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The source won't clear on the screen and stays visible while watching

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On the remote you should have a button labeled display. Hope this helps.

Posted on May 25, 2011

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Philips plasma Model #PF7320A/37 Turned it off last night. Now have a blinking red light. First it blinked a steady 1 blink, later 3 blinks and a pause... Now it's blinking 7 times and a pause. ...


There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom (look for discoloration of the circuit board around the base of the capacitor) need to be replaced.
If you repeatedly turn it off and on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the unit will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for some time and then try again.

If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, read the rest of this solution and watch the videos.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and/or inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are SURE it's only doing supply output ripple filtering,
and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

Backlight related video here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6XoF6QZ1dmw&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors, amplifiers, computer power supplies and motherboards, and other electronic equipment.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.
A great parts source is Digi-Key, and you can order the parts online at www.digikey.com
They typically cost under a dollar a piece plus a flat shipping rate.
The parts usually arrive one business day later.
If you watch the third video, you will see that even someone with no soldering experience can perform these repairs as demonstrated by the woman in the video.

Aug 31, 2011 | Philips 27PT5441 27" TV

1 Answer

When I turn my tv on, the picture and sound will be clear for about 2 or 3 seconds, then the screen will go black, but the sound is still clear. The screen stays black for about 5 or 6 seconds and the...


There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both. In your case, it could be either.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom (look for discoloration of the circuit board around the base of the capacitor) need to be replaced.
If you repeatedly turn it off and on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the unit will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for some time and then try again.

If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, read the rest of this solution and watch the videos.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and/or inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are SURE it's only doing supply output ripple filtering,
and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

Backlight related video here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6XoF6QZ1dmw&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors, amplifiers, computer power supplies and motherboards, and other electronic equipment.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.
A great parts source is Digi-Key, and you can order the parts online at www.digikey.com
They typically cost under a dollar a piece plus a flat shipping rate.
The parts usually arrive one business day later.
If you watch the third video, you will see that even someone with no soldering experience can perform these repairs as demonstrated by the woman in the video.

Jul 27, 2011 | Samsung LA40A450 40 in. LCD TV

1 Answer

I have an Akai PDP5016H television recently it will not power on , I have to push power button several times before it comes on , no picture and no sound , Occasional lly it will stay on with the AKAI ...


There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom need to be replaced, and in your case you may need to look very closely. Caps that go in these situations are often grouped in pairs or fours.
If you repeatedly turn it off and on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the TV will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for some time and then try again.

If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, read the rest of this solution and watch the videos.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are positive it's only doing ripple filtering, and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.

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1 Answer

I have a Nixon LowDown Tide Watch and the screen is staying blank, almost as though it is in a battery saver mode unitl i press any button and its display turns on for 3 seconds or so then goes back to...


Hey, this just happened to my nixon watch (I have the nixon housing - same setup as the lowdown) and what you have to do is simply hold in the light display button for about 3 seconds and the display won't disappear after the light times out.

hope this helps :)

Apr 09, 2011 | Nixon Lodown Tide watch

1 Answer

Cursor moves spoardically across screen


# Check that the Wii sensor bar is on or below the centre of the TV,and there is no obstruction with clear line of view between it and the Wiimote
# Go in Wii settings and check there are only 2 dots visible. If yes, crank up the Sensor bar sensitivity to 5 with 2 dots still visible, else adjust it till the 2 dots become stable at whichever sensitivity
# If there are more than 2 dots, there is some IR source in the rooms which is disturbing the wireless connection between the Wiimote and the sensor bar, so that source has to be removed from the room

Nothing else works, then resync the remote. Remove the batteries, wait couple of inutes, reinsert, and resync through the 2 red buttons.


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