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How do i get the master cylinder to move back on my 1990 holden jackaroo too fit new rear brake pads?

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  • Master
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To depress the caliper you need a caliper tool. Insert the tool, release the bleeder valve, turn knob on caliper tool, depressing caliper. Tighten bleeder valver to prevent air fron entering the line. Proceed to install new pads.

Posted on May 27, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a 23 t bucket and i cant get a brake pedal.when i bought it had very little brake so i replaced rear shoes and cylinders,front pads and calipers,all new lines and the master cylinder


Once you have bled the air from the brake lines,clamp off the front brake hoses carefully.Does the pedal feel better now?
Then the pad /caliper fit is allowing too much play.Is the pedal the same?Then clamp the rear hose and try the pedal.Is it fine with the rear hose clamped?If so we now know the problem is at the rear brakes.One common low pedal rear brake cause is brake shoes that do not fit the drums.Remove the drums and look at the shoes,are they showing contact wear fully or just in the middle of the shoe?Remove a shoe and place it in the drum.Can you rock the shoe against the drum surface?Once drums have been resurfaced,the shoes will not fit fully against the drum allowing the shoe the flex when applying pressure to it and this can easily create a low soft brake pedal. Of course rear brake adjustment must be correct once brake shoe contact is correct.To correct brake shoe contact,have your shoes re arc-ed to fit resurfaced drums or install new drums.Don't overlook brake master cyl /brake pedal push rod adjustment too.

Jun 24, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Aloha! My 1990 C-1500 454 SS rear brakes locked up and severely overheated. I did a recent 4-wheel overhaul; new wheel cylinders, hardware, shoes and drums. I did not replace the master and bleeding t


is ther a rear brake equaliser on the rear axle? this is usually spring operated that pulls up on the rear brake limiter depending on load in vehicle may be stuck in the vehicle loaded position when the vehicle isnt carrying much weight worth a look , just jack up rear end and look for spring device centre of rear axle attached to a device with the brake lines entering/exiting if there get vehicle as high as safe to do then put blocks under rear wheels then slowly lower jack and look to see if the spring device moves down with the vehicle if not this could be the problem as is exerting pressure to rear brakes so causing them to over heat keep me posted

May 17, 2014 | 1990 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

How do i replace rear brake pads on my 2002 hd fxdwg


After servicing the brakes in any way and before moving the motorcycle always pump the brakes to build brake system pressure and move the pistons and pads out against the brake rotor.

First remove the rear master cylinder reservoir cap and check the fluid level because as the pistons are pushed back into the caliper the fluid level will rise and you do not want it to overflow the reservoir and spill out and to avoid this you must remove sufficient fluid.
Second, loosen, but do not remove, both pad pins with a 12 point .025 inch socket wrench.
Thirdly pry the inside pad back using steady pressure and a sturdy scraper or large screw driver or similar suitable tool, prying between the pad and the brake disc in order to push the caliper pistons back into their bores.
Fourthly, once the pistons have been fully retracted into their bores, pull the pad pins out part way only until the inside pads drop free.Do not completely pull the pad pins out from the caliper at this time because completely removing the pad pins at this time will cause you unnecessary difficulty during re-assembly. ALSO carefully note and remember each pad's original orientation for so you can put the new pads into the correct position and orientation in the caliper. Note that the front left, and the front right (if the front right is present) and all of the rear brake calipers use the same exact brake pad set. Install the pad with two tabs on the inboard side of the rear caliper.
Fifthly install the new inside brake pad using the same orientation as the pad previously removed (with the curved portion of the pad facing the rear of the motorcycle.
Sixthly install the pad pins until the pins snap into place with an audible click but do not fully tighten them at this time.
Next pump the brake pedal lever to move the inside pistons out until they contact the inside brake pads and then pry the outside pad back to push the caliper pistons back into their bores and verify that the inside pads have been captured between the brake disc and the pistons. At this point you can completely remove the pad pins to free the outside brake pad. Again note the pad's original orientation for replacement purpose and orientation
.While the pad pins are out inspect them for grooving and wear and measure the pin diameter in an unworn area, and then in the area of any grooving or wear, and if wear is more than 0.015 in. (0.38mm), replace both pins.
THEN install the new outside brake pad using the same orientation as the pad previously removed and if the inside pad moved during the previous step, reinstall it with the curved portion of the pad facing the rear of motorcycle.
THEN install both pad pins through holes in the inner and outer brake pads and tighten them to 180-200 in-lbs which is (20.3-22.6 Nm).
THEN pump the brake pedal to move the pistons out until they contact both of the brake pads and verify the correct piston location against the pads.
THEN check the brake fluid level in master cylinder and fill it up to the correct level if necessary using ONLY D.O.T. 5 SILICONE BRAKE, install the master cylinder reservoir cap and tighten the reservoir cap screws to 6-8
in-lbswhich is (0.7-0.9 Nm).
WHEN the bike is completely back together test the brakes at low speed in a safe area and also confirm that the brake light works properly and if the brakes feel at all spongy bleed them properly until a hard not spongy brake pedal is obtained. AND avoid making hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km) to allow the new pads to condition to the brake rotors.

May 10, 2014 | Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide...

1 Answer

How do i change rear brakes pads on a 2002 hd fxdwg ?


DO NOT REMOVE THE WHEEL AND DO NOT SPLIT THE CALIPER.

After servicing the brakes in any way and before moving the motorcycle always pump the brakes to build brake system pressure and move the pistons and pads out against the brake rotor.

