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Radio Shack top of the line digital multimeter. 1/2 amp fuse blew now ohmeter function does not work. Voltage readings and capitance readings are ok. Meter is several years old and it's product lists it as Cat # 22-801

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5 Suggested Answers

SOURCE: amp keeps blowing fuse

I have this same problem. You have blown the internal amp. I have had 2 of these do the same thing. There is nothing you can do but report it to infinity and try to get the unit replaced.

Posted on Feb 08, 2007

PyroMan6x9x9
  • 150 Answers

SOURCE: Radio Shack Digital Answering Machine Cat #43 3825

No problem, follow the below link for your manual. http://support.radioshack.com/support_phones/doc72/72809.pdf Good Luck L8R

Posted on Sep 17, 2007

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: cusinert blender

I had the same problem and I manaed to fix my Cuisinart SmartPower Duet blender. There are two thermal fuses, one tape attached to each stator winding. Both of mine were blown.

In addition, when the fuses blew, it must have spiked the triac. I had to replace mine. It's the black 3-legged transistor looking device with a small metal heatsink attached to it. This gizmo directly throttles the power to the motor under control of the microprocessor. There are some guides on the internet on how to test it.

Also, the clutch was very hard to remove and needs to be removed to more easily replace the thermal fuses. I clamped down the end of the motor shaft to a bench vise real hard and then I used a 7/8-inch open-end wrench to wedge into the clutch prongs which made it much easier to apply torque. Remember that its screw threads are reversed from normal screws so that it does not unscrew during operation. You have to turn it counter-clockwise to unthread it.

Hope that helps!

-Vince

Posted on Oct 01, 2008

dr_greg
  • 192 Answers

SOURCE: how to change the radio fuse on a 2001 honda accord

look under the cover.. white label should say radio back up 15 amp

Posted on Apr 05, 2009

  • 153 Answers

SOURCE: Model CAT NO 65-865; reads data error

well if it survives 20 years and water gamaging then it has a hope to b repaied but my suggestion is to u that u should replace it.

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

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Hello
Never put any fuse in it and switch ON. It has some short with internal circuit, and should be repaired before installing a new fuse. The fuse use is as a protection device to protect the other circuit parts from further damage. If you will put an other fuse, and switch it ON again, you are making things more worse than present. Find out the reason for buring out fuse. If you can do it by yourself. Otherwise get it repaired by any experienced service personal. Never make it irreparable. OK.

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I use the ohmmeter function on my digital multimeter (DMM). You can get a basic DMM from Sears or Radio Shack for about $30.

First, (safety check) measure the voltage across the terminals unless you know there is no power in the circuit, or better yet, disconnect the resistor so other components don't give you a false reading. Attempting to read the value of a resistor in a live circuit will give you a meaningless number at best, and may severely damage your meter at worst. It could also damage other parts in the circuit.

Now switch your meter to the lowest ? range (Greek capital Omega, for Ohm) greater than the expected value of the resistor. Connect one test lead to each end of the resistor. The number you read should be the expected value plus or minus the tolerance (e. g., a 100 ? 5% resistor should read somewhere between 95.0 - 105.0 on the 200 ? range.). A bad resistor will usually show up as 1___ (over-range) because it will be burned out and open. Some very old carbon composition resistors will short (read much less than 1 ?) when they fail.

Often, a visual inspection will identify a bad resistor - if you can see that it's burned and broken, it's bad and further testing is unnecessary. The ohmmeter is for all the other cases.

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1 Answer

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I assume a "DM-350a" is some kind of a digital multimeter. I Googled and found it might be a "A.W. Sperry DM350A 5 Function 17 Range Digital Multimeter" and looking at the ranges available on that meter, you can't really thest the battery "under load" the only reasonable way to test small batteries. the DC current only goes up to 200 milli amperes. A "C" or "D" size flashlight battery puts out 1 to 4 amps depending on conditions. That's 5 to 20 times the current readable by that meter. The volts on one of those batteries is probably 1.6 volts to 1.3 volts etc. If you live in the United States, I'd say go to Radio Shack and spend $5 to $15 and buy a battery tester like "Enercell Analog 9-Range Battery Checker, $14.99, Model 22-156, catalog # 22-156"
Then you and anyone in your family can read the instructions and test 8 or 9 different type batteries. Battery types: 1.5V button-cells, "AAA"/"N"/"AA"/"C"/"D", 6V, 9V, 12V, 15V and 22.5V..
This is not supposed to be an advertizement, and I have no interest in RadioShack,... but it's supposed to be instructional.

Small price, Good instruction to anyone who can read, and if anyone forgets, they can re-read. Testing a lot of batteries in a sitting goes very fast with these.

Differently, with the sperry, or any voltmeter, you'd have to select a resistor small enough to draw the current, and large enough not to overheat or burn, connect it and measure the loaded voltage drop, compare the voltage and current of the loaded battery, and compare it to that of a new battery, and a battery you might consider too weak for your application.. Voltage equals amps times resistance, and power equals amps squared times resistance... Really, buy a battery tester.
Regards --- GooseBay_Camper

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1 Answer

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It sure sounds like a short in the left signal circuit. I can't say where the wires are routed but you may have one with failed insulation or pinched under some hardware.
You could avoid repeated fuse replacement if you buy a cheap digital multimeter from Radio Shack (if you are in the US) or alternately, from an auto parts store. One adequate for this would be under $20 US. Some have a continuity checker that sounds a 'chime' that stops when the resistance level rises a bit. Since the meter could be damaged if the short clears, it would be smart to disconnect the negative side (ground) of the battery. Putting the probes across the fuse contact will simulate the fuse for this checking but it will not let your signals function. I would punch the probes into the fuse holder, put on the left turn signal and start removing bulbs and checking the routing of the wiring. When the chime stops, you have found the culprit. 

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1 Answer

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