often a Zener diode. This then wipes out the main +/- 70 volt supply. The two IGBT's are usually blown including the four driver traansistors and the switching regulator chip and another small surface mounted transistor and one or both speedup surface mounted 1N4148's. IF THE fuse had been replaced to try again, often the two power resistors (sand coated ceramic) that ar 10 Watt either 10 or 20 ohms will be blown. Some of the hardest thing is to get the heatsinks loose with the IGBT's. When restarting the supply AFTER repair, one puts about 100 Watt lamp bulb in series with the 120 power input to act as a limiting fuse. You will NOT get far with this without a schematic. You can contact me by direct email fredy2 @ aol.com

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7815 and 7915 plus and minus regulators specifically. Diodes fr the 15 supplies are 1N4001 but you can use 1N4007 or anything in between.

Big power rectifiers are 2504's... which are probably 25 amp 400 volt modules.

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I have a KRK Rokit Powered 5 studio monitor and the fuse blew out, so i replace the fuse with the spare they provide and ''bam'' blows again as soon as i turn on the monitor. i have had these for about 4...


Look for a failure in the power supply section. You will need electronic experience or someone who has that.

If the fuse is glass and blows silvery inside thia means a direct short inside. SUSPECT the input rectifier or filter capacitor(s).

Do testing with a 100 watt light bulb in series with the hot side of the power cord to avoid blowing fuses.

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Not working@ full pwr.I just got a new power supply I plugged it in the wall , in a short time the pwr supply got hot.. is there a way to reset it?


Sounds like you got an incorrect power supply OR the SR16 has a failure creating too much load.

The power supply should be a 9VAC at 1 amp (1000 ma)

The power supply MAY get warm to the touch but should not get real hot.

Without the SR16 pluged onto the power supply it should barely get warm. If the SR16 doesn't work, then it probably has an internal failure... LIKELY the internal rectifier filter combination.

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