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Hi, John if you have changed your engine size, fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve, and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" you're not getting enough fuel.
1. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. A wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. 95 zx6r carb tuning Help please ZZR600 Carb balancing explained Kawasaki ZZR600 ZZ R600 1990 2000 Service Repair Manual Download Manuals... $15 OEM Parts for Kawasaki http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki
Side of the carb had an oval area. They are normally factory tuned so you will need a pack an wrench to make any adjustments. Or you will have to use a hacksaw or dremmel tool to cut slots for a flat head screwdriver
screw both screws in until they just come to a stop. One screw should have the letter H and the other screw should have the letter L stamped on the carburetor next to each screw. Once you have both screws turned in until they stop. It doesn't matter which one you back out first. If you do the H one first then turn it out approx 1 1/8 of a turn, the the L screw back that out approx 3/4 turn. Those are the initial factory setting. Now you have to fine tune from there. To finish fine tuning the trimmer work on the L screw until it idles smoothly and then set the idle screw to a speed when the head just starts to want to turn over. Once that's done work on the H screw by reving it up and keep it full throttle while you adjust the H screw in or out until you fine that nice high speed. then slack of the throttle and see if it still idles, if it does now give it a quick throttle up to see if the response from low to high is a smooth transition. If it bogs on the quick throttle then you need to open the L screw a small bit more and re adjust the idle screw. Good luck
Sounds like a tuning issue and carb problem. Before you go spending money on carbs or carb kits and start stripping down the carb, try this first. *Unscew both H and L tuning screws ( not all the way out but back them off) *Pull over until the engine fires up, it should run for a second and cut out. *Screw both the H & L all the way back in. *Then reset the carb to standard settings. *Unscrew the H tuning screw 3/4 of a full turn. *Unscrew the L tuning screw 1 full turn.
This should be the standard settings.
Start saw as normal and see if its any better. Failing that your probably looking at cleaning the carb or replacing diaphrams.
Most carburetors on the 2 stroke trimmers are all the same. They are of the diaphragm type. I would like to send you to a tutorial/information tuning page for this type of carburetor. If you do choose to adjust it yourself, pay real close attention to the before and after settings on the screws you turn. These carbs are extemely sensitive and respond likewise. I use an automotive type plastic wire connector lightly tapped down onto the unconventional heads of the L and H mixture screws to turn them. The plastic on the connector will expand a little and grip the screw head to allow you to turn it without any damage to the screw. Please view this tuning guide. http://www.zamacarb.com/tipspage.html
turn both hi and low set screws in on side of carb and then back them both out 1 1/2 turns. This is called the initial adjustment and you can fine tune it from there if needed, but only turn the screws about 1/8 of a turn at a time.
This will generally get you close: 1.5 turns for both the "H' and the "L" needle screws - adjust from there.
Note: Screw all the way in until they stop (do not over tighten), back off by counting the turns. Most trimmers will run at about 1.5 turns and adjusting from there. Consult your manual for more specifics.