First remove the rear master cylinder reservoir cap and check the fluid level because as the pistons are pushed back into the caliper the fluid level will rise and you do not want it to overflow the reservoir and spill out and to avoid this you must remove sufficient fluid.
Second, loosen, but do not remove, both pad pins with a 12 point .025 inch socket wrench.
Thirdly pry the inside pad back using steady pressure and a sturdy scraper or large screw driver or similar suitable tool, prying between the pad and the brake disc in order to push the caliper pistons back into their bores.
Fourthly, once the pistons have been fully retracted into their bores, pull the pad pins out part way only until the inside pads drop free.Do not completely pull the pad pins out from the caliper at this time because completely removing the pad pins at this time will cause you unnecessary difficulty during re-assembly. ALSO carefully note and remember each pad's original orientation for so you can put the new pads into the correct position and orientation in the caliper. Note that the front left, and the front right (if the front right is present) and all of the rear brake calipers use the same exact brake pad set. Install the pad with two tabs on the inboard side of the rear caliper.
Fifthly install the new inside brake pad using the same orientation as the pad previously removed (with the curved portion of the pad facing the rear of the motorcycle.
Sixthly install the pad pins until the pins snap into place with an audible click but do not fully tighten them at this time.
Next pump the brake pedal lever to move the inside pistons out until they contact the inside brake pads and then pry the outside pad back to push the caliper pistons back into their bores and verify that the inside pads have been captured between the brake disc and the pistons. At this point you can completely remove the pad pins to free the outside brake pad. Again note the pad's original orientation for replacement purpose and orientation
.While the pad pins are out inspect them for grooving and wear and measure the pin diameter in an unworn area, and then in the area of any grooving or wear, and if wear is more than 0.015 in. (0.38mm), replace both pins.
THEN install the new outside brake pad using the same orientation as the pad previously removed and if the inside pad moved during the previous step, reinstall it with the curved portion of the pad facing the rear of motorcycle.
THEN install both pad pins through holes in the inner and outer brake pads and tighten them to 180-200 in-lbs which is (20.3-22.6 Nm).
THEN pump the brake pedal to move the pistons out until they contact both of the brake pads and verify the correct piston location against the pads.
THEN check the brake fluid level in master cylinder and fill it up to the correct level if necessary using ONLY D.O.T. 5 SILICONE BRAKE, install the master cylinder reservoir cap and tighten the reservoir cap screws to 6-8
in-lbswhich is (0.7-0.9 Nm).
WHEN the bike is completely back together test the brakes at low speed in a safe area and also confirm that the brake light works properly and if the brakes feel at all spongy bleed them properly until a hard not spongy brake pedal is obtained. AND avoid making hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km) to allow the new pads to condition to the brake rotors.

May 10, 2014 | Harley Davidson Motorcycles

1 Answer

2001 Silverado 2500 HD Why Rear brakes don't work after I installed new hydro-boost power booster, master cylinder, calipers, and pads. I bled master cylinder before installing, and brakes beginn


Hello Patricia,

Have you checked the master brake cylinder reservoir for brake fluid loss?

I don't suspect the master cylinder as you have replaced it... but am more suspect of a leaking brake line or fitting which should have
been discovered when you had the system bled.

The only time I ever had a rear brake problem with a 2500 series Chevrolet was due to seized rear brake caliper guide pins...as your calipers are also new that is not your problem.

If your brake pedal feels spongy and travels to the floor board you have air in the system, a brake fluid leak or a failure in the power steering system, such as a broken hose, broken power steering pump drive belt, or failed pump, would result in a loss of pressure to both the hydro-boost and steering.

Find more information here:

. Hydro Boost Power Assist Systems Operation Diagnosis and Repair

Jul 23, 2017 | 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

1 Answer

Soft brake pedal on 1990 GMC Sierra. Replaced master cylinder, rear shoes are almost new, front pads are good.


if master replaced sounds like air still in lines rebleed the brake lines start with passenger rear than driver rear -pass front -than driver front last..before bleeding check rear brake shoes are adjusted correctly

Aug 10, 2011 | 1990 GMC Sierra

2 Answers

Piston will not go into caliper to allow for new pads


Try taking the cap off of the master cylinder. This will allow the fluid from the system to move back up the line and the piston to depress.

Mar 05, 2010 | 2001 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

3 Answers

I have a slow brake fluid loss. I think it may from the master cylinder. Are there any seals in the lines that go into the master cylinder unit.


no they are inverted flare fittings no seals check all lines and calipers/wheel cylinders if all are dry remove the vacuum hose from the booster if there is brake fluid in the hose the master cylinder is bad

Sep 24, 2009 | 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe

1 Answer

Front Rotoe removal 1990 Toyota 3Runner


Take off the disk pad, release the pressure.
1. Loss the brake fluid small fitting on the cylinder, then use one hand slowly loss the fitting and use another hand with flat screw driver pressure the brake pad toward the piston of the cylinder AT THE SAME TIME , as soon as you release the pad a little bit, close the fitting right away, DO NOT LET THE AIR GET INTO YOUR BRAKE LINE. After you release the pad, TIGHT the fitting.

2. Take off two screws behind the cylinder which connected to the body and remove the cylinder first and then take off the rotor.

3. When you put back, don’t touch the fitting, after you finish it, check everything is O.K. then start the car, pump the brake several times, until you feel the brake is normal.


For your safety, use emergency brake and also put something behind your rear wheel to completely stable the car.

Good luck, hope this can help you.
Frank

May 24, 2008 | 1990 Toyota 4Runner

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