Question about David White 48 3175 1 Autolaser 3175 1 Laser

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My David White 3175 powers up but dose not level up. You can clearly see the cone on top is leaned all the way one way and eventually it says Y axis slope is to steep. It did come on and work one time for me since. Is there anything I can do? Thanks Scott.

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The unit I have which is a different brand is pendulous, that is, it is suspended with bearings and has a counterweight which brings the axis vertical by gravity. If the bearing has been damaged by dropping, that is probably fatal and will have to go to the shop for repair. Make sure the base plate is leveled within the 5 degree spec limit for self leveling to take place.

Posted on May 28, 2011

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1 Answer

How to fix crooked cross hairs on David White transit level


don't believe that is a consumer fix . has to be sent in to them

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DW079 CALIBRATION


Here is how you get your laser into adjustment modeY axis; Power and scan key at same time, unit then will tip from Y1 to Y2, then recenter. use up and down arrows to bring laser into adjustment. Let unit stabilize for 30 seconds, press scan key, you will get a continuos beep, now at same time press down arrow key. This will store your new calibration.To get X axis into adjustment mode power on and up arrow at same time, and for Z axis type laser onto Z axis and use adjustment procedure for Y axis. Saving your calibrations is the same as in Y axis. Hope this helps you

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I can't get my david white matrix 54 to shoot a beam in any direction. The lights on top just flasah.


This sounds like it is out of level. Self leveling lasers are only self leveling to a point. If they go past that they can not compensate and generally flash to let you know.

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1 Answer

How to adjust a David White transit level


I just assisted a friend "re-calibrate" his D.W. L6-20 Level Transit. Follow the following steps.
1. Set up the tripod & transit in the garage. Get the platform with the protractor, close to level.
2. Position the telescope at "0". The telescope should be over 2 of the adjusting screws.
3. Adjust the screws to get the top bubble close to level. Adjust with a screwdriver the spring loaded screw to get the bubble closer to center.
4. Rotate the scope 180 degrees. Note the difference in the bubble position. Split the difference from the first bubble location by adjusting the same top screw.
5. Rotate back to 0. Adjust the same top screw to split the difference in bubble position.
6. Rotate back to 180 degrees. The bubble should be off by the same amount. Adjust the 2 bottom screw to place the level in the center.
7. Rotate back to 0. The bubble should not move.
8. Rotate to 90 degrees and adjust the 2 bottom screws to place the bubble in the center.
9. Rotate to 270 degrees. The bubble should be centered.
10. From this point on, all you need to do is place the level on the tripod and position it over your reference point with a plumb bob. Adjust the bottom 2 screws at 0 and again at 90. The level is set to use.

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2 Answers

I have the same problem


Most probably defrost thermostat is defective. Unit never goes into defrost, ice forms on coil and in floor of freezer. After defrosting may work OK for a week or two but gradually gets warmer because ice is blocking ports where cool air gets to refrig. May also have water in refrig box. Can also be caused by defective defrost timer. This can also be caused by the drain hole being blocked by ice. You MUST remove all ice in drain under freezer coil. Use turkey baster to squirt hot water into hole and use hairdryer to defrost.

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1 Answer

Fishfinder 400c?


Hi there.

Ok in WIDE beam mode the cone extends out 45 degrees from the transducer. This covers a fair area, but is best used only in shallow waters as the beam may not have enough power to penetrate deeper waters effectively. 30ft should be fine for WIDE mode however. Using a bit of trigonometry, the beam would extend to a diameter of 60 feet from the center point of the transducer on the sea/river floor.

The beam is a direct beam... It is not a rotational beam from the transducer... i.e. it does not rotate like a radar beam but shoots downward in the cone arc constantly. Imagine a torch being turned on and off very rapidly... The light shoots straight out from the torch in its own cone shape. This is essentially what the transducer does when it shoots out a signal every millisecond or so.

The image you see on the screen is the result of the hole cone of signals, however, the strongest sonar returns occur near the center of the beam. Weaker returns are shown which are located towards the outer edges of the sonar cone where the signal power is less. So if a fish passes right on the edge of the beam, it will only show up as maybe 1 pixel on the sounder screen as it is a weak return on the edge of the sonar cone, whereas if that fish passes under the center of the beam, it will show a larger, more continuous or arched shaped return as the fish moves from the outside of the beam, through the center of the beam, and out to the other edge of the beam under the boat.

Regarding the flasher... I would advise not to use this. It does work by showing a continuous top and bottom reading which displays as constant flashes around the circle readout. Anything it picks up in the beam will show as flashes in between the top and bottom readings. Using the display is far better and with practice allows you to better identify fish and bottom structure readings. Flashers were earlier forms of sonar readouts. Some older folk still like them but I believe the normal display is better for finding and identifying fish and can show structure shape as well (the flasher mode really cannot).

Hope that helps!

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Jun 02, 2009 | Garmin Fishfinder 400c With Dual Beam...

2 Answers

I need to calibrate rotary laser DW073


Sounds like you figured this out on your own. I calibrate my own DW073 regularly without any fancy gadgets. I use the calibration check procedure in which the unit is placed about midway between fixed objects 100' apart.

These have a front and back and sides, so first you mark where the laser hits facing front to back at your targets. Then turn it 180 deg. relevel and resite. If the difference between the new and old marks is not the same then I turn the adjuster to halve the inconsistency and once that is accomplished, tweek the adjusting screw at the end of the level vial. (Because if you have adjusted more than the tiniest bit, the bubble will no longer display as level. So having established level, or closer to it, the adjustment here is actually to bring the relevant bubble vial back to level rather than assume they are level and adjust the physical beam mechanism (unlike the old physical sight levels where you adjusted the actual optics -- a little more like adjusting a rifle scope). Then you repeat for the side to side vial.

Anyway sounds like you are set so I posted this for anyone who happens to find this thread and is looking to field calibrate their DW073, e.g. don't have time or money to get it done in some shop.

I also wanted to post an add on question. Did you figure out how to adjust the "cone error", i.e. the accuracy of alignment of the twin lasers. They appear to have allen set screws that lock their adjustment, and maybe they are then reaimed by using a slotted screwdriver on the brass ring surrounding the laser. Maybe these are made eccentrically or slightly beveled so turning the laser reaims.

So far, my cone has stayed within the specs of 3/32" at 25' in the manual. But I'm seeing two lines at maybe 150' out. Probably that is close enough for gvmt. work, and I may find the adjusment so sensitive that I can't really get it any closer. But I'd at least be interested to know the method for adjusting the cone error.

Thanks,

Brian

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